masterblastor

Man, that's a shame I was thinking of trying one on my next build. Do you think lubricating where the trem bar touches the strings would help at all?

with a roller bridge wouldn't most of the tuning issues would be at the nut? Sorry for te noob question, bever had a bigsby. That is a beautifull guitar man!

Yeah, It's a pretty kick ass trem. axcessories.com used to carry them. Still do, but the black one is out of stock. A couple other questions. Is that floyd not recessed? Were there no shims under the locking nut? And is there no angle on that neck? I haven't seen a pic of a strait edge run along the fret board, so take this with a grain of salt.... That neck doesn't look bad enough to require anything more than a couple 1/4 cranks on the truss rod. It does look like an inproperly installed double lock system. The rout for the nut looks to deep(if there are shims that aren't pictured, disredgard) It appears that the floyd is not recessed, and the neck is not shimmed to a 3 - 6 degree angle. That would account for a lot of your neck issues. My advise would be to shim the neck at the heel introducing some angle and then adjust the neck itself. That or break out the router and properly recess it.

Yeah, It's a pretty kick ass trem. axcessories.com used to carry them.

Judging by the logo by the trem arm Id guess that it was by manufactured by Ping under the supervision of Floyd Rose. However, there are a lot of knockoffs out there. There are 2 ways I use to tell if a floyd is decent or not. First, what is the block made out of (if this is a Ping, it should be brass)? Second, are the knife edges still sharp and clean (no chunks missing)?

The site looks awesome man. It renders properly in IE. I'd change the font to something sans serif to match up with the nav a bit, but I'm the anti-serif so take that with a grain of salt. Are you in Seattle as well?

Do you mean the actual fastners/posts or the anchors/bushings poped out? If it's just the bushings, why not just get bigger bushings or glue the old ones back in properly? If it's the posts, you can re-thread the bushings and put some decent posts in there.

I would buy a router and some wood. You could have made your own tele body in the time it took someone to ship one to you. You probably could have made one in the time you spent complaining on here. You're a woodworker, right? Like it or not you should have checked the return policy.

Beyond ancient.

LOL, L337 has been around since the 80s. Not That I would have ever participated in anything so heinous but.... You can thank hackers for inventing it to avoid crawlers and search engines finding their conversations forums and bbs. 3y3 H4x0r j00 n00b

I have to invest in a hygrometer; but its been pretty dry. We've had tons of snow in the NE USA, but for the most part it makes a great ski season. If I use another part of the house, its too cold. The living room has a pellet stove in it which dries out that room, so there aren't many choices. Put a cast iron tea pot on the pellet stove and keep it filled with water. Make sure you remove the whistle if it has one.

Very nice shielding job Patrick!

I'm guessing by the location of the strap pin that won't be an issue. The controls look like they'll actually be easier to access. Not sure about that folded back bit on the bass side. It may be a bit akward if the player has a wide arse. The one next to it has me intrigued. Is that an e-brake lever? That would be sick if you made that thing work a mod board or something. Built in break lever Wah-wah? LOL

http://www.ibanezregister.com/images/groups/fatgraymatt/Ibanez-S470FM.jpg This style would get my vote. My favorite take on a superstrat second to the RG.

LOL, Or "Mahogany" bed frames and headboards. My daughter should outgrow it in a year. I'll chop it up, make a guitar out of it and post some sound samples when that happens. That is, If I can take a router to it without the wood blowing up.

I've never seen it used as a tonewood. I have seen it used in garbage east asian furniture. Based on that, I would not buy it unless I had the plank in my hand to inspect prior to purchase.

pics?

Update. Still waiting on the rest of my parts. Guitarfetish used UPS, who decided to drive my pickups across Washington state in the middle of a record cold winter. Needless to say, they are not here yet. Everyone else used fedex who had the sense to ship through portland. No problem.

+1 or

Yep, that's the wizard's curse. stamped with a "W". +1 on the CF rods. Great idea WezV! Depending on the grain that should shore up 80% of it. I've also wondered about plugging the holes with dowels and attaching the nut with glue.

Wow, an 87 Jem. Sick!!! Wish I had one. The 87 jem had a different neck. it was 19mm at the first fret. The Roadstar, RGs, and EXs were 17 mm thick. They were the same width tho. iirc

Just pull the break open without doing any more damage and squeeze as much titebond in the joint as you can with a needle. 36 hours should be good. It will break again anyway regardless of what you do. It's part of what one should expect if they're playing that neck. My 88 RG and 89 EX360 fm with the origial wiz necks have both broken and been repaired in that same spot a half dozen times between them. They've never split twice on the same repaired joint tho. If it makes him feel any better, it would have broken eventually even if the truss rod was never touched. If you want a real fix, build a new neck for it and don't drive bolts through your scarf joint on a paper thin neck. Damn that was a stupid design. Don't stnd on it. It will break. I don't care how good your glueup is. It will just split in a different spot.

That is my point exactly. The only possible way for the sound created to be equal is the absence of sound. Sort of like the only way for two fingerprints to be the same would be the absence of fingerprints. Frequency, Wavelength, Wavenumber, Amplitude, Intensity, Speed, Direction ! see my next response In simple terms. Sound is waves of pressure created by the movement of energy through matter. If the matter is changed, even in the slightest, the result is different. e=mc2 Frequency, Wavelength Wavenumber Amplitude Intensity Speed Direction The united states military and various research groups have done extensive research on the human body's ability to interpret sound. Note I say the "human body's" ability. All human interpretation of sound is not sourced at the ear drum. Sound, especially in the higher range can be detected from waves of sound passing through the body. I said in some cases because the difference in sound produced by an electric guitar may or may or not always be percievable by a human. Can a human hear a dog whistle? Yes, the person blowing the whistle can sometimes hear it. Other sound is produced in the act of blowing the whistle, like the vibration of the cheeks or air bouncing back off of the blowers face. A person 15ft away may not be able to hear it. So do i think you are correct? No, I know you are not considering a guitar will actually sound different to the person playing a particular insturment than one standing next to him for similar reasons. I'm not trying to bust your balls man. most people in their first year of their <insert field> Science Major go through this. Your experiment is too complex, try to find simpler ways of providing the same results, that's all I was saying.

It is physically impossible for two wood instruments to create the exact same "sound", unless they are played in a vacuum. There are more properties to sound than frequency. bartbrn's experiment is flawed since there is no constant. There is more than one way to skin a cat though. You can already mathematically prove that no two wooden solid body guitars will produce the same sound. Thanks Einstein! You just need to monitor brain activity in a controlled group of test subjects when exposed to different combinations of sound properties. Most of that data is already available. Thanks US Army! Anyway, yes humans are physically capable of distinguishing the difference in "sound" between two unamplified solid body guitars in some cases.

Made perfect sense RAD! Thanks for posting. It makes it so much simpler to get the joint level when you're only dealing with one face of the joint at a time instead of two pieces of wood stacked on top of each other. I tried it last night. Freaking brilliant time saver even with a hand plane instead of a jointer. Thanks again man!