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Mr_Riddler

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Posts posted by Mr_Riddler

  1. 19 minutes ago, Prostheta said:

    Very jealous of your chisel stash. I'd immediately take the red-handled ones to 20° and the ferruled wooden ones to 25-30°. That's totally just me coveting your stash! I normally take mine to about 22.5° so they work best with hand work and with occasional use with a mallet. I really love my edge tools. They return so much beauty in process and result.

     

    Haha the pile is about 50+ chisels right there. The red ones are BAHCO, and most of the wooden ones is E A Berg another Swedish and very popular brand. Thats actually the angles i normally prefer around 25° tends to hold an edge a little better when working in hard woods. 

  2. Thanks guys glad to hear that you like it. As promised some more pictures how it looks at the moment.

    Just got the neck glued in but got some sanding and stuff left. The neck is Swedish oak and padauk. But unfortunately it got an aesthetic issue. Didn't do that much thinking when cutting the pieces for it and the centre piece is a little to wide. Which made the padauk peak out on one side when cutting the taper. It Bothers me a alot but it's an easy fix, will just paint the neck solid orange and red and of course add a crackle finish to that as well. 

    20180312_191924.jpg

    20180312_185744.jpg

    20180312_212117.jpg

    • Like 3
  3. 11 hours ago, beltjones said:

    I used the new bandsaw blade to resaw a piece of wenge from scrap - it's about 3/32" thick - which I will use on the headstock. Is that too thin? After sanding it might be 1/16" or so (~1.5mm).

    I also made a template for the control cavity. I need to figure out how to route / drill the switch cavity, which by my measurement should be about 1 11/16" (~43mm). I don't think I can make a perfectly circular MDF template - at least a method for doing that doesn't come to mind. I may just have to buy a hole saw with the correct diameter.

    u5RZxF5.jpg

     

     

    Use a holesaw for the template.

  4. 2 hours ago, ScottR said:

    I was thinking that when you re-slot the area of your carving / inlay there will be areas where the fret tang will be pressed into the resin only...or so it appears to me from the picture. I was just curious as to whether the resin would hold the tang in the same manner as the wood. I expect it will, but I got curious and asked.:) (I do that often).

    SR

    Ah! I see what you mean, don't think that would be an issue, but will add some drops of CA just to be on the safe side. 

  5. 14 hours ago, ScottR said:

    Man, you've got some artistic skills and talents on display here. Your builds have always been great so I shouldn't be surprised.

    That's a very nice carving and nicely shaded with stain to add depth. Very impressive! Have you used that epoxyresin to hold frets before?

    SR

     

     

    Thank you for the kind words! 

    Never tried the resin to hold down frets, but I think it's possible. 

    the resin turns rock hard when cured, hard as CA or even harder. The downside is the curing time of 24h so I don't see the point of using it for frets or am I missing something? 

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