demonx

Some finished pics of Daynes SS6: 1 piece Flame Maple handcarved Neckthru Scarf jointed Flame Maple headstock Handcarved Rimu bookmatched top African Mahogany body Ziricote fingerboard Tiger Myrtle Binding White side dots - Small Kahler 7300 Hybrid Floyd Rose Lock nut Grover Straplock system Grover Tuners - Black Block control knobs 3 mini switches to toggle pickups on/off CTS volume pot 500k CTS Push pull Tone 500k Bareknuckle Crawler humbucker - Bridge Bareknuckle Mothers Milk - Middle Bareknuckle Mothers Milk - Neck 25.5" scale 16" radius 24 frets Recessed bridge More pics here: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.557762274305611.1073741846.122774891137687&type=1

You should put this build thread on ANZ, there needs to be more Aussie electric guys posting there to balance the place out

Looking good. Tight inlays!

Coming along nicely!

Thanks for the kind words. As for this ink blot, what I see is a gym fit woman, from behind, bending over, arms either side, you can see the muscle in her lower back and both her holes. Those seeing a dogs arse as opposed to that, well, I'm not going there!

Yes, I do. Makes for a better feeling neck in my opinion. Have to be very careful though when there's binding that you don't carve through the bottom of it. My necks are pretty thin (19mm at the nut) and I like to take more off the edges than most others, so I need to carve/shape the edge like this or it feels like a flat spot to your hand and at the end of the day the neck is all about how it feels to your hand.

Ummm, not quite sure what to make of that. I'd hate to see what your report would be after a ink blot test session!

I decided Daynes SS6 clear wasn't up to scratch, to I sanded it back and sprayed again. This pic is of the second wet sand process (cut) before the polish: Here it is in the rack along with a few others on the go at the moment: I picked up this piece of Aussie timber, anyone with a dirty mind will find a bit of a picture in there! This one will become a superstrat late this year or next year. This pic was taken before I sanded and resprayed: I'm still drooling over this Tiger Myrtle binding:

I'd over reduce the white basecoat by a large percentage, spray that and then spray clear. I've done this often but never with white. Very much the same as what Sully said above but cheaper as in reducer is much, much cheaper than blender (aka untinted base) and it'll return the same result. You'd start off with a light coat and then spray layers until it was the consistency you want. Then clear as normal.

DAVID'S SS7 WORKHORSE African Mahogany neckthru African Mahogany body wings Indian Rosewood fingerboard Kahler bridge Grover tuners Grover straplocks Bareknuckle Painkiller Ceramic Set Switchcraft output jack Switchcraft selector switch CTS pot Coil tap on tone 16" radius 26.125" scale with 24 frets Logo burned into the headstock with a branding iron Danish Oil finish Carved Top

I can't even remember what the question was, I'm just super jealous you've got slabs of awesome looking figured maple.

A quick video for the Bareknuckle users: http://youtu.be/lbVJDo8n6qQ

Quick update, Mathews E7 has just passed it's final "distressing" stage, not going for a trashed look, just a worn look. Dayne's SS6 is cleared, cut and polished: This pic was taken whilst the clear was still wet in the paint room: This pic I took today after cut and polishing the neck:

Thanks, glad you like it! This one was sold before it started, was a customer order. His second "Searls Guitar"

It's strange thing for you to say as I posted that one to "make up numbers" thinking no-one would vote for it being its pretty ordinary (spec wise), not flashy enough timbers and certainly too "metal" to win a comp like this, I was kind of right.

I've had my Dragon Rasp for maybe a year now. I can tell you I'm still very happy with it, however it feels like It's due for a sharpen or replacement. I really use the end tip a lot, the taper of it is perfect for the shapes I carve and I look at many other files and don't see the same usability for me. Other files have the taper, but its an aggressive one at the end, not transitioned all the way. I also find myself using the curved rear quite often, very very handy.

Normally anything mainstream wins these contests, like Tele's and Les Paul's that have figured timber and mainstream style hardware (pretty much the opposite of anything I build!) I cannot remember anything oddball ever winning. Also, as a general rule, if you think you're going to win, you won't!

A tough crowd. I've been posting there for a couple years now and have still not sold one guitar through that site (that I know of).

killemall8: First of all, I hate TOM bridges, I think they have the ability to make the highest end guitars look like $100 pieces of chinese crap. Obviously your build doesnt look chinese, but I'm sure you get my meaning. All the workmanship looks great, your spin on the timeless shape works well and it looks like an all over great guitar I'm sure many out there would love to own. Wix: Can't tell much from the pics so cannot comment on build quality. It does look like the bridge pickup is slanted, not sure if thats gunslinger intentional or not. bigdguitars: Looks like you have a lot of time in this build, I know this as I've made chopping boards before. Sounds harsh I know and RAD has already made a comment on the same lines, but I'm sorry, everytime I see a lam guitar like this thats what it looks like. All that aside, the craftsmanship looks great, the fingerboard and the position markers look great. I'm sure you're proud and you should be. demonx: I chose this guitar as I didn't think anyone would vote for it. Rad commented on the branded logo, well, I just wanted to try something I had never seen done before, but apparently I'm not the pioneer in this area I thought I was as the place I had make the branding Iron told me they'd also made one for Fender. Technology4Musicians: Soooo not my cup of tea but there is a big place in the market for these sort of builds and I'm sure this would do well in it's own scene. All work looks flawless and I'm sure it's already sold. RestorationAD: You don't need me to blow smoke up your arse, we both know you build great guitars. Pretty sure I've told you but I'll say it again in case I forgot, a couple guys local to me (one I just hired as my new "New Guy") have both played a build of yours whilst they were on tour and both said it was great.

It's not about the looks, it's about the comfort. It's simply something I can't explain with photos, you'd have to physically feel one of my heels joints.

Here's a quick snapshot of the E7 I'm working on at the moment. This is raw stain, still no finish as yet.

The Explorer is cool, however the way that the lower horn is shaped it is hard to get a nice feeling neck heel. Took a bit of extra attention.

Can you PM me what you were hoping to get for the quilt top along with its dimensions Thanks.

Looks pretty beat up. Even the fret slots look like crap. I would just use an off cut clamped into a vice with a piece of paper under to catch the wood that falls while I file away. You'll get bigger chunks than if you sanded. Mix that with epoxy, more wood than epoxy, you don't want it too runny. I would not use dye or anything else mixed in. If you've got enough dust in the mix, it provides the color.

Starting a section for public source (legal) shapes is a brilliant idea.