MiKro

This is a basic idea of a fretwire bending jig. easy and cheap, use skateboard bearings and some bolts.

Hi all, while looking through things I found this video. Another way to make some tools when money is tight for those.that need to grow there tool selection.

Try a different set of strings, brand and size? mk

OMG, that acne scar on her right cheek may put ole Wally off? Nah!! He's got hard wud!!!! LOL!!!

Have you considered the idea of approaching PRS with your desire? Maybe they have or could start a high school type of mentoring program? Maybe with the right attitude, you may find that you could offer your willingness to learn in exchange for some remedial work from you? To open locked doors, you must first knock on them. This way you may find the key. Good luck, MK

Well it is almost back and corrected. My Y axis is within 0.00025" of tram The X axis is being an ass of a time getting it in to tolerence. I am now at 0.0045" It will get there soon. That is what they make BIG ASS Hammers for. Update: Finally, X and Y trammed within 0.0002" Man I feel much better now. So when I remove the tramming dial indicator it will come out around 0.0005"- 0.0007 " due to the weight for the tool. Just surfaced the spoil board, I need to get the dust collection hose back up in the middle supported as I can just see the faint lines from the side pressure of it I can't feel them but I can see them. MK

Well It is more than just a few adjustments. Dammit. Looks as though I may be building me a new Z axis after all. It is off enough that i can adjust it to very close with out making new parts for the time being. I think I am going to fix it to it's best first and use it to make the next one. It will at least accurately locate center holes for drilling on the drill press. Then I can make the new parts for this one and put it on something else. I knew I was going to have to build another one at sometime because this has a slight amount of flex in it that I have never been happy with, even if it is only 0.003", I want better. LOL. So time for a newer design and a stiffer one. update: found my problem that would not allow me to move a part. I bent a few bolts. LOL!! Just had to take it apart another layer to get there. They are not bent much but just enough to make it not quite square up. whew!! now back to getting it trammed. MK

The best way and safest is to have someone else that knows how do it. Now that I screwed with your head, Did the pre-amp, you have come with a template for the hole? If so, locate the the correct curvature that the pre-amp will go on the side of the guitar. put some tape on the side and draw lines that correspond to the square in relation to the pre-amp. on the side by projection. This will then allow you to locate the template correctly. Drill small holes in the corners on the inside of the square and then using what a hand type saw, you will slowly cut that out. DO NOT USE A JIGSAW though. A small coping or hand saw will work, just be deliberate and slow. If needed, clean up the cuts with a file/fine rasp and sand paper. Hope that helps? MK

Well CNC is that way , when you screw up it will let you know it.

I got in a hurry and used two sided tape only for something that I knew better on. I did not surface my spoil board in the past 4 weeks. Well you guessed it, the tape let loose on a part. Damn it I know better, the spoil board had swelled some here and there and was no longer level.. I could have used screws, but not dumb ass me, Get in a hurry and don't do it right. LOL. Now I have to tram the damn spindle again. That will take some hours I don't have to spare right now. Oh well, Shit happens!! MK

Well he has wood and only so much sap left. LOL!!!!!!!!!!!

So I took that long ass Baritone Acoustic Neck model and then transformed it into a 25.5", 13* paddle headstock, tele heel model. LOL!! I am liking this new Sub D stuff in Rhino, it is like a mix of T-spline and clayoo plugins. Very powerful. MK

Just made a new baritone acoustic neck model today. Trying to learn this new Sub D modeling stuff in Rhino 7 . MK

Here is a better wiring diagram for stepper motors and drivers I put together.. MK

Well pulse is most likely to fast now, I would go back to the 2 or 3 setting on that. Set the accel rate to 10% to 15 % max for grins to see what happens on all axis. Bump your microsteps up by the next value for tests at this point. try say 3000 if that is a choice. you may try the other direction as well. I added a file for you to gen a toolpath with. rename by removing the .zip MK test.crv3d.zip

Mike in this picture I can barely see the dip switches. It appears that on two of them DIP 5 is on and the other it is not? Also what micro steps are you running and what is your accleration? Whan I have had an issue with the type of movement you describe it was usually the acceleration that was a problem. I am still concerned about the dips though? On most drivers DIP 4 or maybe 5 (??? been awhile) is normally used to to half the power at idle. also would like to see all of the wiring to the drivers? Are you using wiring to the enable connectors on the drivers as well? Most do not use this as the 5VDC for pulse and direction is all that is needed.. Or is the small connector that has the Black, Red, Yellow to the Pulse and direction? Also what drivers are they specifically? If they are the TB6600 then many have had issues with them. These are the drivers I use. https://www.automationtechnologiesinc.com/products-page/kl-stepper-drivers/kl5056

So here is a test of the laser at work., It is slow compared to a Co2 laser but it will get the job done I need for a while. I can only run it at about 80ipm to get this result. update: I have to get some safety screens up. Forgetting to put the glasses on can mess your eyes up quick. LOL MK

Yep mine does the same most times as it has to do with the steps being off so slightly it is the best I can come up with. LOL

Mike, you do realize that 0.0001 is one tenth of a thousand. It is nothing to concern about. or one tenth of 0.001" most machines have 0.005" or more backlash in them. Most things done in wood will change more than 0.020" from day to day due to humidity. MK

So today, I finally had a chance to work with the laser. Took me a few tries to get things doing what they should. Now it will work and getting some decent results. I managed to get the steppers calibrated. and found the sweet spot for what I need to do. Speed/laser power settings. Now I need to install some homing switches and get that setup. get this thing permanently mounted to a piece of ply so it can be used on a table. Yea!! Me, Grbl is definitely different but not that complicated. MK

I have simulated the Gcode you posted and no anomalies I can find. Be safe. MK

Well,I think that you should stop worrying about the guitar. You are trying to run before you crawl. It is time for basics. Establish an X0 Y0 that you will use from now on that is your machine coordinates. From there you always have a reference point. You need to make circles, squares and pockets first. these will help you understand your machine and machining. Without this knowledge you are wasting your time in my opinion. First get that down as this will also help troubleshoot machine problems. Too much is being said about possible Gcode problems as well as this, that, and chicken fat. Get back to basics. I also do not understand the fascination with Gecko? Yes it is used by many but it is not the endall of problem solution. . Just my 0.02cents, Peace, Mk

The steps and velocity I show are what ever they are in mach3 upon install, This is just Mach3 installed on my main PC for processing Screenshots. Not my actual working control PC. LOl MK

What Andrew is referring to is here in Mach3.

Here are the steps for auto step calcs in MAch3.