mistermikev

good news is - looks like your chip is only down to about where a normal fretboard would be. bad news is... that's a lot of wood to remove by hand. Personally, I'd try to mitigate some of that with a router and router sled first... but that's me (lazy). It's all just an opportunity to learn a few things. guitar is looking great tho so... you got this.

if it's tapping you want... highly recommend you guy buy a drum head like the alesis dm5. then, wire up two piezo elements where you want to tap... and to a stereo jack. then you run that stereo cable to a dm5. now... when you tap you will triger electronic drum sounds. more importantly you'll trigger midi. if you run out midi from the dm5 to usb pc in, or two other synths... you can trigger any sound you like (conga!). Just a thought.

I would suggest that you A) take the guitar to another instrument maker for formal appraisal. Perhaps a local repair guy... someone who might know more about high end hand built instruments B ) explain to that person that this is for insurance (you don't want them thinking you are trying to use this to put a selling price on your guitar), and you need a written estimate and I would tell them you'll bring them 6 guitars to estimate and give them $50 total. I bet that does it. Honestly, if you go to a local guitar shop you are going to get low-balled anyway, and esp if you get them to do it for free. Everything costs money... doesn't have to be a back breaker but I would think 6 guitars might take them 40 mins and $50 would be fair. If you lay it out like that... from the repair guy's perspective he's going to make cash for doing almost nothing. Hard to pass up.

total divergence... but I meant to ask: do you perhaps use a tablesaw jig to put a taper in laminates for a bass neck? if so... any chance you have a pic? I've seen a few jigs that I'm not fully satisfied with and learning towards typical mitre jig with toggle clamps. Just wondering what others use?

always learn a thing or two when I chat w you - thanks for that. I love wenge and have observed/used it's rigid properties at least two times now. was not aware that bubinga was rigid. I always loved the look of it... but passed it up at the local spot because I thought it was about the sm as mahogany. I may have to snag some next time I'm there. I imagine sapelle is on that list too. have some of that and haven't cut any but I'm told it's hard on the tools. the dif between stiff and stable is def not lost on me. I am aware that mahog is very stable but it's not what I'd call stiff. in fact, maple is perhaps more stiff but depending on the piece can be less stable. learned some new uk slang too... ballache! i like where you were going with the cf pinstripes. I was thinking... if one cut some grooves on the back side of a shaped neck... then wrap carbon fiber thread around screws at both ends... turn the screw to tighten... then pour in epoxy. Might add some stiffness. Might look kind of cool. Something to try when I'm feeling 'sperimental! now that makes me think... what about carbon fiber binding? wouldn't want to have to bend it around anything, but on the sides of the fretboard that could be pretty cool. That said... it might fight the truss rod too effectively. just spitballing here.

right-o. I think if I did this neck using a single piece of the birdseye I have access too - we'd be golden... but that's not the right wood for this build. I believe you are right about the multilam being enough... but there is one variable I left out that might make it more uncertain - 35" scale. I'm also using an allied truss which I think probably does add some stability as they are well made and fairly rigid. all that said... If the price of knowing you've done everything you can do is a little extra effort and a few carbon fiber rods... I'm in. Will be something I can check off my "haven't done yet" list too so... think that's the way to go!

right on, some good fact-lets there (I've heard many complaints about teh sound of carbon fiber, then again flea seems to make an entirely carbon fiber neck sound pretty good so... grain of salt). I have two 5 strings right now... and don't really care for either. they both are solid maple and are under constant strain to maintain the super low action I like. I think I'm probably most of the way there just going with a 7 piece lam w opposing grain and an ebony board... and perhaps I'm jumping the gun thinking that that on it's own won't be enough to get me rock solid stability with a thin profile... but I'd hate to be wrong!

well, the takeaway for me is that if one wanted to do something like this you'd have to address the need to put tension into the carbon fiber. that really complicates it for me. I think what I'll end up doing is buying some of the thinner pulltruded carbon fiber rods and perhaps do a 1/16 route that is deeper. I just don't want to put a lot of "anything other than wood" in a guitar if I don't need to. The one thing I think I heard from many sources is that the typical 1/4 x 1/4 carbon fiber reinforcement is more than anyone needs. so... perhaps I'll snag some 1/16 x 1/4 rods and try that out. this whole thing came from me thinking about a 5 string bass (my next) that is a purpleheart/maple lam. probably going to be pretty solid as is, but I'm wanting to do a really shallow profile and I'd like to maintain as much rigidity as I can without adding any more carbon fiber than I need.

just a follow up here... I spoke to syfi... and he agreed that the TOW threat method would not add meaningful rigidity. I guess we all kind of knew that, but just thought I'd follow up.

right on... I may have jumped the gun. looking good.

when you say 'got her done' do you mean the whole enchilada? if so... c'mon now... full body shot aka money shot aka "I'm all done look at the results" shot... either way that's a sharp bridge and tuners look good.

wow man, "you're on fiiiirrrrre" (imagined van halen voice). looks lovely. nice work.

yeah... what he said! also, you can check mouser but it's such a pain to find things there for me. if it exhists they'll have it. also... there's this: https://reverb.com/item/31157001-alpha-blend-potentiometer-with-center-detent-250k-ohm

this worked for me... but I think where you are going to likely see issue is the nut... in addition to trem setup the nut has to be cut right and they rarely are. https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=carl+verheyen+tremolo+setup#kpvalbx=_RTiUX4TxN8iU-gSTqay4Dg8

right on. using a 1/8 ball vs 1/4 ball makes a huge dif in the time estimate it comes up with. Also, I've noticed that the whiteside .tool database bits are set to run much faster and as such come out with much lower time estimates. I figure I'm going to be doing plenty of sanding so I'll probably just go with a 1/4 ball nose and call it good enough. afa area... right now I'm just working on the body... and everything is restricted to the bounds of the body in 90% of the area. I will keep that in mind tho - no sense wasting bit/time/etc on something that doesn't need to be carved. that's a nice clean edge where that neck meets the heel. I love that about cnc... just looks so professional. nice work.

hehe... you are my yoda. as it were... I'm going to be facing this issue shortly I suspect as I transition to neck design for my bass. Further... current graphics card is being pushed to the limit on standard resolution... but we will be rectifying that shortly. (nother side proj coming up - building a 16 core pc!!) I will come back to this thread once I get there and I'm thinking this will be very relevant then! thank you for that! afa bit... just wondering if you are in fact going down to a tapered ball nose 1/8" bit for finishing. it appears to be the recommendation but will result in an estimate run time upwards of 10hrs!!

wow, that's a lovely piece of scrap. if I may - what bit do you use for the finished pass?

ima b honest.... kinda blurry but... looks like some nice figure.

clearly not doing historicaly accurate so... over at herald you can find design for yamaha attitude bass. https://www.electricherald.com/guitar-templates/page/2/ there are lots of folks who have the 51 pbass neck here you can find a p-bass headstock template https://www.tdpri.com/threads/p-bass-headstock-template.252557/ and this site actually has a p bass neck https://www.gitarrebassbau.de/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=6

right on. I appreciate the insight!

a faskinatin' read.

just wood screws into the substrate? I used to do that with my planer board... and after a while the surface looked like swiss cheese. I spose on a cnc it's easy 'nuff to replace. ;)

well then... let my start by building a shrine in my mind... by reviewing the threadsy of cycfi...

i guess if one made their own truss rods... a carbon fiber wrap on the rod might be a good idea. it'd be ideal to have that carbon fiber occupying all the 'air' space in a double action truss rod.

I'm not familiar with this engineering term "cutt-y"... please elaborate (hehe). well I was thinking that if you did a gloss finish over the top it would be less 'cutt-y". just spit balling here. more I think about it carbon fiber rods seem like much less effort... but the original premise was that you could use TOW carbon fiber thread, and potentially reinforce a neck 'enough' without adding all that much carbon fiber and more importantly the amount of resin you'd put in your guitar would be lessened. this was all spurred on by a thread I was reading over at talkbass where an experienced gentleman (bruce) uses 2-12 threads under the truss rod, puts in a filler stick, then the truss rod. It is essentially a cheaper way, and according to bruce - adds enough rigidity without adding all that plastic/resin.