MidnightLamp

new prices!

Marshall on hold!

I've built full featured 6 and 8 band analog mixers before. That kinda stuff is easily doable. For a board like that......eh.....it's hard..and expensive (think about it...most panel mount pots are like $3-5 each....how many are there in that pic?!?!). One thing to look up is simmilar behringer products, and modify them (usually involving gutting, or removing everything that's not rebuildable) to save money on parts like that and on some of the fancier digital DSP's etc.. Take a look at this one: http://www.behringer.com/SL3242FX-PRO/index.cfm?lang=ENG Peace.

Cool! I used to have the non laser version of that one. Just a word of advice, motors that craftsman put in are not the same duty as the 2/3 hp ones from other companies. Be very careful using sanding drums or other high stress applications as they can damage the motor easily (I burnt my first drill press (craftsman) that way.) Peace.

You know...from the looks of it, that's just a RRV (with reversed headstock) with a few different options? What's to stop you from going here: http://www.warmoth.com/guitar/bodies/radic...m?fuseaction=v2 -buying that body ($190) and having them add a lam top ($60 - $100) and just tell them the options you want. http://www.warmoth.com/guitar/necks/necks....kson_warmothpro -buy the neck and ask them to use your fretboard (Proli $150 or so plus installation costs for you) http://www.warmoth.com/paint/paint.cfm http://www.warmoth.com/paint/paint.cfm?fuseaction=necks -get it painted by them (probably going to be around $300 - $400) http://www.warmoth.com/paint/paint.cfm?fuseaction=necks -buy all the hardware from them To assemble all of that after it comes to you is a job for a ten year old, then just take the whole thing to a local music shop to have set up. If you're looking for a high-quality custom guitar for cheap...there's no way to do it. If you're looking for a high-quality guitar...why not just look at something like, or even just a stock guitar that kinda looks like what you want (take a look at the Alexi Laiho ESP model...looks like what you want minus the paintjob?). Just my $0.02

price lowered on pickup! All pictures work now!

Hey All, I've got a couple of things for sale, and just wanted to post em here in case anyone was interested. Firstly: -->Marshall MG15DFX practice amp Marshall's info on it. Zakk Wylde doing the whole endorsing thing. Details: 1x8" speaker 15 Watts FDD (tube emulating Stuff) DFX section (4 digital effects, Flange, Chorus, Delay, and Reverb) All analog signal path for distortion and preamp. Twin Channel (clean/distortion) Line Out (D.I) for recording Headphone Output Seperate Line Level Line In Full three band EQ (Bass, Treb, and a glorified mid control "contour" that basically let's you have more scoop than normal, or more mids than normal) Mugshot of Amp Another Mugshot Overhead View Rearend View Manual Condition: Almost brand new. Few Scuffs on the corners, but tolex is in perfect condition, and same with panel/knobs and speaker cloth. Sounds great also. SOLD -->EMG Telecaster Pickup Pickup Another Pic Back Asking Price: ON HOLD Condition: Bit beaten..works fine though...I just found this in my basement, and don't know where it's from. -->Handbuilt Bigbox 2x12 Cab Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 Picture 4 Rear 1 Rear2 2x12 cab that's much larger than normal (improved bass response), built out of birch ply, with a marine grade baltic birch front baffle. Full 3/4" rear baffle. Damn heavy cab with speakers. Sold as is (few dings on the corners etc..). Comes UNLOADED. No speakers included. Asking Price: $65 P.S. I apologize if the pics are too huge, tell me if they are so...I'm a bit camera happy with my new camera, and I haven't quite learned to use it yet!

yay...that's basically dead on right there...

ok ok...so he uses one of these: http://www.bhinet.com/inteq/Drilling/Ultra.htm Seriously though, this is kinda creeping me out! It's gotta be some really obvious way that we're totally overlooking. Cheers, Nish

Heck ya! (you really can never have too many routers). If you buy a second one...get a big one so that you can allot all the tasks that are difficult to it (bigger the better =P). Now for the bits themselves, you'd think they wear out fast, but if you're really good to them, then they'll last a long time. I only buy whiteside and freud bits as they are available locally (the freud) and they are cheap/good (the whiteside). Personally, I treat my bits like my children, clean them after every use, and drill out/rough cut everything before using them to minimize stress. So far, my freud bit is not even close to being dull, and my whiteside roundover's look almost new! Either way, with quality bits like those two, you can always resharpen. My bit collection current includes: 1/2" template (for everything), 1/2" x 2" pattern to finish the body outline, 1/8" roundover, 45deg campher (ya...I like pointy!), and one huge roundover for the neck carve. Came to about $100 for top quality stuff on all of those ($40 of which went towards the neck roundover) I personally just use robosander, because the pattern bit does a goot job for me, and I just run the body with the same template against a "custom" ( I just sprayed photomount on a cardboard cylinder, and put finishing grit on it) robosnader. for the fret caul, you just run it with the drill press off. You can buy them at any woodworking shop, or routerbits.com: http://www.routerbits.com/cgi-routerbits/s...390013_30963+28 good luck with setting up your shop, and welcome to the forum!

I'm currently on to building my third guitar, and have a lot of expensive tools, but can't afford the bits/blades for most of them to make them useful, so I tend to approach things from a very money concious angle and still produce good looking results. IMO, a setup to consider would be: Router: First and formost! You can almost build a whole guitar with one of these! Good starting bits: Roundover (I'd go with 1/8" or 1/16" for any ESP/jackson style guitars), pattern bit(bottom bearing), template bit(top bearing). I'd also go with a 1/2" shank, because it can then take the larger pattern bit's, and acts to trim the outline of the guitar well. Bandsaw/Scroll Saw: When access to my good bandsaw is not there, I use a scroll saw to cut the bodies out of wood. I don't particularly like using my table saw, as then I can only cut large rectantgles out of the wood I have, and it causes more wastage Drill Press: Finish sanding, any holes, etc... one of the most useful tools in my shop. With a drum sander and MDF table, works as a great body finishing tool Hand Sander: A nice 1/2 sheet sander will work great when it comes to finishing up the top of a guitar. Smaller Wood Tools: Planes (you can't just buy one...but a jack plane'll do...around here, you can get samona ones for about $20, and with a bit of work, and a new blade, these things'll work great! Spokeshaves are great for rough carving of a neck (I personally don't use mine much...) again, Samona ones go cheap, and work great if you can hone the blade well, and put a bit of work into it. Assorted Hand tools: rasps...files...etc etc... but again...ultimately, it depends on how you want to approach building your guitar.

YESSS!!!! I love blood wood!!! Great Job!

damn rob...I swear, I didn't even see your post! But ya...it seems like the only logical explanation to me.

whoa...think about visual fret buzz then! WHOA!!!! I just had an idea! Take a look at this image: (From his tour thing) PRS LED inlay See how he's soldering two wires?, would it be possible for him to drill two small channels through the fretboard (using those special ultra long drills bits you see at hardware shops sometimes), and just like the wiring channels on the body of a guitar, just drill holes from the fret dot holes to the channels? just a possibility....

My bad there. I have to repeat though, great job! I sell amps, but I don't have the woodworking skills to build a nice cab like that (I got one as a kit once, raw and unfinished and tried to tolex it)....5 hours and a new glue covered capet (spilled a litre of contact cement..), and I just gave up and trashed the thing.

nice job! Really clean look. those are finger joints btw.

it's free...but damn good: Kristal Audio Engine

that's just...........really hard to see? (either that or this whole getting old thing is kicking my butt again) As a stab at it, I see you might mean a tuneomatic with a V shaped plate. If this is the brige: http://www.ronnynorth.com/flying%20v%20shoot.jpg then the first shiny piece is a tune-o-matic bridge piece: Here! The Golden V...is just that...a gold colored metal V. The string go through the body and have ferrules on the other side, and the V just replaces top mounted ferrules that are traditionally used. I don't know of anywhere to buy one of these, but you could try any gibson parts retailer.

I was talking a little more practical. For instance I have a block I use for drilling the access hole for a fender style trussrod. Ii is basically a hole drilled in an aluminum block at the proper angle. The cool thing is that when you put the hand drill's bit in the hole it will follow the angle an drill the perfect hole. The principle for a right angle drill guide is the same. And easier to build. I'm gonna scrap my earlier suggestion and go with that one for sure. I completely forgot about drilling masks like that (and I should've remembered...I paid a good $30 for my one for tube amp boards).

I would seriously consider the Marshall MG's, they're absolutely great amps. I used to own a MG15DFX for a little break room amp, until it got stolen, and then I still went out and bought another one, because my opinion was that the line 6 amps (the spider 2's) didn't hold a match to the tone of these things. I'd say give it a look: http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Mar...-Amp?sku=483189 http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Mar...mbo-?sku=483190 Cheers, Nish

rig up a drill press jig using a cordless drill and some steel sheets/tubing...then you get an unlimited swing press.

Freud

I cut out a Vigier Marilyn body out of 2" thick cherry with no major problems on my scroll saw. Took me about 50 mins to do the whole thing. The only thing was, I went through about 3 blades (mine were rather thin, low tpi blades). The closest equivilent I could find (I have an old craftsman scroll saw) to what I have is this: http://www.deltamachinery.com/index.asp?e=136&p=929 The only real consideration you have to take when using a scroll saw is the size of the body and the way you cut it if you have a smaller saw, as the arm of the saw limits the way you can cut.

I just bought one, they're absolutly wonderful. Don't expect all too much from plugging right into this thing, but if you chunk out $114 Canadian (here) and buy yourself a shure SM58 mic, you've got an amazing sounding recording inteface for a lot less than it should be.

Not for most of it. Surfcam, Mastercam...any other real reputable cad/cam software that will mill anything complex like archtops etc... all come with hardware keys...ex) HASP (key that plugs into the parallel port) for mastercam, etc... Cheers, Nish