Lex Luthier
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Everything posted by Lex Luthier
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I'm just a hobbiest, but a more 'industrial' sized hobbiest I guess. I REALLY love the drum of a belt sander for shaping necks, whether it's my 4X36 bench top or my new 6X99 edge sander. I found my heals looked blocky with a spoke shave. The drum of a belt sander also carves those belly contours and willrough out an arched top for me. I also find those sanders useful for radiusing fingerboards, particularly the edge sander because of it's 37" platen. I think a larger sized bandsaw, like the Delta 14" w\ riser, (which I may be getting REALLY soon!) is a must. Depending on the type of finishes you want to do, you need a compressor, the bigger the better. Not really sure what kind of gun is best, I just have a touch-up gun. A floor model drillpress also helps for side mounted jacks. Hope this helps a little.
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Get an exacto blade and a torch. Maybe fasten the blade to some kind of non-flamable handle if you need to, or just get a metal bodied excato. Heat the blade up and kind rock the blade into the slot, you'll here the glue melt. Heat will terminate any glue joint
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machine
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Because the radius blocks were bad or because you think radius blocks give bad results in general? Not sure. It just gave an uneven radius. Maybe my technique was off.
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I think I did use double stick take, but you could maybe use a non-slip router mat of some sort?
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I made my own radiusing blocks back in highschool and they did a bad job, it wasn't even. Now I use my edge sander and radii gauges.
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What do you use to shape necks?
Lex Luthier replied to renablistic's topic in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
Exactly. I use the drum of my edge sander or belt sander. -
When I planed fingerboards in highschool I stuck them to another board to make it seem thicker.
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I have used Titebond as well as this.
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THIS IS THE CIRUIT FOR THAT THING? THAT THING THAT STEWMAC CHARGES LIKE $30 FOR?!? HAHA!!! I could go down to my local elctronics supplier and pick those things up for about $5!
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Not really, but it just won't be good enough to sell, and that's what I'm focusing on doing with guitars/bass's I'm building right now. Maybe later I'll finish it, I still have it hiding under my bed. I didn't take me too long to do the body, a few hours maybe, and that was my first and only archtop so far.
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You know that actually makes sence. the truss rods I've used before had a completely flattened top surface that contacted the underside of the fingerboard. I'm using a Hotrod for the first time and the way it is designed, I guess that could happen.
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I've done a PRS-ish guitar. I never finished it because of neck joint problems, but when I arhced the body, used the drum of my bench top belt sander to rough out the arching, using drwn out lines as a guide, and then a rondom orbit sander, handheld, to smoothen and blend everything.
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Black walnut for necks and bodies
Lex Luthier replied to MzI's topic in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
I'm building my second Walnut bodied bass. The owner of the first one I did says she loves the way it sounds. -
My bodies tend to be 1.75", sometimes thinner. I've never gone over 1.75", but you can do whatever you want.
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I bought a 1mm thickness scraper blade that I cut on a large sheer in the metal shop in my highschool. I then sharped them. That's really all there was to it. The scraper blade I used is TOUGH though, you may have trouble cutting it without proper tools.
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PICS.
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I needed a truss rod for a mandolin I built, so I ripped apart the neck of my old Samick, and cut the truss rod in half and then went to my old highschool and had the metal shop teacher reweld it for me. I made the neck of the mandolin a bit thicker plus gave it an Ebony fingerboard, and the rigidity of the rod itself made the neck quite strong, so I didn't even need to use the rod the set the relief, so I never actually fully used the truss rod, but it most likely works fine.
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You mean these?
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Email them to me @ mpwelsh459@hotmail.com and I'll post them here for you.
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Here is a pic of all three at different anlges, including one disassembled. They are a solid piece of Maple with a "V" shaped slot chiseled out, a small dowel inserted to allow a small wedge to hold the blade like in the diagram I have included. I made three because one has a completely flat sole, another has a curve across the width of the sole, and the other one is curved across the width and lenght of the sole. They are about 1 1/4" in lenght, but you can make them whatever size you need. I found it a better idea to make them then to spend $50 FOR EACH at Lee Valley.
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Different woods
Lex Luthier replied to ibreakemineedtobuildem's topic in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
COOL! -
Just like any other piece of Walnut, harder to work than Mahogany. The back is sapwood while the front is heartwood, that's why it looks that way. Thanks for your vote BTW.
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New Forum Section.........
Lex Luthier replied to Brian's topic in Site Feedback, Issue Reporting and Test area
Cool. Looks like mine and Wes's pinned threads should go over. -
I was at work so I was 17th.