MiKro

No Problem, I got your PM, will ship it next week. I'll post a Pic whenI get the set out. Mike Edited to add: Here's the set I'm sending Luke. Not a great set but has nice quilt to it. Wiped it down with mineral spirits to show the grain. One more thing Luke? This set is only 20" long and 13 5/8" wide. Let me know if it is not large enough before I ship it. If it is too small give me the size needed?

I think the buyer might be the owner of Grizzly. He seems to really like quilted maple. Just a CRAZY guess!!! Otherwise who knows who would pay that for that piece. I have some that I believe is better than that? Sure would like to find MikeyMike, I sure would like to sell it for that kind of $ per board feet and my piece is much larger MK BTW: Why do Elephants have 4 feet? answer: because 6inches is to short

Luke Pm me with your address, I'll send you a set of curly or quilted maple. They won't be a AAAA grade but much better than your pine. Mike

It's flat a$$ ugly!!!!!!!! Bottom line it's a mix of PRS crap and Fender Jag both are crap. Really though it's sorta SEXY!!!!!! Nice lines, and I hope it works out well for you. MK

Todd, Funny that you say your Piano has a dehumidifier. My Grandparents lived in Greensboro NC, they bought a wonderful Steinway baby grand in 1959. I became the owner of same in 1983. when I went to bring it home the soundboard was cracked. Why, because of the humidity changes in NC ( it had a humidifier installed by the Steinway company they purchased it from). I was told that moving it to Texas would be very BAD!! (by the Steinway Dealer). I sold it back to the Steinway dealer in Greensboro. I wish now I hadn't done that, but what would it have cost me to fix it? Who knows? Lesson learned, even the dehumidifiers and whatever are not all they're cracked up to be. Be your own judge, WATCH and LEARN from the WOOD. It will tell you what it needs, if you look and listen. Just some peaceful advice and wisdom for what it's worth! Mike

How large of a piece is it? If it is not very large, less than 10" wide and less than a few feet long. YOU might try using a foodsaver and long foodsaver bag to use as a vacuum press. I use a small Rival seal-a-meal to do small veneer work. I got it at Big Lots for $30. works great for small stuff like jewelry boxes and such. If you by the bags in rolls then you can make them longer. Will also work for laminating neck blanks but must be careful about sharp corners. I generally make cauls out of 1/4" mdf and round off all of the edges. Just a thought? I've never tried it to marinate wood but HEY! It marinates meat very well Mike

Well as my post said, I can't find any hardcoat that specifies it is "flat" and I'm looking for a product that is flat but thanks for your completely non useful smart ass answer. Since there was no actual useful information in your post, I can only assume you don't know of a product that will help me. Edit: answered my own question. Krylon makes a Matte Finish product number 1311. It doesn't say if it's acrylic or urethane but I'm going to test it before using it. I'm sure a search of thier site would tell me exactly what it is but I want to make sure it's flat enough for my needs. I apologize!! I was in a pi$$y mood and it was meant to be a smart A$$ answer. Now as far as a product. The closest you will find to a true flat in a clear coat, is what you have most likely already found, a matte finish. Flat paints are designed to be non reflective when cured, any attempt to sand or otherwise add protective finishes, defeat the purpose of the original design of the paint. Most flat paints do not look smooth for the reason that this introduces multiple minuscule facets that reflect or refract light in many directions ( that's in lay mans terms ). Thus the pigment and additives cause this effect and the pigments being non reflective achieve the flat look. The same with Satins, mattes, and semi gloss. They have differing degrees of additives to achieve the effect they produce. That's why when you open a can of clear satin it looks milky. Again my apologies for my smart ass attitude. I wish you well on your journey of the Flat finish. MK edited to add: If you are using spray equipment, you might consider adding Transtint Black to your clear matte finish, it may help keep the depth of the clear down to a minimum and enhance the matte effect. Just a suggestion.

+1 on what Erik said!

Satin is not flat, If you want flat then use flat. Otherwise anything else that is a clear coat will have a sheen. THUS it is not flat. If you wax or buff a flat it will not be flat it will have a sheen THUS not FLAT!!! ARE YOU GETTING THIS CONCEPT? DOH!! SATIN is a flattened sheen, Semi Gloss is more glossy than Satin but not High Gloss. so FLAT IS JUST FLAT, that means NO REFLECTION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! LIKE FLATTTTTTTTTTTTTT!!!!

VERY TRUE!!! LOL! It is a nice set of flat sawn maple and I wish him well!!! MK

I gotcha Rich, Yes I believe that it was most likely poor surfacing that makes the faces off. I will usually resurface from the outside of both pieces first after the cutting so that any possible off angle from the resaw is then trued to the faces. Then surface the book match faces to minimize material loss, thus making for a better book match. As I stated, they are nice pieces and I would use them for many other projects with no hesitation, just not as a book matched set for any project whether a guitar or door faces or whatever. As stand alone pieces they are great. You are incorrect that I might call that a slip match cut, since a book match face in relation to the back face of the other piece is in fact a slip match. Since the book match is not as good as I would use, I would most likely move it or use it as slip matched. Mike

Rich, I understand what you are saying and I have had that problem ( mainly with ambrosia maple because it is a stain and not grain), but I would not sell that to anyone as Book matched. Maybe as slip matched which is what it looks like at best, but I wouldn't call that book matched. Sorry I'm not trying to be negative but, It just don't JIVE with me as to what I am seeing in the pic. They are still nice pieces but not as a joined top in my opinion. Sincerely, Mike

Sorry for the delay in response, Thanks Weston, but it just didn't work out. Come by sometime and BS with me. Hope all is well at your house? Mike

YOU MAY BE RIGHT !! I hope you are right otherwise it sucks as a pair! mk

They are nice pieces but not book matched. If they are supposed to be book matched, then you got screwed because whoever did the resaw and surface did it wrong. MK

The closest I can think of off hand is the files on Reso Nation. It's Gary Dusinas article on building an acoustic Resophonic guitar. Dusinas pdfs and pics. There are 13 parts to it so move down through the thread to find them all. Just please give him credit for his work! Mike

ROTFLMAO!!!!!!!!!! I've got some nice maple dust , mixed with camphor burl for a nice accented after scent, and i believe it may have a small touch of ash for that hint of rain MK

ROTFLMAO!!!!!!!!!! I've got some nice maple dust , mixed with camphor burl for a nice accented after scent, and i believe it may have a small touch of ash for that hint of rain MK

Send it to me I'll use it in my smoker on my next cookout, It will add some nice flavor to the ribs. Just kidding!! It sounds like it was not dry enough, As Rich asked what were the circumstances of purchase location, humidity from that location to yours, the moisture content of the wood if known, and time to acclimate in your environment? Most wood in my shop sits at least 6 months if it is kiln dried, and most likely 1 to 2 years, unless I really know my source. Otherwise all bets are off on changes once starting the milling process or shaping. Even then some pieces still exhibit stress moves due to removal of wood through the milling process. MK

Just place some fresh wood shavings in occasionally, that should do it. just kidding I have no clue what will happen with age on any given wood over time so, if smell is what you are looking for Do what you have done with those that please you so far and hopefully it will be the same result. BTW welcome to PG and sorry for the gig at you, I just couldn't resist. MK

I hope you are pleased with your purchase, Funny though that Carvin has just rereleased the old x100b tube amp. I still have one from 1980 sold two others best dang amp I ever owned. The best cleans, I've ever heard, and will stomp any Marshall amp built on any other aspect as well!!! Just my opinion, but if you ever get a chance play one, TRY IT, YOU WILL LIKE IT!! Mikey likes it!!!! MK

WHAT!!!!!!! I get younger everyday I spend here!! Soon I'll be drooling in my soup and whatever!! Oh that could be considered old age as well Welcome Awfernald MK

I tried using a heated wire like I used cutting styrofoam. Worked well separating the fretboard from the body of my reso build. Now I think I'll try it on a neck. Who knows may work well? Or not? Used a .009 guitar string instead of nichrome wire. set my transformer for about 14.5 volts, It cut through the glue like butter on the body join. so who knows it may work on the neck as well. just need to lift a corner first. I'll report back on that. MK

In my thinking this would cause an intonation problem if you didn't move the point of contact towards the 12th fret. Just my thoughts as 1/16th to 1/8th inch is what caused problems on my last build. Not having room for adjustment on my Reso build caused it not to be worth a crap. Therefore I scrapped it. So again I see where you are coming from and I think you will need to move the nut / point of contact. Not having tried one I'm not positive, but bridge position on most of stewmac calculations must be within .030 +/- and a 1/16th is .060+ So I would think that the nut should be dead on since they are basing the measurement from the nut face or point of contact,well I think you get the drift. Just my .02cents!!!! MK

You may need to change to a different tip size. Just a thought! MK