MiKro

No I don't see any issues? Just watch how much you drink, LOL:)))

Don't waste your money on the shipping or grain alcohol. ACE hardware and most any denatured alcohol will work fine with shellac flakes. Unless you are bound and determined to save the trees? If thats the case then your guitar won't be made of wood!!!! LOL:))) Most places like Woodcraft and others have it on hand (at a price) so someone will buy it when they buy the flakes. Those that know why they are buying the flakes, know better that to spend the extra $ unless it's the only source or the convenience. MK

Go for it Greg you are the point man now to get Donations. trust me when I SAY that it's not that easy to get those that want for free something that others will pay for. I GREATLY appreciated every $ that was raised for the BP tribute. So Good luck and Gods Speed with this endeavor. To all of those that did contribute a very BIG THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!! You all are the soul of this virtual gig. Sincerely, Mike

And I get questioned on my radius jig that is like the Grizzly?????? Well the prototype is very similar but not limited to one sanding unit, it was designed for a router table, but could be modified to use on any belt sander as well or even a Table saw if you were so inclined( NOT RECOMMENDED similar use as doing a cove cut). Also I have made the prototype public, as my changes for other uses and profiles make it unique and my intelectuall property. Therefore my choice to persue the direction I am going with it. It may pan out or not. I feel for you Perry. As I feel you are getting ripped off, as well as beleive that you have legal recourse and should seek it. Unless people stand up for what's right, all will lose. Just my .02cents MK

And I get questioned on my radius jig that is like the Grizzly?????? Well the prototype is very similar but not limited to one sanding unit, it was designed for a router table, but could be modified to use on any belt sander as well or even a Table saw if you were so inclined( NOT RECOMMENDED similar use as doing a cove cut). Also I have made the prototype public, as my changes for other uses and profiles make it unique and my intelectuall property. Therefore my choice to persue the direction I am going with it. It may pan out or not. I feel for you Perry. As I feel you are getting ripped off, as well as beleive that you have legal recourse and should seek it. Unless people stand up for what's right, all will lose. Just my .02cents MK

That would be sweet! I'd definitely try and get out there if we had one. CMA Sounds good!! Andy I just realized you live in Greensboro!! My Grandparents lived on Kimberly Dr close to the country club. They both passed in the 80s, Haven't been in that neck of the woods since, but I still remember it well. mk I could meet in Austin after July with no problem. My oldest daughter and her family are moving there in July. So I plan on being there on a regular basis MK

Hi All, Met with Dawnofzion Today. Had a great time BS'n about other interest as well. Deer and Turkey hunting and things like that. It's a Texas thing, LOL:))) I'm sure in your areas as well. Very nice and genuine person Weston is. I think you get the gist!!!! Had a nice time and welcomed the company, hopefully a friendship that will develop. Joseph aka GodBlessTexas as well as Weston, aka DawnoffZion and I plan on meeting up with Jon in 2 weeks for some BBQ at Jons' Dads restaurant in Ft Worth. We all look forward to the meet. It's really great putting faces with names. I'm the oldest in this group LOL:))) by at least 20+ years LOL:)) but these guys are invigorating for me and I hope I might be able to pass on some wisdom , but learn from them as well? If not at least we hope to have a good time!!! Thanks guys, Mike

Hey CMA, not to hijack this thread, but did you get my email on the fretboards? If not , pm me, I sent pics as well? Mike

sry about the double post?

+1 looking for the damn clamps I always pull then out and adjust them, but always seem to need more LOL:))) mk

Thanks for the pointed response Spoke I expected nothing less from you LOL:) see Red and Blue above. Mike

I agree Rich, My point was about cabinet work. I keep my shop at 50%. More importantly is the joinery of woods as this is where failure usually occurs due to the normal moisture changes in wood after the project is complete. Example: A raised panel door, the panel is left loose in the frame to allow for this. Approx, 1/8"to a 1/4" overall allowance(depending on species), usually pinned at 2 locations on the grain length but NOT across grain. The pinning cuts down on rattling when the door closes. a consistant Finish on all sides allows for more stabilty as well. As you said, and acoustic is vulnerable due to the fact of no finish inside. That coupled with a large surface area of thin wood makes the problem worse. If we followed the rule that you must veneer both sides equally as many in fine furniture suggest. we would not cap our guitars without doing so to the bottom as well. I was making light of everyone worrying so much about the elusive magic #. So peace out all. MIKE BTW Spoke, you are almost as stubborn headed as me. LOL:))) and the fret bender works fantastic!!!

I build only in the winter, early spring late fall months. If you think humidity is not problem in a shop you are wrong big time. Fret a fingerboard when the humidity is high and chances are you will be leveling the fret ends when the wood shrinks down in the dry winter months. Wood comes in a dryness state from a source generally at 7% the day they ship it. After that its subject to the same humidity issues as it is in your shop. Without climate control the wood will swell and shrink given your humidity levels. I live in the NE and summer is a No building time without climate control. Humidity is a serious issue and should be addressed in everyones shop or home shop.. Woodenspoke Spoke you are too serious at times, I'm sorry I pushed your red button. Maybe where you live it's a real problem. Never seen that though in the South? If your wood is at approx 12% give or take a few it's not a problem. If it was dried properly then the time it takes to change those properties to over % is BS. Now if you decide to soak your wood in H2O then it becomes a problem . I use a moisture meter and keep a humidity gauge in the shop, house and outside. I mean if you watch your house after the family all takes a shower then it's going up. Or when your boiling water in the kitchen. So Is that going to effect your wood? NO!!! so please don't try and snow me, I've been working with this stuff (wood) too damn long for that BS. All wood swells and shrinks with humidity,at different rates and that applies to the cut, type, thickness, finish and application of the wood. Now will wood set to an environment over years and change if moved to another that is drastically different, YES. Move a piano from NC on the east coast to Las Vegas after it sat in NC for 30 years and there will be a difference after time. Most likely splitting in the sound board due to the humidity change from 50% average to 15% So maybe you need to move to the South where you can build anytime. Have a good one Spoke you I know I care about ya as well!!! Just want to get ya RYLED UP!!!! LOL:)) Mike

Dm Deserter!!!! Leaving TX thats BLASPHEMY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! LOL:)) Good Luck and Gods speed Maiden Sincerely, MIke

+1 LOL:))BTW I have one for sale

Maybe purchase a bit that is longer???? they do make 2in and 3in cut lenghts. JUst my .02cents MK

now with my post we are at 65 replies. AMAZING HOW GLUE IS, WE SEEM TO BE STUCK. LMAO!!!!!! MK

Ya'll worry too much. LOL:)) Only applies to finish if your wood is kiln dried. Otherwise for cabinet work the main thing is grain orientation. If you get it wrong then the doors will bow out otherwise not a problem But 50% is a good # MK

Thanks Mattia, There's some good info for those that want to know. I was stirring the pot so to speak,LOL:))) Mike

there are many PVA's some that fill and bond and others that bond disimalar materials and everything in between. They all have there place. for instance you don't want to use titebond on a a truss gussett, as it will be exposed to high heat in summer while in the attic of a house, whereas a PVA 400 will work great in that environment and has the shear strength required for that application. Then we get into epoxies and ureas, polyies and god knows what??? So I suggest that maybe someone would take on the task of preparing a glue tutorial and do some realistic research on the subject and post it for all to see and understand. ANYONE UP TO THE CHALLANGE? It seems that this thead is a good example as to the many differences in opinions on glue. SO WHAT GLUE IS BEST FOR WHAT? SO Who wants to collaborate with whom to find the answers? Don't be shy! Enquiring minds want to know? LOL:) just my .02cents Mike

Welcome LW, Nice to see that you filled out your profile. Many newbs don't, It does help with knowing someones age and possible life experience. So what questions do you have? Please start with the search function as there is plenty of info to find, then refine it to your questions and you will find a plethora of help. Again glad to have you here at PG. Mike

>snip< But if MiKro is going to hook you up, go with that!

Hey D? you PMd me, I know your on a budget so plz Pm me with your $ constraints, I'm sure I can find something that will work for you. I'll pm you with my phone# if you have questions. Mike

And what fret would you cut off Frank? I based this off of a 25" scale to 24"If you were to cut at say the first fret and this becomes the nut face, the difference from the New nut face to the new first fret will be approx 1.324 or 1.325 inches.? A 24in scale from nut to first fret is 1.347 inches. This means you are off by .020 + inches just at the first fret. Now compound this across the board and you will see that it will be highly improbable to intonate. With a 25.5 inch scale there is 1.351 inches so there is still a diffenece that may cause a real problem as this extrapolates but maybe worth a try. Since it is only between .010 to .005 difference at the 12th fret. Who knows?? Just an FYI MIke I see what you're saying. I wasn't saying that you should cut off that much and just arbitrarily make the scale length 24" but that the scale length of such a fingerboard would be about 24", which is a bit different. I might be thinking about it wrong but it would be functionally equivalent to putting a capo across the first fret. I will measure it when I get home to see if it still makes sense after that... No problem, I was just trying to understand your thought process. In fact I didn't account for the difference in the blade thickness/kerf in this at all. If we take a .023 thickness blade and use it's center as the fret placement marker/measurement. The Nut slot uses the face as the start point, therefore we start at zero with no account for the kerf as we measure from the face. the first fret distance is measured from that to the center line of the blade. Each additional fret is measured this way as well from the nut face.. This would add an additional .0115 of an inch in the equation as well. Ah H#ll I'm being to picky again LOL:))) Mike

And what fret would you cut off Frank? I based this off of a 25" scale to 24"If you were to cut at say the first fret and this becomes the nut face, the difference from the New nut face to the new first fret will be approx 1.324 or 1.325 inches.? A 24in scale from nut to first fret is 1.347 inches. This means you are off by .020 + inches just at the first fret. Now compound this across the board and you will see that it will be highly improbable to intonate. With a 25.5 inch scale there is 1.351 inches so there is still a diffenece that may cause a real problem as this extrapolates but maybe worth a try. Since it is only between .010 to .005 difference at the 12th fret. Who knows?? Just an FYI MIke