erikbojerik

7 months

or when I spill it in the car....

Dude - if you can't make an accurate centerline on a template, how do you expect to do one on an actual body? You'll need it, you know....

Please note - 99% of router accidents happen either routing endgrain or when climb cutting. Make sure you know where to place your fingers so that if the bit grabs the piece, your fingers won't be dragged into the bit. You won't have time to react...

Hey - my local Best Buy just got a musical instruments section. Seriously. They seem to cater to all the kids trying to make the leap from Guitar Hero.

The Supreme has a fairly large plate for the output jack - the wiring channels are routed into the body before the maple top is glued on, then the pickup routs are done before carving the top. The wires, switch and pots are wired outside the guitar, then fished through the rout for the output jack plate, helped by accessing the cavities without the pickups in place (much in the same way you wire up archtop guitars). The pickups are then soldered to wires that lead to the switch and pots.

Yeah, I had to eliminate a floor-standing shelf with all sorts of tools on it, but was able to space some wall-hanging shelves closer together to make room for another layer - that's where the tools went. The white folded ones are the entry-level 1" thick ones @ $3 each - we'll see how they work out.

Check it out - I finally got inspired to build a downdraft sanding table. It has a 30" x 48" table surface (1/4" pegboard on 2x6 frame) on a cabinet that has inside dimensions of 25" x 48" (so it holds 3 of the 16"x25" air filters). Took me the entire weekend and ~$350 (half of that is for the fan), but it is really doing a great job keeping the dust down. The switch turns it on/off and the outlet is handy for the sandy. 5" casters (2 locking) so I can move it anywhere. The front edge of the table extends about 5" out from the cabinet, so that I can clamp to it. The table is hinged to the cabinet so you can lift it and access the filters (here I have some cheap fiberglass pre-filters on top of the better white folded filters). The entire inside is caulked so that I don't lose any airflow - I want the fan to pull air only through the table. The fan is a 3000 cfm wall exhaust fan, and it is amazingly quiet. Even when I'm not sanding, I'll turn it on just to circulate and filter the air in the shop; it will circulate all the air in the room every 2-3 minutes.

I'll try out a 12" one in carbide let me know the price. You want carbide if you want them to last. Specify the top bearing, and diameter of the top of the bit, to be 1/2" (the 1/2" bearing is a standard size) - specify the depth of cut to be 2". I can send you a schematic drawing if you like. The guy who made mine is now on disability (damn cancer). When he made mine originally, I gave him a list that included 9.5", 10" and 12" then later I told him to drop the 10" - but bymistakely he dropped the 12"...so I'm in need of a 12". When he made these, he machined the shafts and the blades separately, then made a jig to attach the blades to the shaft so that the two flutes were exactly the same distance from the shaft (otherwise the thing would chatter like hell).

The first electric guitar I owned in high school did this - a Sears catalog LP knockoff! May I suggest going to Toys-R-Us and trying one of theirs out....

On the contrary - it means you can talk them down in price!

Found it: http://www.bernunzio.com/item.php?sku=0811821 Here are the issues I see that take away from it's vintage worth: 1- non-original finish all over 2- serial number has been restamped (after refinish), which calls into question it's authenticity 3- non-original tuners 4- switch ring, pickguard & pickup covers look too white for 50s (compare with the binding in photo #06), and so maybe pickups are not original 5- switch tip, knobs, bridge look OK but I would need a closer look They don't show a control cavity shot that would be required to authenticate the 50s vintage and electronics-which might mean there are pot/cap authenticity issues.

John, what store did you see that guitar in? If they have a '52 GT @ $25k it must have issues - but there are lots of folks who would snap that up in a second as a conversion candidate. The deal with vintage instruments is this - it is not so much that it is a "Gibson" or a "Fender" - all the baby boomers who now have cash are able to drive up the prices on the instruments their guitar heros played when they were coming of age. If you cut your teeth on Led Zeppelin, you're newly retired and you have $200k lying around, you'll pull the trigger on a '59 LP. That said, the guy who said his '59 is work $500k is blowing smoke, unless it can be verified to have been owned by a famous musician. The Peter Green LP went for $500k a few years ago, and it is said that the only LP out there that could command $1M would be Page's #1. But I imagine the economic situation has helped to burst the vintage guitar bubble.

SuperSoft II is your friend: http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.a...amp;ProdID=6792

I ain't buyin' that Bob Villa line - I think you're fresh out of the joint! Rusty (Brad Pitt, sporting a flaming Hawaiian shirt) watches Danny (George Clooney) emerge from the joint in his 12-month-old tux... Rusty: "I hope you were the groom." Danny: "Ted Nugent called - he wants his shirt back." - Oceans Eleven :D

Sell the trailor when they're not looking, and use the funds to buy tools! The folding table thing could work - think also about setting one up in the driveway.

Hey David! TWO 5-ways?!?

PM sent.

You can always replace the tone knob with a fixed R-C arrangement, then install something like an EMG afterburner. For my part, I replaced the last tone knob with a push-pull that turns on the neck pickup, so that I can get a bridge+neck combo (Tele-like) or all-3 on together.

Are you certain that you have absolutely NO cross-contamination between the two wheels, i.e. you didn't accidentally put some "medium" on the "fine" wheel? If not, then you need to make sure you completely clean the medium grit off the guitar before moving to the fine wheel. It could be that the fine wheel is contaminated with dust/dirt from shipping, etc - so you could try to clean it up and try again. After that, try to buff a little lighter so that the cotton doesn't dig in quite as much.

Just found some stock from last year available for fretboards - the top one is lacewood, the bottom one ziricote. I also have a 5" wide version of the lacewood if anyone's in the mood for an extended-range bass. And lots more bloodwood.

Here are some shots of a few boards that passed through the shop near the end of last year. Figured bloodwood 28-fret Gabon ebony Ziricote, wenge and maple

+1 If you have trouble with compensation and intonation on a regular guitar, you'll go insane with a multiscale.

I'll let you know this spring - only one thinned coat goes on the soundboard. Lacquer is traditional on acoustics. Tru Oil would be fine everywhere except the soundboard, unless you sealed with shellac first.