krazyderek

did u check out the tutorials section?? i think there's one or 2 on decals..

one mans trash is another man's treasure.... i'll sell u my MG100 head if u want it?

i feel like such a knob cause i'm not really an expert on much of this stuff, just using ma' good ol' common sense... ok well i measured the hight of my 2 floyds and i got 0.530" for my floyd liscenced one, and 0.500" for the floyd rose low pro... FYI i'm measuring from the bottom of the base plate to the top of the D saddle, like actually IN the groove where the string sits, so again u have to figure out if ur going to do the eddie van halen thing and let the floyd sit on the top of the guitar or do a complete pocket for the whole bridge to allow for trem movement in both directions...

AAAAAAALLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLWWWWWWWWWWWAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS perpendicular to the neck, so if u were going to do a slanted one like on some RG's then u'd have to drill the holes first to ensure a nice 90 degree hole.. once u have the wholes drilled i sujest u just kinda follow brian's tutorial here http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/heal.htm the depth of the "taper" can vary anywheres from 1/16 to 4/16 depending on the wood... like basswood u probably shouldn't go over 3/16 or 4/16 (3/16 would probably be best for a good effect) where as with a big honkin maple or mahogany u could go like 5/16 or 6/16.... but then ur starting to get into creating a creater not a tapper and u might want to consider just planing the whole back face of the guitar down a bit unless there's some reason u need it that thick.. i've found that it's easier to setup a gig before u cut out the body shape to do this taper, i tried it on a guitar that was already cut out and i had to meditate for about 5 minutes before i did it as to hold the router level cause only half the base is actually supported by something. but the disc sander and a good eye can do just as good a job!

yuppers, i got them at walmart too, but only get the 2 inch ones, the 4 inch suck ass.. sash eh?umm.. ya, they're 2$ "wood" clamps..(ie: el grando cheapo) hence the bowing in the rods... i have no idea what they're called ( i can be really bad with names of tools sometimes) i just know how to use them from wood shop in jr high school... but i think i was supposed to put the middle one under the wood, not have all three on top..

*shiver* DO NOT get an MG head..... i said this is another post like 2 days ago.... worst decision i ever made was buying that head... go randall.... but i do like the peavy supreme head, (it's solid state) and it sounds awsome for shredding, but i haven't had the chance to let'r'rip so i'm not sure if it starts to crap out once u crank it..

My tip to anyone buying an electric guitar is DON'T plug it in. You can be fooled by nice pickups into a good sounding amp into not realizing that the guitar itself plays like absolute crap. better to focus on how it feels, most of the other stuff is cheap and easy to replace. ya, i remember reading that eric johnson (a very good player with amazing tone in my eye) does that, he just plays a chord then feels the guitar to see if it resonates well, after doing that a bit and finding a good one, he'll play it for a bit to get the feel for the neck yada, yada... all before he even goes near an amp. i've tried this, but i'm just not knowledegable enough yet..

Wanna Bet? '98 through 2002 Ibanez Edge and Lo-Pro Edge equipped Guitars had horrible binding problems right out of the box. Just because the parts are brand new doesn't meant they're right it wasn't an ibanez..... t'was floyd rose's from germany, any history of problems with those? where there ever any issues with those binding? i should really put that guitar back together so i can work on it as we're talking about it...

when i got the new one everything was new, the posts, bridge, springs, spring caul, ... so it's not that... and it can't be binding....cause i mean it still happens on small treml movement where it doesn't move enough in the V to touch the outside of it..... i swear i'm cursed... i'll have to record a little mp3 for u guys and see if u can hear it. ok wait i just thought about it again, (the guitar is in peices right now though) i remember being able to see that the bridge doesn't freely return to the right place (yes the new one with perfectly new edges and posts) but if i pushed it back to the center it would stay there until i did something else on the trem... i mean i really does sound like binding!!!!!!!!! GRRRRRRR maybe 2 stretched out springs would be better then 3 ?

well, are u going to rout out a cavity for the whole bridge to sit in? or just for the spring block? i'd say get out ur calipers, measure from the bottom of the bridge to the top of the saddle, then compare this with how high ur planing on making ur neck in a 5/8th's pocket (don't forget to accout for fret height) and adjust the depth accordingly... like if the bidge is.... .250 and the neck is 1.00, then 1.00-5/8 = 3/8= 0.375(neck above guitar body) .... so that's obsiously to high, now try it with a 3/4 pocket.... 1.00 - 3/4 = 1/4 = 0.250(neck above guitar body) so... that's exactly equal to how high the bridges saddles are in this little example. so u'll just move the bridge up with the pivote pins to like 0.260.. and then u should have a good starting point for when u go to setup the guitar once it's all assembled.. unless non of this made sense...

pfffffffffffffff wax paper ( hehe sorry couldn't resist ) http://members.accesswave.ca/~derekn/makin...a_guitar-01.jpg that's what i did. Wood glue generaly only sticks to wood, metals and plastics easily snap away from glue like in that picture i just used 2 handy clams to ensure the boards were fairly flush, so i wouldn't have to plane half the board down to get my level surface.

i'm still trying to understand how u broke a peice of steel with ur hands and an allen key...

1 5/8 is the standard for strat's.... ibanez is a bit wider, u probably won't notice it, but if u decide to get the right size i might take that nut off ur hands, i would prefer a black one, but meh.... and does it have the bolt on design or of the 2 wood screws to attach it to the neck?

yup, not a bad guitar for that price, much better then the jem alternative if we're talking buck for buck comparison... but i'd want to play the guitar before i buy it, u have to get "the" feeling from it... course, that said my fav tele was a suprise christmas present...

ya, if u want nirvana sound just get a boss DS-1 (by the way alot of pro's use this pedal as the base of their sound) and a good on channel clean tone tube amp. voila.... but if this is all u can get well, it's still an amp if ur not to fussy.. but i wouldn't use it all the time... kinda hurts my ears..

hmm, u could design a template to be just a tad big, and then sand down any little burs that arrise due to the change in grain? right now i just use a hand planer and a straight edge.

i've found that my guitar tends to like lighter guage strings, i usualy play 50-10, but my floyd tends to return to more in tune with 46-10's, i've had the same problem, after hudge dives of big pulls, all the strings will be equaly sharp or flat but 5 or 6 cents (yes i can definitly hear it), i've tried everything, making sure the edges were sharp, no obstructions, good srpings, setting the strings up in the V style, lubbing and cleaing the contact points, it never really went away, i even replaced the bridge with a brand new real floyd rose, still the same thing, i've just learned to correct it after i do alot of trem work, after a while i've gotten used to it, it's just as subtle a movement as adjusting the volume or selecting the middle pickup in the middle of a solo.. but i hope u have better luck then me. Course i have been known to hear things that other people don't, mabey i just have really picky ears

i have the version before that, the MG100cd, and it sounds exactly like that, to much bottom end, and if u touch the treb, it get to screatchy, the best way to imagine it is, think of what a crappy knock off of the emg 81 would sound like on an old peavy solid state amp cranked, and with absolutly no mid range, played through a sub woofer... the "FX" just means they added like chorus and some echo i think to the same head... i wouldn't recomend it unless, really desperate for something that's just plain loud and cheap, or u have no ear for tone. It's definitly on my list of "why did i buy that?" right now i just use it as a slave amp to my roland. if u want a good loud and cheap half stack, look into the Peavey supreme.

buy what ever gutiar u want (i'd get a neck thru) that feels good in your hands, then shove some dimarzio's and a real floyd rose pro in there, voila problem solved..

ya, if u made a one peice ebony neck then i doubt it would need one it all depends on the density and stability of the wood in question. and the weather it's for a bass or guitar, i've also seen the info sheets for the carbon fiber reinforcement rods, if u look at vigierguitars.com u can see a cross section of the neck, they don't use metal truss rods on their guitars.

i think i remember asking for a quote at a local store here, and the chapest jem was 2400$ CAN

umm... i'm still trying to get used to this ass backwards "standard" system... i duno why u can't all use metric... or at least make standard a bit more metric.... like 10 inches in a foot... yada yada... yes 3/4 and 1/4, but i mean that's just me, but since no one else has corrected me i assume everyone agree's with me on this, maybe check a couple of the tutorials for measurements on neck pockets.... i think there's a couple in there...

mmmm cable......

i asked a luthier around here, he usual does all his pockets to 5/8'ths depth, but he also uses the micro tilt system in all of this guitars... either way, 5/8 still seems to be working fairly well for me aswell.

pics would really help if u can take some good ones, but sounds like u don't have to worry a whole lot about it. i rout my channels a hair deeper then the depth of the rod, so i can put a shim of wood on top of it (to keep the glue out). but once u get some strings on there, (like al said, depeding on the wood) the tension of the strings will hold the rod in place..