Guitarfrenzy

hello again, For our guitar we are going with a burst paint job, blue face with a black edge and all black back. my question is which colour to put down first, and why?? Do your color base coat first, then your black burst last.

Very neat design I like it. I think that if you use oak it's going to be very, very heavy though. You might want to chamber it out so it's lighter.

I agree with Setch. What about glued on fingerboards, can we do that too or is the glue going to destroy our sound? I think that there are tons of other things that affect your tone more than if the wood is glued together. I would love to see the data that supports the theory that wood glue will effect the tone enough for you to even be concerned with.

If your going to use lacquer, may I suggest staying away from acrylic lacquer, and use nitro lacquer instead if at all possible. It's much better in my opinion.

Speaking of Grizzly, I just received the new 2006 book in, and I'm kinda disappointed that they didn't step up their luthier products this year. Also, they're not going to put out a Luthiers Catalog anymore, because they told me that it was all in the 2006 big catalog. The wait for that bandsaw should be worth it. But, I know I'd be anxious myself to get it in, if I had one on order.

Exactly! Reading is the key to learning, and the books mentioned above are pretty much the standard as far as getting into building guitars. The internet is also a huge source to learn from. When you start your build and have questions, go to the search feature here and seach for the answer. There's been a lot of things covered on this site, as it is a wealth of information, and you will more than likely, find any answer you need by doing a simple search. Also, don't forget the Project Guitar home page, tutorial sections!! They will help you also. Just become a student of the craft and soak as much information you can up, so that when you do get ready to build, you will know what to buy and when to buy it. Don't do like I did, and try to buy up every tool that Stew Mac sells right off the bat.. lol Buy them as you need them so you don't have to go around eating ramon noodle because your broke.. haha Anyway, good luck on all your projects!! Matt Vinson

Wow, that was pretty much the single most intelligent thing I've heard outta that guy.

Ok, hands up, who here wears Nikes? But I read an interview with Gibson's CEO that their sales went way up once they started raising the prices on their guitars. And every time they raise the price, they sell more guitars. I can believe that. The kids out there see that high dollar price on a guitar, and are convinced that it's better because of it. Then they bug their parents until they buy them one.. lol I'm not saying Gibson doesn't make high quality instruments, but that's the way marketing is and they are smart for capitalizing on it. It reminds me of what Howard Stern said one time when they asked him how it felt to be the King Of All Media. His reply was along these lines," we'll I noticed that Elvis declared himself as the King of Rock, everybody believed it, then Michael Jackson claimed he was the King of Pop, so I decided that I would claim to be the King Of All Media, and guess what, everyone believed me too." So, most of the time, a companies product is worth what they decide it is... lol

Exactly what I'd recommend!!! The Stew Mac shielding paint dries black like Russ said. Heck, watch the Wayne Guitar videos he shields everything that can't be seen.. lol

This link from Stew Mac should get you on the right track. Nut Making Step-by-Step... If you really want to learn a lot on making nuts for guitars and various guitars, definitely buy Dan Erelwine's Nut Making Video, it's great.

Are you taking the bridge height in to account, etc. ? Have you read the thread on "How To Determine A Neck Angle" by Perry yet? If not you need to research some more first before you decide on anything. The degree you came up with isn't too wild, although you need to make sure it's right for your guitar. Most are around 2° - 5° though.

Welcome to the forum Vinny. You have the right idea on the tool buying, get them as you need them.

Exactly what I've been doing for the longest time. link 1 link 2 link 3 link 4 You see some of the Robo-Sander wheels are slightly larger than they need to be exact flush with your template. Some would think this is a bad thing, but I found a way to use it for your benefit. When you use one like that it will leave a slight bit of wood left to be flush with the template, now you can use your router and flush trim pattern bit to finish it off smooth. So if you find one like that, use it to your advantage like mattia suggested.

That's very good for a first guitar, and making mistakes will only make you better. It's like they say, "the person who doesn't make a mistake, doesn't make anything." Very nice build, and beautiful guitar. How does it sound?

I don't know if anyone has posted the new Gibson guitars that have a mirror pickguard on it. I knew Mickguard must have something to do with this new development.. lol Gibson V-Factor link!! Gibson X-plorer You just thought pickguards was going away!!!!

Good question.. lol I actually don't remember myself, as I have all the sizes they sell. Usually the wider ones for straight sanding, and smaller one (2", or even 1" wide) for curvy sanding. I'm guessing by looking at the picture that your right though, it's definitely not the 1" wide one for sure. Yes, I do agree, if your only going to buy one, get the 2" wide.

Robo-Sander? What is that? lol Yeah, here's another vote for using a Robo-Sander with template. Especially the horn area, but depending on your contour, you might need a smaller size Robo-Sander to get into tight areas. Sanding the body edges isn't the only thing it's good at though.

Man, that guitar is awesome bro!! Great job. Oh, and by the way, the guitar should rock for sure with the Seymour pickups. I love that pickup combination myself also.

Hey, it's your guitar, if you like it, I say, go for it!!

This topic comes up from time to time, and it's just a debate that will probably go on forever. In an thread three years earlier, I pointed out what exact finish PRS uses on their guitars.. link!!! I have nothing against laquer, but it's just not for me either. I want a strong finish that will hold up for years to come, and not so thick that it might dampen the sound anymore than laquer would. I think if you use the auto poly correctly you can achieve both easily, and have done so in the past, time and time again. I would love to do a blindfold test, everything the same, but with one Fender sprayed with laquer, and the other with poly. How many people really think they'd hear the difference? I'm not saying laquer is a bad thing, just has too many disadvantages for me to use.

Ditto, the neck is very critical and the wood needs to be straight as can be. Wood that has a tendancy to bow or warp real bad, in my opinion, isn't a wood you want to use for a neck. If you do, use CF rods to stabilize it better. I'd just put it aside and get a better piece of wood that's straight if it was me. Why chance all your hard work, only to find that the neck wood later bowed and warped again a couple of years later.

I think Perry would do a great job of organizing this project.

Very nice pedal, but how does it sound? Got any audio samples? And yes, it would sound better in a Pine box, this one probably sounds like a canary, or maybe it's just a clever name for the wood? You should have called it Canary Singer Pedal..