GuitarGuy

The info you're looking for can be found Here (just scoll down to general repairs) Keep in mind using a patch like a dutchman is not unlike inlay. So if you dont have experience with inlay. I'd suggest LOTS of practice first. Regardless It is going to be really hard to do without removing the top of the guitar. Edit: What's wrong with f-holes anyway?

lol oh sorry, i misunderstood. Dont have much for you there. Best way, retop the thing. Alternate would be a dutchman. Make a bigger plug (any shape bigger than the hole that wedges in. So that its proud on both sides of the top. Then carve flush and sand etc etc. I'll add, this is a bad way to do it. A retop is your best option.

To mask any f-holes (or any hole that peers inside the cavity) stuff clean lint-free rags in the cavities so that they protect the innards from overspray. Make sure there is enough rag in there that it dosen't move around while you're spraying.

You didn't specify what type of wood, but I'm assuming you want to keep the fretboard natural? Yes, you can mask up to the edge of the fretboard. once it is cleared there will be a noticable ridge at the edge where the tape and clear meet. This should be right on the edge where the flat of the fretboard meets the sides of the fretboard. Sand that edge lightly with 800, 1000, 1500 in sequence and the line should blend with the fretboard.

I've got a cheap dremel made by "superior" whomever they are. It threads with the dremel collars for the attachments. The problem is that the collets (that hold the actual bit) for the dremel brand are a smaller thread than this "superior" one. So keep that in mind as well.

Yeah, I'm in this camp also. 3/4" MDF templates with a 1" bearing bit. Once the bearing gets to the bottom of the template. Just use the top of the cavity you have already cut as the guide. Works really well and without undue stress on your router.

I got 8k of 44 on a tele bridge bobbin with plenty to spare. So 43 you can fit approx that much on a single coil. edit: 42 prob wont fit, like he said

This is just a fancy version of doing it on a floor model drill press. The Table on a bigger drill press can be tilted so it is vertical and the body can be clamped to the table. Mind you this is probably a faster version but it does the same thing.

Congrats man! This will definitely be a great experience for you!

Well. I'm in Turkey. I don't think there's any legal way they can send flammable products over-seas. For an individual customer at least ← Ah...that presents a problem. I dont know what to tell you.

If you can order online www.reranch.com has aerosol nitro.

Stick with the cans. If you can find a decent gun for $25 good for you. For anything worthwhile you can expect to pay $200-$300 CDN. Plus you will absolutely need a professional moisture trap with that kind of humidity (the inline ones only soak up so much water)

Airbrush.com The forum on that site will be very helpful if you decide to get started.

Yes kevan is right!

It depends on what kind of posts it is....but if they are threaded straight through the press-in part of the stud, you can screw in a bolt with the same thread as the posts. If the threads go clean through when it gets to the other side it will force the post out. I've removed them this way on a charval with no ill effects.

I can hear crickets........

Sorry if I'm hijacking a bit. But I don't get why people jump on the brandwagon. Some brands warrant the acclaim and desireability due to superior contruction. But others is just hype. Like why is a fender trem knob $1 more than a no name import. Now if you could build one that same as that for less id say go for it. In my opinion its a waste of money buying a unicorn when you can settle for a horse.

I'm sure this has been posted before but check out Sawstop It stops the blade instantly on the table saw when it comes into contact with flesh. I can't wait untill its mainstream with all tools.

No, I haven't, but man that is a cool idea! So are you thinking like a stain in a pattern? I'd be curious about how it might bleed.

Like he said you can lay it out with masking tape but i would skip the wax paper masking tape will most likely stick well to it. Laying it out directly on the guitar has its problems too. Unless you have really good tape it may bleed underneath. Also cutting out the shape with an exacto is really tough to do the first time out. You need to have a very light touch as to cut just the tape and not the paint underneath. Without having practice at that id say practice on scrap first. Another option is to get some vinyl lettering material from a stationary store like staples. You can get it in 8.5X11 sheets and it's adhesive backed. The glue on it tends to be really sticky. so you may need to de-tack it with a clean t-shirt. Use you're judgement on that one. This way you can cut it out first and then just stick it on. and mask the rest accordingly.

I got some on my site HERE. If you dont have autocad let me know. I dont mind sending you printed versions if you send be a SASE.

Sorry bout the quote Devon I wasn't targeting you at all, I am just so erked a some people here that I didnt realize I quoted you.. (Dont bother looking for it the post was edited)

Somthing to get clear with people who don't work with it too often. Not all fillers are created equal. Bondo is NOT A QUALITY FILLER! It is perhaps the worst. A good filler has to have a base and a hardener (I know i know bondo has that but whatever). For topcoats and imperfections like this it's best to use a fine filer in a skim coat making sure the area is roughed up first. Definition of a skim coat is just enough to fill the imperfection + a little bit for shrinkage in drying. For topcoats on cars and guitars if need be I use Evercoat glaze coat. Glaze Coat Just search for part #100417 Its is very fine almost a thick paint consistancy And for those who are doubtful about sticking to paint....I can't speak for bondo because I dont use the junk but I'm assuming from wes that it does not stick. The back of the Glaze coat container reads "For use over body filler, fiberglass, many plastics including SMC, metal, two component primer surfaces and oem topcoats. I have used it on fender, samik, ibanez and peavey paint with no problems 2yrs + later. And I filled some pretty big holes. Ibanez for example was stripped by some guy with a blowtorch. Im sorry if im off on a rant but it just floors me when people assume you know jack because you have less posts. There is a world before PG people!

Bondo is gabage. I'm sorry im not privy to the limitless knowledge of wes. q83- As long as you used a good 2 part filler you're fine.

We're talking about a little dimple here. I have NEVER had filler come off......EVER. If you slather it on over paint you are asking for trouble. But a small dimple? You havent fixed many cars have you?