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mikhailgtrski

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Everything posted by mikhailgtrski

  1. mikhailgtrski
    Who knows? You'd think he'd know the difference between wood grain and a wear mark. This lack of clarity stuff can make your head hurt. Not to mention trying to diagnose a neck bow off that photograph.
  2. mikhailgtrski
    That "circular pattern" is the normal grain of the maple. It's usually more noticeable before the dye is applied. When the top is dyed the flame/quilt figure becomes more prominent and you don't notice the grain lines. But not always - it varies from piece to piece.
  3. mikhailgtrski
    Yes! Bone nuts & saddles make a huge difference. My son's mid-70's Epiphone acoustic sounded pretty good with the stock plastic stuff, but it really came to life and had much better sustain when he swapped them out with bone, plus some bone bridge pins for good measure. Mike
  4. mikhailgtrski
    You should find a lot of info if you do a search for "purfling".
  5. mikhailgtrski
    +1 Agreed - adjusting it with the strings off (unless it's a heel-adjust neck, then you don't have a choice) will have you chasing your tail. And it may take a little time to settle in after you make an adjustment. I'd avoid going more than 1/4 turn at a time. Are you checking it with a straight edge? Don't just rely on sighting down the neck.
  6. mikhailgtrski
    This should work (humbuckers or single coils, doesn't matter)... except you'll have to insert the kill switch, and you'll probably want 500k pots: three p/u schematic Hope that helps. Mike
  7. mikhailgtrski
    No, not yet... I spent a lot of hours on the fingerboard inlay (it's done now - is there such a thing as inlay fatigue ) then went on vacation for 2 1/2 weeks in July, and didn't get back to guitar building until late October. I did some dye tests last week, and hope to have it nailed down this weekend. I'll try to get some pics posted very soon. Thanks, it's cool to have people interested in your stuff. Mike
  8. mikhailgtrski
    Yeah, I think that router bit is over $50, so I bought a 1" forstner for $9. Did the trick, just more work. Plus I was a bit nervous about using that cove bit on my carved top. ps - here's that egg cup bit: 40mm egg cup bit
  9. mikhailgtrski
    Ah, yes... PRS has updated their site now. Here's the real tortoise shell: PRS tortoise shell McCarty PRS tortoise shell I like it a lot Can't believe it's December already. Mike
  10. mikhailgtrski
    Try your local auto body shop - they should carry several types of pinstriping tape.
  11. mikhailgtrski
    For what it's worth, from Stew-Mac: Stewart-MacDonald Super Glues have a relatively long shelf life at room temperature: a bottle will be usable for up to a year, although the glue will thicken as the months go by. Once it is too thick for its original use, you can use it on other projects requiring a thicker glue. For longer storage, keep unopened bottles in the freezer. Store partially-used bottles at room temperature: used bottles contain moist air from your workroom, which condenses and reduces shelf life. Always keep the bottles upright when not in use. Accelerator needs no special storage, but avoid high temperatures and keep the cap tightly sealed.
  12. mikhailgtrski
    The forstner bit worked well. Cleaned it up with a rounded dremel high-speed cutter, then lots of sanding. Thanks again, mattia - your pics were worth a thousand words. Mike
  13. mikhailgtrski
    The pickup touching the wood shouldn't cause any problems at all. In fact, some people prefer to mount them directly to the wood.
  14. mikhailgtrski
    Thanks, mattia, that helps a lot. BTW - nice save on the worm damage. Mike
  15. mikhailgtrski
    I forgot that one was yours... I love it and I thought it should have won GOTM! That's exactly what I'm trying for... if I have enough wood to work with. What size forstner did you use? thanks!
  16. mikhailgtrski
    +1 I just got one of these and my frets pressed in really nice - my first time. It's all about the prep work, like guitarfrenzy said. Spend the time on prep and the actual fretting is no big deal.
  17. mikhailgtrski
    Thanks for the input... Definitely scrap scrap scrap. Warmoth routes the control cavities on their carved tops to match the top radius, so I've got to figure out how much wood they left me to work with. mattia, do you have pics posted anywhere? Mike
  18. mikhailgtrski
    Yup, something like that, except it's AAAAA flame. Did you use the router bit after the top was carved? Can I pull this off safely (with practice) on my drill press?
  19. mikhailgtrski
    If you're spraying nitro (with a gun) you can mix in some blue dye. It won't have the same figure-popping effect as staining the wood directly - it will be more of a toner. Try it out on some scrap, dyed the same as what you've got so far, unless you feel lucky just going for it. Hope it works out for you, Mike
  20. mikhailgtrski
    That's subject to lots of debate... Unless you're talking about a really, really thick clearcoat, I don't think it makes a noticeable difference on a solid body. It takes a lot of practice to do a super-thin finish without sanding through into your stain. You don't want to sand through. That means you sand it all back and start over, unless you don't mind the blotches. Hope it turns out well. Mike
  21. mikhailgtrski
    Is that the plywood Squier? I think 2 or 3 applications of grain filler should do it. I'm assuming you're doing a solid color? Or what Setch said.
  22. mikhailgtrski
    I'm getting good results with the clear Stew-Mac waterbase filler. Easy to apply and you can dye it any color you want. $14.65/pint. woodcraft.com and woodworker.com have Behlens and other brands, but they're not any less expensive. A local specialty woodworking store might carry it - but most regular paint stores and Lowe's/Home Depot don't cater to furniture-type finishers. Your average homeowner isn't doing much grain filling.
  23. mikhailgtrski
    Would I be asking for trouble using this method on a really nice, already carved flame top? Visions of maple chunks dance in my head. Mike
  24. mikhailgtrski
    Wheewww... thankfully just a slight tightening of the truss rod straightened it right out. Frets pressed in nice and they look good on the straight edge.
  25. mikhailgtrski
    From Warmoth's site: "As a final note on the subject, maple necks require a finish to preclude neck warpage. The finish is sprayed directly over the frets. It is a tedious task to remove the finish and in many production guitars, it is simply left on them to wear off in use… A fret leveling operation will take this off or the finish may be scraped off each individual fret. Warmoth does not offer either fret leveling or paint removal services." Not worth the trouble of masking.
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