RAI6

It almost sounds like your clear is doing just fine, but your "color" isn't.... Was your color coat "perfect" before you sprayed the clear?

I still don't quite understand the concept of placing a pickup in a "harmonic" position... I understand that you have the octave harmonic at the 24th fret, but as soon as you fret a note, that harmonic has now moved. So, unless you only play open strings, I don't see how it could make a difference. Someone enlighten me, please......

I wouldn't do that... As mentioned, the veneer is really thin. If you have the veneer already on, and then turn the guitar over and start packing the holes with the epoxy, you could create little mounds where you push the epoxy against the veneer. It's just better if you have the epoxy in, and make sure that the surface is so smooth that you cannot see the holes when shooting some primer on it. That's the way I would go. And you may not need to do any more than just put some tape on the inside of the cavity while filling the holes with epoxy, and remove it when you're done...

So, you're going for a flat top, without the armrest, eh? Is that comfortable....? Seems like that would be somewhat irritating...

Please note..... Piezos are NOT pickups! They don't go in the regular pickup positions. They go in the bridge. If you already have something like a standard "Fender" flatmount bridge, the "Ghost" system comes with replacement saddles. If you have a Floyd, it's not going to be as easy...

Piezos are usually in the bridge saddles...

And to give a slightly more detailed answer..... You cannot go from a vintage trem/flatmount, to a TOM without "screwing up" the finish. These bridges don't have a single screw hole in common. And the TOM won't cover the old holes either. And then there is the neck angle. A TOM is so much "taller" than a vintage trem/flatmount, that you would need to angle your neck. Standard angle is around 2-3 degrees. Lots of work. Not just something you just "slap on" in an afternoon....

I have seen design where the tuners were "fanned" out, with the proper spacing. The strings went straight back from the bridge, to a row of "posts" that allowed the strings direction to be altered, while maintaining the straight pull over the saddle.... Absolutely do-able.

Why not just get an A/B switch pedal.....?

Inside of nut to center of 12th fret. That's all you need to calculate your scale length. From what I've seen so far, the high E's saddle position equals out to be at the scale length...

As for tuners being "loose", there's only three things I can think of that are "user" fixable. The "knob" of the tuner could be loose. Just tighten the little screw on the end of it. The whole tuner is loose in it's hole. Tighten the nut that's at the base of the post on the front. And finally, if it's the type that uses a small screw on the back of the headstock, tighten that. Sealed tuners are really sealed, so I wouldn't recommend to take them apart to fix anything...

I think what you're saying is "how do I put 7 strings on a bridge that only has 4 holes...?" Well, it has 4 mounting holes. That's what you use to screw the bridge to the body. Then it still has 7 holes for the strings... Installation would be as mentioned above. Drill one hole all the way through, the other partially. Then flip it over and finish off the job... Enjoy!

If anything you could just make your flat mount bridge into a string-through body flat mount. That should help you a little tone/sustain wise...

The drawback to basing your measurements on everything being "bottomed out", is that if something goes slightly wrong and you would need to adjust down, you're already there... I would rather go with putting things centered/midways, so that there's a little room for adjustment/errors...

Plan, plan, plan........ Draw things out on paper, full scale... Measure everything at least twice, before cutting. Plan, plan, plan......

I have Hamer USA experience, but I'm not really familiar with the Korean stuff. If they maintain any kind of Hamer QC, it should be a good buy...

Do the frets have noticable "grooves" in them, or is it just a question of "feeling"? I would start with some steelwool (highest grade you could possibly find!) Tape off the fingerboard, and just polish up the frets. Go along the fret, one fret at a time, not along the fretboard. You don't have to tape off the whole fingerboard either... I do it one fret at a time. Place some masking tape on each side of the fret, and polish. Remove the tape, and move it to the next fret. As for the fingerboard itself, some lemon oil should take care of that... This is a minor investment, and may very well be more than enough to make your neck feel better... You may already have the lemon oil, so all you need is the steelwool (and don't try to use the regular "kitchen cleaning" kind!), and you're good to go.

Looks pretty darn good! Reminds me of a PRS. But..... Is it just me or is the bridge crooked? Looks like it closer to the neck on the bass side...

Looks good! I wouldn't do that headstock though....

Something like that maybe....?

It's quite obvious that they are holes. It looks to be a hollowed out body (frame, if you will), with a top over it. You can clearly see the light going through the holes, casting shadows on the inside. Another giveaway is that they used a clear piece of plastic to attach the controls to, as the holes in the body didn't line up properly. Which they could have done, if they wanted to... Now, to call them "soundholes"... I don't think there is much of any kind of sound being generated in that body. Just imagine an acoustic guitar with no top on it, with the bridge attached to a block, which is attached to the sides... If there isn't a "chamber" to really create a sound in, what kind of sound do you end up with...?

I think what the author meant was it took one hour to set up the guitar for the first time. After that, you never have to tune it again. Fine adjustments when changing strings, but never full-on tuning. I'd take a 1 hour inital set-up, if that meant I never had to tune again! As for the look of those headstocks.... It looks pretty silly. Just go headless. or at least reduce the head to something not as strange looking. Yes, they do look strange when they're "naked".....

You're removing the paint? Why? If you're going for a "solid" swirl, why go through all the hassle of removing the finish, just to refinish it again? Sand it down enough for the primer to grab, and off you go.......

How about a Peterson Virtual Strobe? They just came out with a pedal version......... http://www.petersontuners.com/products/strobostomp/index.cfm

Yeah, you guys are right about Paul's Iceman. They tried to simply break a mirror, but unfortunately, it doesn't break in perfect pieces. You get everything from large sheets, to small "crumbs" of mirror that you need to glue back together. Not very practical to work with, plus it may not look as "cool" as you though it would. It seems to me that the best way is to cut it, so that you can get the perfect design. But I think you really need to angle/adjust the pieces so that they just don't lay flat together. If you don't, I don't think the "break" will really look like much... It has nothing to do with refracting lasers or anything like that, but I just don't think it will stand out much if you leave it "perfectly" flat. And if you angle the pieces: They noticed when doing Paul's guitar that even when cutting, the edges (where the breaks are) are razor sharp, so they ended up grinding down the edges slightly, giving it a minor bevel. It sounds like alot of work, so I can understand why it costs quite a bit to have it done......