crazygtr

looks dangerous! very cool axe!!!!

"Nice, but wouldn't it look better if you used glue instead of tape?" Man, I felt your pain....... Binding goo as we call it is my preferred method of installing binding since it fills any voids and scrapes beautifully

Looking good. I've always admire people who do what needs to be done with whatever is at hand. Cheers.

Only thing wrong I can see are those toes.

AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!

Yep, knew about the center joined body, it's just that I'm used to rout the cavity from the front and then use that for reference to rout the back. That way I'm sure about centering and intonation. I guess I should start trusting measurements.

How do you know you're on the right place? I don't see any marks on the centerline or marks to measure from, Am I missing something?

Yes.Why wouldn't you? It is just another fret.No reason for it to be different from all the others.Only reason you cut a nut higher is to give it a little room for wear before having to replace the nut. Think about it like this...What happens when you use a capo?The fret in front of the capo becomes the "nut"...same exact thing here. The whole "slightly larger zero fret" is only going on the theory that in time the strings will cut a groove in the zero fret faster than the others because of the constant pressure,but I feel like at that point you need a fret redressing anyway.Of course,this is my first zero fret...I think I like it though...the open tone is just like the fretted tone...it sounds smoother and open chords seem better tuned That's exactly why I asked, it just make sense. I file my nut slots so the strings rest at the same height as if it was just another fret. That is KEY for intonation. IMHO.

Did you use the same fretwire for the zero fret?

wooden knobs.

+1 on natural, I think the red takes more than it gives. IMHO.

Japanese phillips and American phillips are not the same, I have a set of phillips screwdrivers (american), with the tip grounded up a little so they fit the Japanese screws perfectly.

+1 on the "crunchy pat" I've been using that pick up through a high gain amp and it sounds sweet and articulated. Nice surprise for what I paid for it.

That board looks sweet, how much wood do you leave in the back of the truss rod rout? I use those e bay rods too and try to leave at least 1/8 ", on maple, can you get away with less? ( by the way, you got away safe from the clamp police! )

Man your on a roll!

Not a fan of the strat type jack, prefer the recessed side jack, but overall that's a gutar I would love to play.

"I can feel it coming in the air".......(clamps). this is going great by the way.

I followed this builds on the other forum and have to tell you, your attention to detail and finishing are second to none.

Sorry, but it's the other way around, a hum when you touch the strings is a string ground issue. A hum that stops when you touch the strings is a pickup/electronics shielding issue.

Like Pestvic said, shield your pickup cavities first, that may be all you have to do.

Nice Video. Only thing I would advice is to get your hand out of the way when reaching the last bit of fretboard, if that scraper would've been sharp you would've been injured.

"If I touch the strings the hum stops" Sounds more like a shielding issue.

I like how it resembles the Peavey Vandenberg, very cool shape.

Great looking bass! I don't see the battery cables coming from the boxes, I'm I missing something?