mikhailgtrski

+1 We all have to start somewhere. Nothing wrong with a parts guitar.

If you don't go back and edit your pics, the mods will change the excess/oversize images into links.

All mahogany or maple top/mahogany back?

Nice! But you're only allowed one pic per post (640x480 maximum size), the rest need to be links.

I thought that flame stuff was boring? (hijacking Drak's thread here http://www.projectguitar.com/uploads/emoticons/default_biggrin.png' alt=':D'> ) You need to use a pretty strong mix on your stain (i.e. 1:5 Colortone to H20). The "normal" ratio on the label won't do it. Depends on the look you want, but the sandback won't look dark enough until you get some finish on it, then it darkens up and starts looking nice and deep. And Drak will tell you not to use black unless you're doing a red or blue stain... black under anything with yellow/amber in it will give you a greenish tinge. Mike

You'll need to upload your pics to a server - if your ISP gives you storage, use that. Otherwise upload them to a picture hosting site like photobucket.com, etc. Then you click on the insert image or insert link button when you compose your message. A box will pop up with a place to insert the url for your image. I'm real careful to not allow the nitro fumes to build up to a hazardous level. I'm an electrician, so I'm familiar with proper explosion proof wiring. Some day when I build my garage I'll do a for real spray booth. But for now it's tarps and window fans and no open flames. I don't recommend it for those who don't understand the hazards.

Nice find! Here's what a VIP can look like: mikhail's project I recarved the lower cutaway (couldn't do the full PRS cut due to the hollow cavity), added the control knob recesses, and drilled for string-through. I had Warmoth place the index marks for the TOM bridge. BTW - I spent the extra $150 for AAAAA flame.

I had the same problem with the salesman not fully explaining their policy up front, but it was really my fault for not being clear that I was planning to do a PRS copy. I don't fault them for not wanting to copy anybody. I understand that they got a few calls from PRS when their VIP model was introduced. Warmoth has had to cut back on the "custom shop" aspect of their business as they've morphed into more of a production house, in order to stay competitive in the marketplace. Used to be I could drop by their shop and talk face-to-face with them and put my hands on the actual product. Now it's just telephone/internet sales. But the quality is still excellent. I ended up doing my own mods to their standard VIP product to get the look I wanted. Like I said, even if you draw it up, they won't do it if it's a copy, or close to it. The reason they insist on a hard copy full-scale drawing from you is to avoid communication problems that might result in you being dissatisfied with the final product. I'm guessing they learned this one the hard way. I found a decent headstock pic and resized it to match the nut width, then I tweaked it from there until it looked right. It wasn't a straight-on shot, but it worked for me - mine's not an exact copy anyway. If you need an exact replica, best get a buddy to distract the sales people at Guitar Center while you trace the outline. I don't think they'd care all that much anyway. It's best to get the tuners lined up so you get a straight path from the nut slot. Takes a bit of measuring and fiddling to get them just right. Again, make sure you reference the locations off your center line. Mike

I was wondering the other day if we'd ever see another one emerge from The Castle... and here we go - and a non-Tele to boot! Beautiful work!

Actually, if it's too close of a copy they won't do it, even if you supply the diagram. I gave them a PRS layout and it was vetoed by Mr. Warmoth himself. Thanks - yes, I did my own abalone inlay - my first attempt at doing inlay work. edit: It's not that difficult to cut your own - just establish your center line and carefully copy your layout onto the paddlehead. Double-check your dimensions off the line to make sure it's centered/aligned/symmetrical before you start cutting. I used a coping saw and cleaned it up with a rasp and sandpaper. Much easier if you have a bandsaw or jigsaw handy.

Exactly what I did, although I decided to stretch it slightly.

Warmoth will not do a custom headstock for you if your design is a copy of PRS (or any other patented shape that they're not licensed for). They will sell you a paddlehead neck, and you can cut out whatever headstock shape you want - which is what I ended up doing: Mike

When I stop posting, then you'll know I've blown myself up.

Ahem... I resemble that remark!

Not sure what you're meaning, Maiden... But, yes, I've temporarily converted one of my attic rooms into a spray booth of sorts. It's sealed off from the rest of the house, the fans maintain negative pressure and continuously exhaust all the fumes outside, and I use a proper spray mask. You wouldn't know I was up there if it weren't for the compressor kicking in occasionally. Just like spraying outside without the outside part. (caveat - Now, I don't recommend everyone go converting their attic rooms, but it works for me for a short-term project. Plus, I'm out in the country, sort of.)

neck

I've heard it's a very tough sealer... I'm guessing you'd damage the veneer in the process of chemical stripping. Plus, thin veneers generally don't accept dye very well. Not much wood there to absorb the dye, and the glue used to attach the veneer soaks into the wood fibers to some degree.

A word of caution - if any of your stain is alcohol-soluble, you have to be very careful spraying/wiping on shellac. The alcohol in the shellac tends to re-dissolve the stain, possibly ruining your perfect dye job. Mike

For a carved top, a foam rubber backing pad works (available at autobody supply houses). Aniline dyes (both alcohol and water based) will not work on sealed wood. I'd say you could sand off the sealer, down to bare wood, except it's most likely a thin veneer... probably next to impossible to remove all the sealer without ruining the veneer. You're better off spraying tinted clearcoats. Mike

Those must be really light coats if you're getting 9 coats out of a can and a half of lacquer. You'll need to build quite a bit more finish to avoid sand-throughs, especially if you didn't seal it first. Nitrocellulose finishing schedule I recommend you check out this tutorial for finishing with rattlecan lacquer: Dan Erlewine spray can finishing (clearcoating starts on page 3). Mike

+2 90% of your sound is in your hat fingers. That being said, if the wood doesn't make any difference, why aren't we all playing plexiglas or metallic guitars? Of course, too much gain on your amp will make pretty much anything you plug into it sound the same.

With some valuable assistance from Drak I got my lacquer/thinner/retarder ratios sorted out, and now the lacquer is laying down like glass. The dust/lint problem seems to be under control now - I put a small HEPA air purifier in my "spray booth"... and I also figured out that my "meat hook" (a length of threaded rod with a turnbuckle and hook, attached to the ceiling via a toggle bolt) was causing little bits of gypsum dust to fall on my work when I swiveled it around. A little masking tape at the ceiling attachment took care of that. I'll come back and post a pic when I find the camera... Mike

Drak, you are the master! I added 1/2 tsp. retarder to 4 oz. thinner + 4 oz. lacquer, 35 psi on the detail gun... It's flowing out very nicely. Getting a good wet look in 3-4 medium-slow passes with minimal orange peel. Now, if I could just solve the dust/lint problem... Thanks for your help. Mike

The finishing experts here (I'm not one of them) might want to know: -what are you spraying? (nitro, poly, etc.) -what's the psi setting? -was it contaminated before you installed the trap and could the hose and gun still be contaminated? -what have you been using to wipe the body down? -is this a refinish, and did it ever have silicone-based polish applied? Sounds like fisheye, but I can't say for sure.

Hmm... I've never had a problem hitting my 5-way. Still, say if you want to switch quickly from playing rhythm in the 2-position (n+m) to playing lead on the bridge p/u, you have to flip the 3-way plus operate the push/pull pot. Sounds like one operation more than is really necessary, all while you're simultaneously mashing a stompbox/midi pedal and trying to remember what key you're in. But to each his own, it's a player preference thing.