jsullysix

Looks very cool, Doug!

Thanks Stu! My original plan was to do a bit of an offset carve that would follow the point, but when modeled up, it just didn't look good. Sully

Thanks man! I'm looking forward to a carved version as well!

ScottR, I recently read something similar (being from the same tree). I've got a bunch more of "black" limba with a lot of mineral streaking, but thankfully, no wormholes so far. Sully

I send raw wood, but I believe that some people do send base coats, too.

I appreciate the compliment! As far as the big arse end, I have a feeling it's an illusion; it actually fits inside a Les Paul case. I definitely see what you're saying though, but I'm glad you like it. The stripe definitely needed to be showcased! I like it too. The body is for sure black limba, while the neck wood was labeled as white limba. I think it's all black, because it matches so nicely. Glad you like the video for the theme song; Dee J was actually just interviewed for Guitar World and there's a nice pic of him with his Galaxy V here. He's got a new Sully as well; a proto of a tele styled body. It's still pointy at heart, though! Ah, thanks man! Happy to have been of service. Thanks! I know it's not for everyone, but I have noticed that it does tend to grow on you. Mike Learn is a pal, but he'll paint for anyone who pays him to do so. Look him up and tell him I sent you; you'll be glad you did! Thanks Doug, and thanks for the great inlay work! Thanks!

Thanks man! Sully

Definitely a lot of great looking stuff in here! Very impressive. Sully

Hi everyone, it's been a long while since I've posted, but I do drop in from time to time. About 3-4 years ago, I bought an abandoned Les Paul project and did a video series of its renovation. I had always wanted a Les Paul (Ace got me started as a kid), but I never really bonded with the ones that I'd owned in the past. I figured that I could refinish and repair this particular guitar and that'd be the be all, end all LP for me. I learned a lot during that process, and the most important lesson was why I never bonded with Les Pauls; the scale doesn't work for me, and I'd like a bit more ergonomics; especially around the neck joint. ....So I started drawing over a picture of a Les Paul. I wanted to make my own version, but with a 25.5 scale, and more contours on the back of the body. I drew and drew and drew, and eventually made a few templates that were kinda there, but not quite. This went on for a couple of years. I had plenty of other guitars to build, so I'd just come back to this one every now and again until I was happy with the final design. I got some Black Limba locally and got to work. The first Sully '71 (I was born in 1971) has a Black Limba body, 3pc Black Limba neck, Rosewood fretboard, Stainless Steel jumbo frets, Tone Pros Tune-o-matic bridge, Habanero classic pickups (made by GJ2), one volume knob, one toggle switch. Here's what came out of it: Bodies drawn out on the blank: 3pc neck cut up, ready for clamps Out of the clamps, post-jointer, but pre-headstock ears Gluing the fretboard on to the neck blank One down, one to go (that I still have yet to do) Neck backshape complete Time to bust out the microplane and get contouring! Or...."the last thing the hobo ever saw...." Penciling in the back contours Back contouring Bevels on the face Gluing the neck in Additional body work done, as you can see. And the back Thanks to Doug for the excellent inlay work! Now off to the lovely and talented Mike Learn for finish! In the clear! (seewhatIdidthere?) New "sully signature" logo I love stingers! Assembly begins Filed the nut slots and strung it up! I still have to set the intonation and I believe that'll be it. I plan on filming a demo video after the holidays are over. Overall, I like it. With any prototype, there are things that will change with the second (and third) one, but I'm glad I waited as long as I did with the design. Also looking forward to a full on carved top version, but that'll happen later. The second prototype is well underway and features a mahogany body and neck, flamed maple top, ivoroid binding, ebony fretboard, a wraparound bridge, and the rest is kinda TBD. Anyway, thanks for checking it out, and I hope you like it, too. Sully

note to self....limit rambling in videos!

I'm all for people selling their builds and all, but how is this not an outright copy of an Ormsby? Sully

mm bodies and necks are okay. the body that i had had a decent finish, but not as nice as warmoth's. the neck pocket was a little loose with the mm neck. the warmoth body and neck fit as they should; nice and tight. mm necks are a decent deal if you find them cheap enough (they can be had for $70ish) and can dress frets and file nut slots. i can say that the mm guitar that i had sounded amazing; heavy ash will do that, i guess!

allparts makes them. i've only seen chrome and black, though.

thanks guys... i have read that the createx has to be done in very thin coats, so i figured that if anything, i'd use my detail spray gun for it. they do have some neat colors, and they also seem to be a little bit less money than some of the automotive urethanes i'm using. that's not to say that i'm trying to be a cheapass or anything, but i'm open to options that work well. sully

cool, thanks guys. i wouldn't shoot it under lacquer; i use automotive urethanes, so i'm guessing i'll be fine. sully

hey, i was on a site that offered createx and auto air paints. looks like that they're mainly used for graphics, as the site was airbrush specific. i'm assuming they'd be fine to shoot through automotive grade spray guns, no? sully

dowel and redrill.

a less intrusive way to get ebony to shine (without spraying clear or epoxy, etc on int) is to get the board nice and clean, then hit it with minwax paste wax. apply per instructions, and buff the bejeezus out of it with a 6" orbital hand buffer (available for about $20 at home depot). ebony buffs up really nicely, and you won't have to put clear or anything else on it. it'll still feel like a nice and smooth wood fretboard, but it'll shine like it's been clear coated. that's what i use on the backs of unfinished necks, and it gives the wood a nice protection, but retains the feel of an unfinished neck. sully

wow, was that stained black and sanded back, first? looks very nice! sully

the stuff that TNT sells are all mighty mite parts. fwiw. sully

i have that compressor; thankfully there's a harbor frieght near me, so i just drove over and bought it. it hasn't given me any hassle yet. i'm a little unclear on the psi thing that was posted; i didn't know that you run 40 psi at the tank, but less at the gun. i've been running 40 psi everywhere. more info, please! sully

heh. the jcf certainly could be a full time job. i mainly don't post on the mcs board unless i've got something to add, or a question. i hope he adds more to the neck thru thread that he's got goin. that was a great read. sully

hey all, i've got a guitar body that i've drilled for a TOM bridge. i'm about to drill the holes for the stop bar, and i've got a distance that i'd LIKE to use (covers a flaw in the top..heh). my question is: is the stop tail placement crucial at all? as long as the string path is straight from the stop tail to the TOM/saddle, i can't imagine why it would be. i've got a diagram (from the stewmac site) that shows the treble side should be 2 3/16" (on center) apart from the treble side TOM post (on center) and 1 15/16" (on center) apart from the bass side TOM post (also on center). this looks very far away, so i measured a few other guitars i have, and the spacing between the TOM and stop tail piece is much shorter. granted, those other guitars are 24 3/4 scale, but i don't see how it should make a difference on intonation, as the string length is determined at where the string breaks over the saddle. so... whaddya think? thanks, sully

thanks again, guys! newc, go to reranch.com...they have the stuff there, and there's plenty o' directions. sully

thanks brian... i'm thinkin that if i treat the top with danish oil, buff the excess off, and repeat the process over 4 days, that should get rid of it, no? sully