mdw3332

I'm going to dye the mohogony body of my Tele project and bind it. I'm not sure of the correct sequence. I'm thinking I should bind it first, scrape and then dye. My thinking is that if I dye it first, the glue run-out and scraping will just botch up the dyed part. Suggestions? Thanks, Marty

Happy birthday youngster. Marty

unclej, thanks. Varathane is a polyurethane varnish that I believe is used commonly on flooring. I'll do some testing. Marty

Anybody ever used a wipe on finish of equal parts Linseed Oil, Varathane and Turpentine? Marc at Gilmer Woods suggested it. Any idea on how it would work on Cocobola? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Marty Here's what it is for: Cocobola

That's some wild stuff. I was at Gilmers last week and bought a nice piece of Swamp Ash and a piece of Alder. Marc is pretty helpful and does know building. Marty

I'm working on projects for 3 friends. I won't talk to them about money - other than parts. I make it clear that I am an amateur who does this for fun and relaxation. I also won't be tied to a deadline. I had one guy who bought a Warmoth neck for a Strat I'm doing. When he brought it over, he asked me if he could watch me do the neck rout. I finally said no - I didn't want to be rushed. I work when I want to on what I want to - if I can help out friends, thats great.

Southpa, thanks. That's about what I figured - I just thought someone might have a different method. I know about the scale issue, I don't do anything with the bridge until the neck is attached. Thanks for the reply, Marty

I am mounting a Warmoth neck on a home made Strat body and I have a question. I want to use the pre-drilled holes in the neck, but I'm not quite sure how to get the body holes drilled so they match the ones in the neck. Any advice on how to mark / line up the holes? Thanks, Marty

M_A_T_T, Here is the original question: It's surprising how many guitarists give me that confused look when I say the word "luthiery." For those who don't know, this is the art of building guitars. More to the point, I'd like to learn it. I know basics, and I'm learning more basics from a friend--"basics" being those little tweaks non-pros can make to their guitars without ruining them: replacing pickups, adjusting the truss rod, getting good intonation, and so on. But I'm thinking about starting a business in this music-deprived corner of Texas, and I don't think I can keep one running steady just replacing pickups. Apropos, I'm looking to learn how to build guitars. Seeing as how I'm in college anyway, I'd like to spend my time paying for an education I'll use. Practically. So does anyone know of any schools of luthiery? I know Musician's Institute (Hollywood, CA) offers a certificate program in its Guitar Craft Academy, but I'm trying to keep my per-semester tuition below 10 grand. If anyone knows of any other schools of luthiery, whatever the price, or if there's anywhere to go where I'd be able to pick up a decent amount of kno"wledge in this area, please let me know. Thanks!" My sense is that this is from a young guy asking a legitimate question - I just think he deserves an honest assessment of what the world is like.

Rich and Russ Yeah, I normally wouldn't think twice about something like this, but I just hope that the kid who asked the question doesn't get the wrong idea about the real world. I have built for 3 years and just finished a guitar that I was really proud to show my player friends - then I took it apart to refinish it. The building I do for friends is for the price of parts and the understanding that I am very capable of making terrible mistakes - no promises. Rich, so true about the wood and parts - luckily, I know this guy up in Portland........... I still haven't started anything with the Black Limba or Spalted, but I do look at them a lot. Thanks a lot. You had mentioned a show in Tacoma - is that the American Luthier's Guild? A guy here locally mentioned it and I wasn't sure if that's the one you were talking about. I've got family there, so a trip up is a possibility. Marty

Godin. Simple, elegant and classic.

The following is a quote from another forum in response to a guy asking about building / repairing schools: PLEASE NOTE: THIS IS NOT MY QUOTE! "Just do a search on google or yahoo, there are easily a couple dozen guys out there with one training method or another and they are affordable. There are even a few colleges that teach it now, one I believe is in Indiana. It is a school that focuses on primarily violin training so also keep in mind being a luthier means building stringed instruments in general. I found a few guys some years back that give like anywhere from 3 week to a month or two training courses and some even give you room and board for a very reasonable price that covers everything. If you're fortunate enough to live where there is a guitar factory of some type, you will often get on the job training but I suspect they will do things in a factory line system. If one guy is the best at installing bridges, that is where he is going to be placed. If you think about it, this would be the very best set up but under the premis that each worker is in fact a luther that can do every aspect of the job, from body carving to paint to neck work to electronics. With a set up like this where everyone is a well skilled worker but each has their own little department they are best at, you're going to produce guitars efficiently and of high quality. Buy all your parts from Asia, your wood directly from a saw mill and you're going to be able to produce better guitars than the competition here or otherwise. If you are smart, you'd buy your wood from an Amish owned sawmill and probably cut your overhead on wood in half..when compared to a major commercial supplier anyways. I should be getting paid for this" END OF QUOTE I responded that his last paragraph was pretty bad information to give a young guy starting out and the poster just went ballistic on me. Now, I really don't mind (especially since I am a mod on the site and can zap him ), but I wanted some folks with experience building to let me know what they think about his analysis. And 3 weeks to a month or two to learn everything? Is it really that easy and I'm just missing something?. Any thoughts?

Good advice, but I would also consider the kind of wood. I'm a lot more conservative with harder woods.

Speed Control I use this - works great.

Cocobola on chambered Mahogony.

I had this one saved - looks pretty good. FRETS.Com

Got mine this morning - hand delivered. In case any of you don't know, Rich is world class guy and a delight to do business with. And his wife is cool too. Thank you Rich, Marty

Rich, I sent you a PM. I'll take one. Marty

Nate, thanks, I love the Tele look too. I did use Zinsser - in rattle cans. I'm not completely satisfied with the finish, but I can't bring myself to stop playing it and taking it apart to re-do. Marty

Be aware that just using an oil will invalidate Warmoth's warranty.

Swamp ash body with a Warmoth neck. SD Vintage 54 pups and Fender bridge and tuners. It needs a touch of tweaking, but it plays very well and has a good deal of the old Tele twang. The finish is a couple of coats of amber shellac and a few coats of clear shellac. I may re-do the finish as I think it could be better, but I like playing it better than any other one I've built. Advice, criticisms welcome. Marty (Yes, the bridge is just slightly off set from the pickguard - I hadn't noticed it until I looked at this picture.)

Great work. I love everything about - it is different but still a "classic" type design. If you are going to be influenced by someone, David is a pretty good choice.

I understand it is widely used for guacomole guitars.

I think that Drak is the one that recommended using CA.

Works for me. You guys can help me get the shop organized.