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guitar_player

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Everything posted by guitar_player

  1. Just glue a strip in shouldn't be a problem at all. I couldn't imagine having to rout truss rods at school. I was disrupting grade 8 kids today too using the spindle and edge sander on my neck through bass. Hopefully the last time I have to do that.
  2. I tried a bunch and finally bit the bullet and got the Stew Mac ones. Love 'em. Have you tried them on stainless steel frets. I consider most of their stuff overpriced but I might get them if they would cut stainless steel.
  3. I use one's like these http://www.wihatools.com/300seri/326_EndCutters.htm I ground it down to cut closer. I need to find something that will cut stainless steel frets though I kinda messed mine up doing that.
  4. Only the acoustic one they have a 2 way guitar and a 2 way bass one too just not gotoh.
  5. This is what I use, my dad is a cabinetmaker and uses it at work all the time. It's the best I've used. http://www.tapesolutionsinc.com/intertape-592.html
  6. I'd get rougher sandpaper, a router with a bit with the bearing on top for template routing, mdf or something nice and flat for the templates in my experience no less than 3/8" thick, doublestick tape (I go through about a half roll per guitar weather for holding on templates small sanding blocks or whatever very useful).
  7. How does everyone here shape their necks? I usually use a combination of microplane rasps, orbital disk sander, spokeshave and rough sandpaper. I have trouble keeping the back straight, some of my necks are really good some not so much and I redo them. I found a jig to rough shape it with a router and that should solve the problem but it seems kind of confusing to make and I'd rather do it by hand. Any suggestions or anything?
  8. I wold get a longer screw but you could also glue in a small piece of wood leaving enough room for the wire to get through.
  9. Their customer service is pretty good, I'd email them about it I think they responded next day whenever I had to email them.
  10. Would you need a zero fret with ebony? I would like to try an ebony nut, my dad got me some pieces of ebony I could make a bunch out of if it works if not I'll just use corian like usually since I have a shitload.
  11. It looks pretty cool still. How did you do the roundover on the sides, I figure you used a router bit but what size?
  12. I have no good lumber yards close to me, I usually have my dad get me my wood since he's a cabinetmaker and he can order it for me cheaply. I did manage to find a place selling it for $45 a board foot though, thanks.
  13. Does anyone know where I can get koa big enough for a guitar neck? I can't find any that are big enough, it's for a customer and not worth wait and buying alot of it to get it the way I usually do.
  14. If you use a radial arm saw or miter box you will still need a jig to hold the neck tight against the fence. Otherwise its not gooing to work. A table saw is your best bet if you are going to machine the joint. Wouldn't a couple clamps work, you might have to screw a piece of wood onto the fence to make it taller though.
  15. If you don't mind buying refurbished this router is a great deal. I bought one from amazon a while ago for $160, even that's a great deal, it's very quiet and the variable speed is great I use the lowest speed for smaller things alot. I have the fixed base in my router table and it's easy to move up and down fast. I'm waiting for one of the $60 ones with just the fixed base come in stock so I can have one just for the router table and have another for pickup cavities and stuff and have a fixed base for routing too. When those get in stock I'll probably buy 2 so I'll have one for the copy carver I'm going to build. http://www.reconditionedsales.com/Hitachi_...ed)___i307.aspx EDIT: Could a mod please move this to tools I posted it in the wrong forum?
  16. $130 it would pay for itself in wood saved over none scarf jointed headstocks...or just in time saved...those things cut clean. I wouldn't go with no scarf joint there are tons of ways to do it. $130 is alot to save a half hour or 45 minutes every couple of months even if I had to do it by hand if I didn't have a chop saw I'd buy one though. I just remembered that I have access to 1 maybe even 2 chop saws that would cut 15 degree angles or I'll just use my radial arm saw the blades pretty dull though. I kind of want to cut it by hand though.
  17. I would think that would be too easy to mess up. I would draw the line you want to cut and freehand it on the bandsaw or a japanese pull saw (which seems like the cleanest way to do it just a little more work) and then doublestick tape the headstock piece and the neck piece together and clean it up with a blockplane. I have a radial arm saw so I might go that way but I don't really like using it for anything other than crosscutting. The craftsman miter saw mentioned earlier would be pretty much perfect I wouldn't buy one just for this though although having a sliding one would be nice.
  18. It seems like you could mess that up very easily, for my last strat I borrowed one of these from my boss it roughed it out in 2 or 3 minutes than I just hand sanded took me maybe 15 minutes to do it http://www.mytoolstore.com/makita/gv5000.jpg. I am going to buy one of the ryobi angle grinders because there cheap, I think they would be better for carving tops, and it comes with a sanding disc in the box, the reviews are all pretty good too. I usually don't buy cheap tools but I've had a ryobi bench grinder for years and it never failed and I have one of their belt sanders which are great, the first one I got died but I brought it to home depot and got a replacement no questions asked. This is the one I'm getting http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores...uctId=100596747 for $47 they send you 2 of them and my brother wanted one so I'm getting one for $23.
  19. I am pretty much just looking for any guitar building tools, books, or guitar parts. I have a 21' monster cable that's never been used (I got 2 in a trade and only need 1 they are great) and maybe a dod vibrothang pedal and I could add a little money with paypal. This is the cable http://accessories.musiciansfriend.com/pro...ble-?sku=331652
  20. Go for it I think it would look better that way anyways and like the other poster said it will only make it stronger.
  21. My dad is a cabinetmaker and told me to just cut it freehand on the bandsaw and clean it up with a blockplane but I'm thinking another option might be if you have a radial arm saw, it probably would allow you to do a 15 degree angle.
  22. This is a double bound strat body with mahogany body and neck and maple fingerboard. http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/rr266/g...er/IMG_7660.jpg http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/rr266/g...er/IMG_7661.jpg http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/rr266/g...er/IMG_7663.jpg http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/rr266/g...er/IMG_7665.jpg http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/rr266/g...er/IMG_7670.jpg http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/rr266/g...er/IMG_7677.jpg http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/rr266/g...er/IMG_7683.jpg http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/rr266/g...er/IMG_7685.jpg http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/rr266/g...er/IMG_7688.jpg http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/rr266/g...er/IMG_7694.jpg
  23. If your worried about mahogany making it sound too dark maybe walnut? from what i've heard it should fit what you need
  24. Check out craigslist if it's good where you are for a compressor I got a 20 gallon campbell hausfeld air compressor delivered in great condition for $100 and it costs $550 new.
  25. I do it by hand but with this stainless steel fretwire I bought it from warmoth and it was pre-bended worked fine with the 12" radius. There is a tutorial stickied here somewhere to make one for $10 though.
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