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Lex Luthier

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Everything posted by Lex Luthier

  1. I found this on the net and resized it in an online GIF editor. Could this be added to the clickable smilies?
  2. I'm thinking it would shield the electronics tremendously if grounded. Again, WOW!
  3. I've built two basses with 1 1/2" thick bodies, and the standard 5/8" depth for a bolt-on neck cavity, leaving 7/8" where the neck bolts on. Not sure how thin you can go though.
  4. Yeah, is it not the best material? It's a coiled hose, so I don't know how air tight it is, but it does suck...in a good way. I wanted a metal hosing because all I needed to do to ground it was connect a small piece of wire under the hose clamp between each hose section.
  5. I have a Makita cordless drill, and a Dewalt combo base router, both my nicest quality tools.
  6. When I worked as a finisher, and a piece of furniture was stained the wrong color, we sometimes got a rag, or synthetic steel whool pad, like a scotch gaurd pad, soaked in the appropriate thinner for that stain, and 'washed' the stain off. I'm not one of the finishing experts here though...
  7. Here is a quote from my pinned Tools thread: "Keep in mind that certain tools listed may have other uses to you, not necissarily in guitar building, so keep that in mind when deciding what tools you will be acquiring." If you think you'll get more useage for your money by buying a jigsaw, then do that. Yes a jigsaw will work, just not as well as a bandsaw. BTW, I don't have the pictures anymore, but before my older sister moved out, I had my tools in my BEDROOM. I converted my desk into a router table, leaving all the drawers in place to hold stuff, and had my 8" bandsaw positioned on the router table, and at one point had my 8" drillpress sitting on my dresser!
  8. Your Tele stops tapering from the nut at the 15th fret? Weird. I like to do this once I have the bridge, or at least know the saddle spacing. I mark the scale lenght of the instrument on a big piece of paper as a center line, I then mark out the nut WIDTH and saddle SPACING. I use a straight edge to mark the two outer string positions going from the saddle position to where the strings sit comfortably at the nut, NOT at the edge of the nut width. Then I make the distance from the edge of the nut to the string equal down the lenght of the neck. I also take into the account the string diameter itself sometimes, particularly on basses, because of the noticable difference in diameter between the high and low strings, giving more space along the edge on the bass side.
  9. YES!!!!!!!!! I LOVE showing off my shop too! My Tiny Shop
  10. I don't know why everybody dis's 9" bandsaws. I used one for awhile before getting my 14"...mine was actually an 8", with a 1/5HP motor. If you use the correct blades for the job, it will work. I even resawed 4" thick EBONY with mine, however that really strained the motor. Cutting out bodies was no problem. The main problems with it were the tracking, which wasn't very good because it was a 'Companion', some super cheap overseas Sears import, and I couldn't resaw tops like I can with my 14". The 9" will work, but if you can afford it, get a 14".
  11. I think only cetain people are getting the special badges, and it would be someone who stands out in that particular field, like LGM, not someone who just finished painting their first guitar and did a really good job on it, for example.
  12. I quite like the shape of my two mini-jumbo acoustics, though if it must be eletric, the strat.
  13. Tube amp...Fender Pro Jr. Oh yeah, I also got a 1964 Standel Studio X, but it kinda blows., though the speakers are sweet, so I use it as a cab for my Fender.
  14. Not sure of the exact measurements, but they are wider down the entire lenght of the neck, and tend to be thicker, because of the added tension of double the amount of strings.
  15. They have that on Talkbass, and I find it REALLY annoying.
  16. There's lots of discussion on the MIMF, in the forum section, then in the archived library discussions(you need to register to view those) about building homemade thickness sanders. However, for a job that need to be so precise, I wood prefer to buy one myself.
  17. Well, I was gonna say one of these, like I'm gonna get, but if cost is a matter, the way you are doing it is all I can suggest, or find a local luthier, or furniture manufacturer and ask nicely if they can machine your wood for you.
  18. I upgraded to a 6" x 99" horizontal/vertical egdebelt sander, but kept my 4" x 36", which is actually right next to my edge sander in my shop. I still found my little 4" x 36" useful for lots of stuff, even with my edge sander. Just a thought.
  19. you serious? Do you mean just the materials that go into the guitar, like woods, hardware? When I said $450-$675 I meant just the hardware and woods going into the guitar.
  20. I would suggest one of the fixed/plunge base combos. I have a Dewalt 2 1/4HP base combo, really nice, though it was like $450 . I also have the Craftsman 3 1/2HP monster which I keep in my router table. If you can afford one get a base combo, and I would suggest staying with the major brands; Bosch, Porter Cable, Dewalt, Makita, Hitachi, etc.
  21. So far I've spent $450 - $675, and that's with the more 'economy' hardware/electronics.
  22. Sweet, I live in Canada. I have been thinking about doing something like this on my next bass. I actually even though about doing this on a fretless bass.
  23. Here is a pick of Goncalo Alves crotchwood from http://www.nordstrandguitars.com/index.html Here is a pick of Walnut crotchwood from http://www.galleryhardwoods.com/gallery_1.htm#, it's in the third row down, third piece from the left. They also have non-crotchwood Goncalo Alves on the second page. They look fairly close in color, why not get a similar looking type of wood, and maybe stain it slightly?
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