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Racer X

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Everything posted by Racer X

  1. Racer X
    thoughtless, in case you have it, Dan Erlewine disscusses all this in his book, Guitar Player Repair Guide. And if you DON'T have it, I reccommend it. It will pay for itself, over and over again. I'd be lost without it. Mine is so marked up, now, with Post-Its, and highlighter markers. Almost like a comfortable, old pair of jeans, now! lol.
  2. Racer X
    http://projectguitar.com/tut/bender.htm
  3. Racer X
    This is the ticket, provided you have a drill press: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Planes/W...e-T-Planer.html
  4. Racer X
    I've gone so far as you get a few sheets of Avery clear sticker label papers (each label looks kinda like a piece of the "invisible" Scotch tape), and did my own graphic lettering, in Micrsoft Word. Printed it out off a laser printer, trimmed the excess, placed it, and shot several coats of clear over it. Didn't come out too bad, and I never finished the top finish, either. Sure it would look even better, if I did. Maybe, someday...
  5. Racer X
    Don't get me wrong, I've only used toothpaste for polishing metla components, and like I said, jewelry. I have no idea how it is on a guitar, not do I wish to find out. I'll pay the extra bucks, and get the right stuff, and save the toothpaste for my pearly whites!
  6. Racer X
    Are you taling about waterslide decal paper? It's sold on Evilbay, all the time. you can buy a sheet at a time, or more. Good luck. Hope this helps.
  7. Racer X
    Yup, I've use toothpaste on stuff before. Even works great on jewelry. Here's my dirty little secret:.........It works best on TEETH.
  8. Racer X
    maybe you didnt see the part in my last post where I said I did do a search and didnt find all the answers I was looking for. Oh, I READ it, but by THAT time, you had already said you were to lazy to try that (first thread), and in the beginning of the second thread, accused others of being rude. All before you stated that you tried searching, yourself. Sorry, but that is just Forum 101, anywhere. Anyways, what's done is done. I hope you get the answers you are looking for. Afterall, that's why most of us are here.
  9. Racer X
    Rude? Ha. Dude, they were being rather gracious. First you say your are too lazy to help yourself, then you add insult to injury? You STILL want help, don't you?
  10. Racer X
    If you are trying to top with polyurethane, and NOT use a gun, you might be shooting yourself in the foot. There may be hope. There is a crop of clear poly finishes, available, in spray can. However, as they are NOT catalyzed, I don't know if they can be considered a true poly coat, at least from a durability sense. Minwax makes one, and I've seen it anywhere from the local hardware store, to Walmart. Ther are others, as well. Good luck.
  11. Racer X
    Well, here's the ting: You will find plenty of NEW necks, on Ebay, and for comparible prices. You're saying cheap, but not Ebay. You're really narrowing things down, then. You don't HAVE to slough off Ebay, you just have to be willing to research, and buy smart.
  12. Racer X
    "Floyd Rose", at this point, is almsot like saying "Kleenex", so what KIND of Floyd Rose are you using? An Original Floyd Rose? A Schaller Floyd Rose? If youlet us know, we MAY be able to help.
  13. Racer X
    I always go the super-glue, drop-fill route, and have had great success. You might want to consider that. You just have to make sure you have the wood mathing the surrounding area, before you drop-fill.
  14. Racer X
    Stay away from Duplicolor. I have heard horror stories, merely because their paint is too soft, once cured. There has to be better options, out there.
  15. Racer X
    Aw, @#%*! Ya beat me to the punchline!
  16. Racer X
    Well, since Dan Erlewine reccomends, in the Guitar Player Repair Guide, roughly setting string height, about .010" above the frets, I would have to say the information you recieved was, for all intents and purposes, correct, and not a misprint.
  17. Racer X
    What, that pile of garbage?! Haha! No, seriously, that is INCREDIBLE work, and deserves to be commended. Wow. You are definitely a man of talent AND patience. Excellent work, man!
  18. Racer X
    Unless you plan on shooting arrow with the thing, too, you better put in a truss rod!
  19. Racer X
    When you say "route the trem", I'm assuming you are talking about rerouting the body FOR the trem. In this situation, you will need a shorter trem block, other wise, since the trem will NOW sit, recessed into the body, ther is a good chance that the trem block will poke all the way out of the back, springs and all. Since this Kramer is a top0load trem, it probably has a 42 mm trem block. Either find the appropriate, shorter block for this trem, or (and this is probably the more feasible option) find a newer floyd trem, that HAS the shorter block.
  20. Racer X
    Yeah, and they used to start cars with a crank! Yeah, it can be done, but the result don't compare to a router job.
  21. Racer X
    If you REALLY get into guitar building, you can do this: http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_impro...op/1274466.html If you want to see the wonders of a pin router, go to Wayne Charvel's site, and check out his vids: http://www.wayneguitars.com/nwwd/videos.htm these vids are awsome.
  22. Racer X
    OOH, that's purtty. Wish I had the bucks. Mine was a flametop amber finish, and was one of the nicest guitars I've had out of 40 some guitars in my life. Alas, I had 4, needed only 3, had to trade one, for an amp upgrade. Sadly, this one was the only option out of the 4, for one reason or another. Got my money back out of it, though.
  23. Racer X
    I agree. I have stuff at work, called Neolube, which is just graphitar, desolved within alchohol. Great stuff. Anyway, I had tuning issues on my two strats. Bought a very fine detail paint brush, and appplied some of that stuff, and BINGO! Tuning is MUCH more stable, now. You can get the same/similar stuff at guitar stores, labelled corny names, like Nutlube, and whatnot. Give it a shot.
  24. Racer X
    If the overhang is already touching the body, without the pickguard, I'd say just cut the pickguard. It's alot cheaper to fix that boo-boo, than the neck or body. Look at some of the Ibanezes: They have a notch in the pickguard, for the overhang. I was gonna say full-size shim, until I heard about the body and overhang touching, already. You may need alot of shim to get where you need to be, otherwise.
  25. Racer X
    Wow. Nice job, man. You are making me reconsider my finishing choices for this up and coming project.
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