bob123

Wondering how many of you use epoxy instead of wood glue. I know a few VERY successful luthiers that use epoxy exclusively, and was wondering if theres a reason to use or not use epoxy? My only guess would be the epoxy would be pretty much permanent?

sure is.

Those harbor freight aluminum bar clamps are the bee's knees! I've been meaning to pick up more! Much more useful and easier to use then pipe clamps imo. You look like you have the tools. Now just work on the art form. p.s. one key problem I note.... you want a neckthrough you claim... yet your blanks (both top and bottom) are already glued up.... you get to chop em up again if you dont change your mind

For sure! Great job all around

such a great build...

Bullet hole paint on the controls imo

Well keep in mind this is a tribute to the pgm, which has painted f holes Inlaying some walnut would be fabulous though, provide the "fake f hole" motiff while also being fancy... ill practice some f holes on some scrap, see what I can do perhaps!

Suggestions for people I would HIGHLY suggest you interview, google them to find their contact info, they are all very chatty and nice people. Better yet, they are all professional guitarists that have spent their lives working in music. 1) Fred Brum - Portugal/England 2) Rob Chappers - England 3) Matt King "Earthman" band - USA I've been friends with matt since I was 15, hes a really really good guy. I've also spent quite some time chit chatting with Fred and Rob as well.

That's actually a great idea! I have some crimson red oil color I may try for color. I want a deep red, more brown almost. Debating how I want to do the f holes, black dye or a decal... thoughts?

That's actually a great idea! I have some crimson red oil color I may try for color. I want a deep red, more brown almost. Debating how I want to do the f holes, black dye or a decal... thoughts?

Projected color Actual is a smidge more red then the camera shows, but I may do more red in the mix next time. Bear in mind this will be sanded off anyway, just trying to figure out EXACTLY what I want to do for colors before I move on.

holy cow thats a GREAT idea man! Im gonna have to do this... a couple suggestions for that already awesome machine 1) drill holes in the bench to dog it down, not clamp it 2) install a depth stop on the saw or even on the wood block to get accurate, consistent depth every time

When you do the pup rings, cut the middle out before you cut the outside Easier, safer, and will yield better results

I was initially thinking you make them thick so you can make TWO blanks at once, I may actually start doing that lol. I get what you mean though

Shameless thread jacking.... this is my drill press I got super cheap, and its older, heavier, and just a massive beast lol I would love to have the laser targeting yours has

No one cares about initial cuts, so I waited till I had something to show! Basically I want a PGM style guitar, think 401 meets 301 meets 90th lol. As usual, Im totally down with criticism both good and bad, if you see something I need to do better, or have some advice for this build, let me know! Specs -> edit: forgot to mention, ALL the maple is from the same tree! Hopefully providing some kind of synergy for resonance and tone perhaps. I know its purely voodoo, but all the same, cool when I can do it. NECK -> Flame maple sides, jatoba stringer, flame maple fretboard, non adjustable stainless truss bar, medium jescar frets. Suprisingly the jatoba was NOT difficult at all to work with. BODY -> Flame maple.... lets call it "half" since its massive haha, tulipwood back HARDWARE -> black hardware, gotoh tuners, black locking nut, black hardtail bridge with chrome roller saddles FINISH -> going for a violin burst ala 401, but with natural binding on the edges this finish would be ideal Anyway, on to pictures: This is my volute idea, asymetrical, and comforms to my hand PERFECTLY, I dig it a LOT Same deal with the neck joint, Im going for a more beefy, asymetrical AANJ style, but with more mass (more tone/sustain hopefully?) I have an exact template made from the neck joint I made out of mdf, so it will match the body perfectly when I get to that point. Always had issues with shaping the headstock thickness, so I just did it the easy way this time! ran it through a bandsaw, and I was pretty blown away at how accurate it got from just the saw and about 30 seconds of sanding lol Reverse headstock of course... top with a smidge of oil on top to show some of the grain, I have a scrap peice ive been testing on, and its going to POP when its all done Chunky body together of course

Flaws aside, that is a very beautiful guitar man!

Your neck must be sitting rather high then, I took a chunk out of my axis' finish when I tried using the edge on there Just giving you some personal (painful) experience here, just double check everything and make sure

gotcha, thanks. I'll probably never attempt another neck through in my life, but I can picture what you're getting at.

Word to the wise, if you are planning to use the edge, you either need to route out a space for the front to go to, or grind the front of it to an angle. You will wind up chewing your top up in a hurry if you don't! Everything looks great though, the edge is my FAVORITE trem by far!

You suck. On a side not I think I am selling the CNC and getting a mans CNC Real men use chisels and hand saws.... aka I really wish I had a CNC machine lol You my friend confuse the Working Man with the Thinking Man. Which side are you on? lol Im on the "I dont want to spend 6000$ to get a CNC machine going" side

One more question, why are your neck blanks so MASSIVE lol

You suck. On a side not I think I am selling the CNC and getting a mans CNC Real men use chisels and hand saws.... aka I really wish I had a CNC machine lol

That looks great man, that neck looks nice and thin too! very cool! I LOVE abalone inlays on maple. BTW your profile picture is creepy as hell lmao

Looks great allan, at what point do you get to be considered "professional"? Lol