mistermikev

I've had similar issues before. if it's just at the ends it's likely from the glue (as mentioned) from the binding bonding with dust. stew mac sells a ilttle fret slot cleaner https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/types-of-tools/saws/japanese-fret-slot-cleaning-saw.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=2020-10-gp&gclid=CjwKCAjwrKr8BRB_EiwA7eFaprrc3yzG39vBL40mmfm9-9yNpdVytvWCtdi4VLt8xvdzWXefmLHQuxoCpzkQAvD_BwE might do it for you. haven't seen you in a while around here scorpion - nice to see you again. cheers

for the record it looks identical to mine afaik... but I'm using one version back from the latest (didn't want to reconfigure). is yours black?

aaaaah haaa! ok, right THIS is where you can input coordinates and get it to go there. got it. very handy. ty.

I believe that is the menu you get when you hit tab? if so... been using it a LOT. also getting close to the piece and then setting the jog speed to 1 and moving down slowly to zero... but at least once I hit the down button when I meant up and broke a hair thin bit! reminds me of working with pickup wires - man those things are so fragile but the cut like butta!

right on. I have actually been doing this quite a bit... the reason I asked about zero is in fact THAT - that it brings z to zero... so if I need to move my tool while working on something... I should lift the z to safe area, zero it out there, then hit go to zero, then lower the bit to the piece and zero out again - thank you - this is exactly what I wanted to know. I've been goofing off trying to get familiar with the tool and creating some silly coasters. I've broken a few inlay bits and am thinking I need to get some more that are as thin as the one I have but better cutters (these are just harbor freight) but am also thinking I need to learn more before I go breaking good bits! have been messing with feed and plunge speeds a bit. trying to do really fine detail is pretty tuff! anywho, thank you again for the info!!

some definite good tips there afa all the functions - thank you very much for that. still kind of figuring things out and I very much appreciate the input. if I may... what is the button you hit to have it return to your z0 x0 y0 should you have manually jogged away?

thank you very much for the detailed response. as it were... I was just out in the garage running my first project - a spoil board. I had to change bits a few times and in my ignorance just figured... well I'll try the red stop button. Then had my hand on it as I started the next series but it went off without a hitch. learned some things... like that I was over my actual boundary by a fraction (not good, I know). that said... aside from drilling the first two holes then realizing I marked center wrong... once I fixed that the whole thing ran w/o issue. didn't have the proper bit for etching numbers so just used a inlay bit. altho it was a hair big to preserve details like the center of the number 8... I didn't break the bit so that's a win!! note to self - find the motion stop button! that'd be a handy one to know. that said... I think I'm going to be overly cautious and use the red button for tool changes. Right now I'm pretty much going to be sending 1 file per tool so it will work out ok anyway. Still good to know another option of a 'soft stop'. Thank you for that!

ah, yes, I 'spose if you had a reg router you'd just hit the switch or unplug that as opposed to the machine, makes sense. I appreciate your answer and thank you very much for the response!

like... you've never used yours because you just go change the tool, or you've never used your because you always unplug the machine before you change the tool?

hehe, well I know THAT part silly!! I was more concerned with the reliability of said switch. It's not killing power to the controller... so in theory it is at least possible the mechanism fails. If that were to happen while I was gently carressing the bit (as I often do... digression - new movie - romancing the bit... story at 11) it could be dangerous. Perhaps I'm over thinking it. sounds like you trust the red button to prevent your spindle from turning.

so... just a quick question for the cnc gods... do you trust your red stop button? it would seem to me that this is the equivalent of trusting your on/off switch on your hand router (ok, well with cnc you'd have to untwist the switch and then actually hit reset and then hit go, so maybe not equiv). My gut is telling me I shouldn't change a bit unless the machine is at least powered down, if not unplugged physically... but my other gut is telling me that it is unlikely that folks would actually go through that in the real world... for every change of bit. So, fully acknowledging that you are not responsible for my receipt of this knowledge - do you trust your red button? if you don't... a follow up question: I'm assuming that as long as I don't turn off mach3 session... when I turn the power back on is there any chance of the machine losing its place in terms of proximity to xy zero? ( @curtisa @MiKro ?) doh, everything was going so good!!! so I setup a job to make a spoilboard. transfered it to machine. imported the first part of the jobs and got the demo version alert re 500 lines. zeroed out to my ctr point... ran the job and all went swimingly. So I bought a mach3 license... didn't want to reinstall mach3 cause I just got my setting set up so... copied in the .dat file... now xy axis will not move. z axis works fine. motors scream if I try to jog any direction... and I had just jogged it literally 20 seconds before. I shutdown mach3, loaded .dat file... started back up... now I can't move. would seem ulikely there would be a "make my moters scream but don't move" button turned on... stumped. it's like a rolla coasta in here today! so... replaced the mach3 xml file and suddently all is ok. so there must be a 'mach my motor cry but don't move' feature that I somehow turned on. anywho... back in biz.

well thank you fer sayin' so!! having a ball myself!

i only have one question... like... "what's new pussycat" tom jones? and what's he got to do with all this!! anywho... here's hoping that goes smooth as silk for you. would love to see your pickups and hear a demo!!

good info there... well... what I was hoping for is a tilted floor... but 90 deg walls. perhaps for the ctrl cavities I can accomplish something close by doing multiple overlapping slices of progressively deeper pocket... because it won't much matter to the controls if the floor is perfectly flat. I just need the extra room. the cover pocket can be flat but the control cavity uneven. all good info - thank you for your input.

good point re centerline... just would have to keep them equidistance on the y axis. ok, had my axis messed up I guess cause was thinking x is but to neck but I suppose it could be anything. thank you for the info on the center - that clears up a lot. "known locations" so if you give it it's starting point on the face... then flip it using those posts... you don't have to tell it center on the back, right? you can just hit go again? tricky - well... I'm going to attempt to cross that bridge via software. I'm told it is tricky... but a two rail sweep is the mechanism by which you accomplish in my cad... so will have to explore that some more. soooo much to learn! again, very much appreciate the tutelage.

where are my manors - thank you so much for the response!! no idea what airfix and sprues are (you sure this is english?) hehe. all sounds right on about the body... trick being how to tell the software to stop the contour pass before it hits those areas. doing a two rail sweep so I would think it would know but in the 3d preview it seems to cut into that area. great tip on the bolts... unfortunately the center of this design (assuming I keep the tightest 'canvas' around it) is offset... which I fear my complicate that but it is a fantastic idea and one I'll have to try on a test run. I guess my starting point on the machine is going to be the anchor(center) in aspire? so once I send g code to the machine I guess I have to somehow guide mach3 to the starting point... and then start it? that whole part is still muddy to me. tilted - well... the neck pocket is going to get a 1 degree break/tilt to compensate for the bridge. the control and battery cavities might need to tilt down as the approach the middle of the body in order to give me the required 1" of clearance for the batteries and 1.25" clearance for push pull pots (that will be tight).

my initial thoughts were... "bet that guitar stinks"!

well, learning cam and my head is tired but I hit a sort of milestone this morning on this bass... in terms of getting the initial carve where I want it... still have a long way to go... so many things to learn: how to tilt my control pockets and neck pocket what is my plan for how to mount this after one side is carved? thinking either A) build a form that it can lock into, B ) the edges will still be on the flat plan... at least in two spots so I could just make something to hold the 'other' spot. C) maybe will have enough material outside my body shape and just need to figure out how to tell the software not to go into those areas and keep them flat need to do edge treatments probably 30 other things but I feel a desperation about testing my machine and need to shift focus to a spoilboard and simple test run. in the mean time... this is what I have so far: at this point I'll appeal to the wealth of cnc/cam knowledge here at projgtr: see any gotchas? any comments or concerns? also, just wanted to say thanks to @curtisa and @MiKro who have sort of mentored me on these initial stages - I really do appreciate your help!!

def some more radical ideas going on here... love that. the other day I saw a guy take an actual taxidermy fish and put it in epoxy as a guitar body... don't know if it was a tone fish... but it did look pretty kewl! rawk on.

yeah... even I don't wanna see that... nor my wifey!

gawd I hope some folks who have winding experience will chime in as I'm terribly fascinated by many of the questions you've asked... that said I have never even attempted a wind. Mostly because I have attempted to convert from 2 conductor to 4 conductor on at least two occasions and have wound up with wire broken off somewhere back where I can't even see it. Damn you sausage fingers! I don't know what physically changes when you go to A2... but I def gravitate towards the sound of it. have two guitars with A2P90s that I' love the sound of, some singles that are A2 and resonate with me... and my fav seymour pickup is the A2 Pro. Lots of others I like but I don't think it's a coincidence that most of my favs are A2. I don't think it's common to hear about scatterwound on a p90 but given the time period? Then again afa I know no one ever talks about scatterwound in pafs either... perhaps gibson had more consistent winders? well, in the context of single coils it afaik it refers to the inconsistencies in the wind (moving it randomly up/down the bobbin as it winds). I guess you likely already knew that. It might not be common on a p90 because afaik it makes for a larger footprint and most p90s don't have room to spare no?

well... um... maybe I'll still do that? (I like your sense of humor!)

hubba hubba - that is lovely. esp the wenge/maple/wenge part. really handsome. nice work as always!!

that's the spirit... for me... if I go that far it's over... and I will never go back and touch it up... but that's totally ok - guitar looks great!

doh, well... they are carbide drills but .0223 not .223 - yes those are the ones. forrest for trees. (so embarrassed). well, on the bright side I've got some pcb drills.