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Everything posted by Jackyl

  1. Pick up a Wagner Safe-T Planer..... That is what I would use and do use to cut down the thickness.
  2. I have been messing with DeskCNC for the past 2 days. I am not crazy about it, but I have been able to import pictures and got that to engrave itself, but the one thing it has not done is actually carve out the letters. I was mainly trying to inlay something, but when in carving mode it takes a long long time doing each 1/32 it seems with a 1/8 bit. It might be faster for me doing it by hand, I am sure I am doing something wrong. I might give the turboCAD a try, price wise that is much more reasonable. I will keep plugging along, as my son tells me, making dust. Thanks Steve
  3. Use a soda blaster, it won't damage the metal. If you have access to a dry ice blaster those are the best.
  4. There seems to be so many different packages out there. That Artcam looked pretty good at first glance, but the price was through the roof. I can tell you that the CNC machine that I picked up was half the price of the software. I liked the idea that the unit was 28x35, but it will be hard to do much with it without the software. The end game I'm sure will be worth it. I was watching a video today and the guy was using words that I have never heard before, makes me feel a bit stupid honestly. When he got into the relative plane vs the neg z, all that was going through my head was, am I landing the space shuttle? Looks like a lot of good info though, I did happen to stumble on the cnczone web site already while trying to figure out the DeskCNC software which I guess is out dated from what I could gather. A lot more digging and trial and error I guess. Thanks
  5. Figured it would probably do me well to ask some questions. I picked up what I believe was a decent deal on a CNC setup that a person had invested some serious money into, but I got it from the 2nd owner. The second owner I believe had no clue how to use it and could not demonstrate it to me other than run the axis, but he did not run it very far which caused me a headache this weekend. All said and done, I figured out that he never set up the software correctly and the Y axis was not slaved between the motors, all is good now. That said, the person was using DeskCNC, their documentation is less than friendly and that is about the extent of the software that was there. What would be a good design software for a first timer? It has been 30yrs since I did any designing and that was on a piece of paper, using a ruler and pencil. I see a lot of people discussing this Mach 3 Software, would that be something to replace the DeskCNC? Honestly I have yet to figure out even how to get a demo circle to the board, so when I say I know nothing, I know less than that. I am just glad that I figured out what was going on with the motors and which I believe was the reason this person had never done anything with it. If there are publications that you think would be good points of reference throw them my way, until then I will continue to mess around with the software and build my guitars by hand. The reason I purchased this unit was to save myself and my son time when doing logos and names on the fretboard. I would like to do much more with it, but just taking one step at a time. Thank you for any advice or direction.
  6. The surface did dry to the point where I wet sanded it back to a fine polish. The issue which strangely fixed itself this weekend, was the indentation of the parts into the clear coat. I ended up covering the guitar this weekend on my work bench since I had to move on to building a door and a book case, last night I was able to take a quick look and found the spots completely gone. The first spray for the guitar was over a month ago and like in the last few posts I learned my lesson on using the medium hardener. It ended up drying too slow and causing the pin holes in the clear. As soon as I saw the pin holes I knew it was going to require a re-spray and I switched back up to the fast hardener which this actually was. I sanded down the surface to just above the wood leaving the base coat there for a week and half in my garage hanging. Then sprayed the guitar and left it for another week hanging in the garage where the temp during the day gets to 90 Degrees easily. Then I removed the guitar and started wet sanding with fantastic results this time around. Interestingly enough the painter that I consulted about the pin holes actually felt it was from the wood releasing trapped air, especially since it was not over all the wood types just the walnut. In addition I also run two dryers in my system since I found out the hard way when I started spraying cars and gas tanks. Do to time constraints, I probably will put the remainder of the hardware on tomorrow. Having sprayed it over 2 weeks ago I have to assume that it is hard enough to assemble and I cannot wait any longer since it needs to be in the mail tomorrow. Which I know I will not get it out until Wed at the earliest. Thanks for your inputs.
  7. Did a search on automotive clear and 2K clear, each thread touched on the issue that I am seeing, but not 100% sure I got the answer. I have used this paint before, mainly for gas tanks over a color, but I figured I would give it a try over wood. It looks fantastic, nice mirror shine on it I am completely satisfied with the sanding and polishing. Problem was the other night I placed the hardware on the top to take some pictures of it to get an idea of how it was going to look. To my surprise I got outlines of the hardware, not huge outlines, small hairline corners on the one and an arc on another appeared overnight. My concern is that the area is still soft after a week which to me is unusual, the only thought I had was that I machine polished it prior to putting the hardware on, would this have softened it at all? If it was completely outlining the parts I would be furious, but the small 2-3mm outlines will just be covered when I screw everything down. My thought was to put it out in the sun for the next 2 days and let it sit not attempting to put the hardware on, but my gut is telling me that it should be hard. Thoughts?
  8. Read Ace Frehely's Autobiography, not much in there that I did not already know. I think the biggest surprise was how close he was to John Belushi, that I did not recall. All the gun play and such I knew about mainly from talking with Ed Roman..... Yes I dare mention that name outside of the realm of reality..... There is a man that needs an autobiography written about him as anyone that owns/owned/or may own a Steinberger would know his name. Read Gene Simmons also, but he is self centered - money maker, so you get more watching his show when it was on. Honestly his kids were spoiled brats that needed to be kicked out of the nest to make it on their own. At first that did not appear to be the case, but on the show a couple of comments were made that I guess the producers did not have a chance to strike out.
  9. Not 100% sure I don't have an old Warmoth body, but the neck pocket looks to have the Warmoth icon there.
  10. Although I have not done the swirling on a guitar yet, I have done it on other items in the past. I noticed you are from Belguim and in the states we use a product called 20 Mule Team Borax. What it ends up being is a laundry enhancer, when I do the translation on the site you put into the note, that is the same product for the most part. To me that would do the trick.... I did see that you or someone else asked the question on the page also about if it can displace water. I would go ahead and get that, or see if you can find some of the 20 mule product.
  11. One might be a ECC83, 12AT7 or 7025, which is pretty much interchangable with the 12AX7 or just different manufacture design. I know that in my old '67 Fender that I had a bunch of different tubes that I mixed and matched to create a different feel of the amp.
  12. Another thing you can do is try and find a local Luthier that is willing to take on someone and show you how to make a guitar. The advantage there is that they probably have all the tools that you need. Plus I know from my own experience that I am not a book guy, so having someone there to show me is definitely an advantage. I only need to see it once and I can do it, but I can read 10 books and never get it. The hardest part for me is still the neck, I have an issue with the why part. Yes I am an engineer by trade and it is probably the root of my problem, but someday I hope to understand it to the point where it is not a mystery to me. My last comment, learn to build jigs.
  13. PM a picture of it if you get a chance, I would like to check it out. Thanks.
  14. Found the picture I was looking at... http://www.auctiva.c...,0,0,0&format=0 Hopefully that takes you there, but from what I have read they are powered by 2 6V6 tubes, have one Recto tube and 2 12AX7 tubes. On 3 different sites they mention that combination for that model. Based on what I have read that the amp was manufactured by either St George or Teisco Amps based on Massie's specs. As I mentioned earlier Massie appeared to be trying to break away from Fender at the time and was expanding. If it is a Teisco Amp I may even have the prints on it, unfortunately I did not have to time last night to dig out my books. I will let you know if I find anything else, but hopefully that helps get you closer to where you want to go.
  15. While searching for the model that you listed I was able to see a couple of photos of the rear of one and there was definitely an 12AX7 in the picture. The strange part was that the photos showed 2 AX7 tubes. If I can find the links again I will add them. Do a search on Massie or st. george and put the amp and model in. Sounds like a neat little amp considering that Massie worked for Fender.
  16. I can tell you that the one that I have works great, so far no issues or complaints and I have use both. The cutters are without a doubt important to have anyway.
  17. I actually just called them on the phone because that is where I got mine from a couple of months ago. These are not the actual Wagner ones they are copies and from overseas, the person said that they should be in soon.
  18. Try here: http://woodworker.com/fullpres.asp?PARTNUM=24760&LARGEVIEW=ON
  19. Anybody try soda blasting? I have not had to strip a body in a long time, but I have a couple of flame shape guitars in the shop now that I am thinking of repainting. I know I would like to try Ice Blasting, but just too cheap to buy one.
  20. Well as it turns out I threw the old paper back on and it has stayed together,so that must be the issue. Now I just need to figure out where to get the paper.
  21. Since I got my drum sander about 3 months ago used, I had not replaced the sandpaper on it, but due to it getting gummed up I needed to replace it. When I purchased the person had 2 rolls of paper and I grabbed them also. Now I have replace the paper 2 times and both times the end ripped off at the point where it inserts and holds. The difference off the bat that I see in the original had a grey backing and the other that keeps ripping on me has red. Is it just the quality of the material that is causing the issue?
  22. I had many of the same questions recently because my go to guitar does not actually use any string hold downs and yet it does not have a angle on the neck. Very similar to the Fender headstock, what I failed to realize is the tuning pegs actually compensated for the lack of a hold down. In other words the tuning pegs were actually not level from low E to High E but dropped down as they went across. This has intrigued me since the first guitar I built used the string hold downs, but now I am looking to get away from them for cosmetic reasons, but still stay away from an angle when possible.
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