Mr Alex

Err when I said make your own that included all that stuff. I do one for whole body, one for chambers, and one for cavities, and that one also has openings for the chambers(cavity cover etc.) If you cant do something THAT simple, you CAN NOT build guitars! Alternatively you could do it all with out templates, also not that hard, just takes longer.

Make your own, and if you can't do that, you CAN NOT make a guitar!

At my old school we had a vacuum former which heated the hell out of the plastic and then sucked it over your mold, it was hot enough to burn you and it was like 2mm vinyl we were using(vyvac or something like that). So heat should work as long as that drum wrap isn't like celluloid. If you wanna do the back as well, you'll need to figure out a way to join a second piece, perhaps a black accent line between them. Edit: keep in mind the vinyl could get quite thin on the edges and I broke a piece that was stretched too far. But I'd think a guitar would be fine.

prug yur guttar n 2 et n den prug at n two da amp n cee

Err correct me if I'm missing something, but couldn't you use ferric chloride to eat off ALL the plating? Cos that way you could have unplated parts which would age nicely to a patina. Not just scummy, not looked after, looking parts like most relics have.

It was in the birthday list yesterday I think it was.

I ended up sanding the guitar back as i wasn't happy withthe finishanyway - I got a wired bubbly issue when left in the sun (this was rattle can laquer onto of vinyl so maybe a wierd combo reaction). I think I'll use poly then - OUTSIDE I'm now looking to cover the front with a veneer so lets see what happens. ← Sorry for what I said earlier, I was just a dick, The nitro laquer will react with the vinyl, there is a page on frets.com dedicated to vinyl being your enemy.

Look I'm sorry to hear that, but seriously,"you aint seen nothin". Dude, I dropped out of school to nurse my mum, whilst she went downhill from motor neurone disease. She went from regular health to barely able to move and unable to talk, to eventually dying in the shortest 8 months of my life. 8 months! We were told you can last up to 5 years, and to expect around 2! Edit: when I say barely able to move, I mean that she could sort of tilt her head stilghtly.

Bad Idea. My old man has multiple myloma.....bone cancer basically. It is caused by solvents and airbore particulates. So be very careful and protect yourself. Its like safe sex dont be stupid. ← Yeah yeah I know, I can use my brothers respirator in weekends, which I'll do, but trust me, I've been exposed to MUCH worse things than industrial poly, MUCH worse. Can I Hear ya say, BIOLOGICAL PESTICIDES!!! Containing things such as antifreeze, and chemicals I cant even remember the name of cos there so long. Edit: Any major health problems I get during my lifetime, I can just sue the government for. I doubt I'll win, But if enough people do, like agent orange and all those things, eventually somebody will win, they messed with our whole city.

I used 2 pack industrial poly without a respirator, I'm still good. I'm just having to take a week or so off while my throat recovers.

Dont tempt me, I've got some practise bodies I could do that to, I'll have to ask my brother cos hes the only one who can work the clutch in the "good car", He'll probably say something about protecting his precious eagers, but its worth the try.

Yes and No, Which country we talking 'bout?

Figure out what pedal you wanna build first, then you'll know what parts to get. I'm not sure how eccelekticalley minded you are, but I'd recommend starting by building a simple od250 or distortion+, I went big the first time and ended up wasting $50 on components.

If YOU like em thats all that matters, and that you got a good deal is good too. But the f holes are just rude, you should have gone with a traditional f shape, especially if you're gonna use a bridge and tailpiece. It would just look nicer IMHO.

First Save some money and get some duncan pickups(if prs pickups still cost as much as I think they do) And also, those "f holes" are rude.

The stew mac fret calculator will give you precise measurements for the bridge for your choice of scale length, including acoustic guitars and non compensated.

I got mine from musiciansfriend for $138nz cos i know some armeys who have family over there. But they're $300nz at musicworks stores I believe, Would be cheaper for me cos I'm in their good books at my local one(jus give 'em a 6er and your set for discounts ).

OMG!! You pick its range pretty much! And if a treble boost is what you're after(if I undestand that correctly) thats the main thing I use mine for, get it set up right and you can have screaming leads with sustain beating you in the face. The Weeping demon has only 2 draw backs I can find, Dosen't sound how you want it STRAIGHT out of the box, And it has a tendency to clip on the upper frets when playing "ultra" clean. I can't see why people dont ever give them a shot, I hope it aint anymore of this "but it's imported" rubbish.

Or you could get an Ibanez Weeping Demon, Its got everything guitarmaestro described, plus its got a Volume boost/cut control, a footswitch if you want to use that instead, an effect intensity control, a low end control, a frequency range shifter for basses or a heavy guitar sound, a range fine tuner, and a delay controller for the auto switching. And if I'm not mistaken it retails cheaper than a bad horsie. They take a bit to get set up how you like, but the tone is totally adjustable.

AWW come on guys, the hum and hiss is the best part, not to mention the fact that if you touch it(DON'T!) it picks up EVERY radio frequency(within reason) at once. Although that may be to do with the fact that I live near my cities main transmission tower. You gotta have faith in the old skool. PLUS, it "Goes Faster".

mmmk forget the cookie, customs will eat it, the crazy one with the plus sign is polarised(+ and-) and the other is non-polarised, log means logrithmic, and I doubt you'll find a reverse log, just swap ends of the taper for reverse. I built a superior version to what you're wanting(superior in the sense that it was a od250(same thing kinda) and it was modified for better tone. Swapping the terminals for the reverse log pot does work. edit: dang beat me to it. and he needs the 3rd pot for the micro amp.

unless you have reverse cut gears(which you probably wont) the knob will have to be turned clockwise rather than anticlockwise, if you can put up with that, then there is no problem. Edit: are you talking about the knob shaft or the string post? if I've reread it correctly, then you have them on the wrong way to start with, I'm confused! Edit again: forget that, I think my answer is correct for what you said.

I can't remeber if they still do, but lmi sold a cutter that fit a dremel for undercutting the binding to remove another point of adhesion. But with care, a carbide disk would POSSIBLY have the same results

There's a couple of things on frets.com where he scores the finish with a razor blade and then prys the binding away with a palette knife so it can be reglued. Heres one

Sorry for lack of updates and pictures, my dad had to get his camera back for work stuff, so I'll probably just have finished pics next. My choice of top wood turned out to be terrible, it looked real good plain, but stained really unevenly(I gave up after 6 sand backs). My friend is even happier, cos I just scored 4 litres of industrial(near scratch proof) 2 pack poly, the smell is like rotting animals, so my ultra thick masks are being swapped for my brothers industrial respirator tomorrow, and I'll start painting the actual body then. The colour is a custom mix(it was meant to be for a gold top I was gonna do, but through mis communication the colour went from gold to pink to red to purple to a cross between black, silver and red) its actually really cool, I'm super irritated cos my brother didn't write down the formula as he mixed it, so without some super time consuming matching, its a one off mix. And at $150+ a litre, I wont be getting anymore anytime soon. I did however get some stuff I cant even remember(let alone spell). But it's pretty much another industrial 2 pack poly type thing, the data sheets I got say it is a high gloss metallic finish suitable for industrial application where durability and protection are an issue, examples of applications, Oil platforms and refineries, chemical processing plants. Judging by the tin, you pretty much gotta coat it in acetic acid and start scrubbing it with a wire brush to damage it, ill have to start sanding it while its drying to fully level it before polishing, I just gotta find a use for silver paint. I also cut the fretboard the other day, so fretting, painting and final assembly and its done! And I'm currently planning an acoustic mandolin, but that will be put behind a little because Ive still gotta finsih fretting my singlecutaway.