krazyderek

i tried going the warmouth rout... first trying to buy the wire and i got "we only install SS wire on our necks". i replied with.. what about if i sent u the neck and u did it? once again i got "we only install SS wire on our necks" finaly i explained it was for a custom neck that was being painted and made to fit a special guitar and they couldn't make it, so telling them the special circomstances i thought they'd understand and guess what my reply was? "i don't think you understand sir, we are only able to install the stainless steel fret wire on necks that are made in our factory due to our contract with the supplier of the stainless steel" couldn't they just tell me that in the first place?

holly rock bottom prices batman!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! oh right the radius thing.... well i've tried it on a neck and... i duno i'm still kinda iffy on weather not i like it... i mean i think i did a fairly good job... but.. well right now the neck is "doing it's thing" for a month or so cause i'm lazy *cough* i mean cause the wood needs to relax!!... but i think from now on i'll be sticking to 10-14 constant radiuses..

i'd loveto use my router or dremel but there's going to be continualy changing depths... so even if i did take the time to make the template for it or routed it very carefully by hand, i'd have to fingure out someway to control depth acurately on the fly i guess i could fig up a different set of shims for each carving but... that sounds kinda tricky basswood...hmm really? i figured it would be among the worst for tearing cause it's so soft, but i'lll give it a try.

Well..... bored once again due to unemployment and an "active" social life... i've come up with another crazy gutar design. The design requires extensive/completely carving the top and back of the guitar body, kinda like that guy that carves the dragons into guitar bodys... umm.. someoneposted it here a week or 2 ago, (not just like a regualr carved top guitar) anyways, i'm just woundering what would be the best wood to use for this? I did some experimentaion on some lacewood i had left over and i was getting some.. chipping and teadr out if i was going either completely with the grain or completely perpendicular to it (because of the design i can't really carve the in the correct direction all the time). I kinda want to use mahogany for the tone, but does the open grain tend to tear alot if ur not carving with the grain? (i'm going to be using hand carving chisels to do all the work) and I'm thinking a dense closed grain wood would be the best... but what would u guys sujest? The best thing i've worked with to date seems to be bloodwood, but that stuff seems heavy for a body, and i've read that it's "highly toxic" so would i have to wear a resperator if i was doing hand carving with chisels?

ok i'm confused about herners prices, cause it says so it's 55$ just to press them into a neck, no level dress crown or polish? If u send them a neck and want the whole 9 yards for a bolt on it's 205 + 95 = 300$? And If we wana just buy the wire it's 55 + 35 = 90$? .... and these are US prices? (the following is intended as a helarious rant) While i'm at it why don't i just get all the hardware triple plated with real gold! and hey, what about some 24 carrot dimond inlays on a carbon fiber fingerboard, with of course a titanium truss rod behind it and the neck(thru) would have to be made entirely of Ebony Mascascar.... Then send my little neck over to these guys for a 300$ stainless steel fretjob...all told that's a meer 675$ JUST FOR A NECK!!! WOOOHOO

i figured they would, my regular frets already eat thru strings like u guys wouldn't beleive!!!!! So i can't decide weather i should try the SS out on a neck or not thanks for pointing out somewhere to get them Brian!! but that's quite a bit more then regular frets cost!!! Does that 50% off thing apply to fretwire? if so ur better off buying them 2 sets at a time... rhoads56 ..... what kind of price range do u think u'll have if u can close that deal?

guitar nuts "quieting the best" tutorial is awsome!!!

i've seen them on ebay a couple of times....

Yes I had him move the pictures to the Factory tours and the announcment into here fewf i'm not going crazy

:O those things are CRAZY expensive..... i didn't even bother converting them into canadian currency but they do look nice, if i ever get rich i might consider them

veneer?, 1" top? or 2" to make the entire body out of? or is it for a neck?

Well it's basicly an upside down router table. The router hangs from above by an arm, and the wood rests on ur flat surface. There's a small tube that pertrudes from ur level surface directly under the router and it's the same diameter as the router bit being used (when doing straight cutting) It makes it alot easier to use templates and takes the hassel out of replacing bearings every month or 2. Here's a guide i found to making one i think i might actually try this http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_impro...7/2/pin_router/

u have no idea!!!! but so do all my screw ups

lol that's a good point soap.... i could see myself (only 20 and i kinda rush into things) just making one really quick then strapping my strat on it and flipping it sideways, and my guitar just flying right off the thing cause 90% of the jig just fell apart what kind of wood would (a wood chuck chuck if a wood chuck could chuck wood) do you guys pan on using? If we want something presice.... hmm.... i'm guesssing everyone's just going to use a big ol slab of 3x6? 3x4? 2x4? 2x6? hard maple? weight isn't really an factor i'm guessing.. I just can't decide.

i'd like a 13, i think 12½" is just asking for trouble... but around here the jump is after 12½"..... it goes up to 400something i think for a 13"

did something move? i thought i already posted a reply to this, but that was when the pics where here, and..... well.. anyways. cool shop there LGM

guys, i don't want to go insulting people.... but ah.... that stewmac info sheet shows u exactly what u need.... and has one of those pictures where everything is connected with dotty lines, what more do u want? like a fisher price guide to making ur own neck jig? We're not dealing with lego's anymore guys (unfortunetly ) i just don't understand exactly what more u could need? Is some of the hardware hard to get? I'm just taking a breif look at it, and there aren't to many measurements there, but it doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out that u'r going to need a "beam" about 4 feet long, and a board wide enought to hold an accoustic. As for the threaded holes, u can buy those things at canadian tire (home depot, kent, or what ever in the states) drill ur wholes and i beleive they can be pressed in with a hammer, or with an allen key oposite the way the screws would go into them. Maybe i'm missing something really obvious here ?

what about compensating with a rediculusly sick set of heavy bass emphasized pickups? u could also rig up some kind of capacitor that was on all the time to keep the treb and mids under control?

I use a dinky little 200$ craftex 4" jointer, works fine, and it's so great, cause u can just make ur own straight edges out of some spair ebony or something. I wish i had a planer though the only one i can afford around here is the Craftex 12½" model, but i'm worried that'll just barely do it for me.

Well routers are all evil but, i really like my ½" round nose/core box bit with a bearing on the shank to follow templates. I used it on one of my gutiars to sink the bridge, and pickups into the guitars (see below). I also like my new flush trim bit, nice and sharp, but,that's cause it's new, i think my favorite bit is the Bowl & Tray bit, but i don't own one yet

really? i like the 85 in the bridge, and i have another 85 in the neck but it seems to muddy... i think i might get a 60.. someone want one of my 85's?

i always read all the posts if i read a thread... but i get the feeling that SOME people, not naming anyone though... doesn't

not to highjack the thread.... but i was using bloodwood for a carving block i was about to sand it and since it was red i figured i should put on the filtered respirator mask... good thing i did cause that site said "*** Highly Toxic if Cutting or Routing...*** " lucky me....

is there a way to do a burst with out spraying (gotta lave that roller)

pic doesn't seem to be working to great on my end, but i pasted the url in another window and it works fine looks cool, but sorry never done a burst ah.... there we go, once again XP manages to make an ass out of me.. works fine now