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mammoth guitars

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Everything posted by mammoth guitars

  1. When you get close to the depth with your chisel finish it with a scraper.
  2. If its bare wood, swell the dents out with a wet rag and a hot soldering iron, wait until dry then sand smooth.
  3. Just more wires to solder, battery to locate and install.
  4. Wiring is different but installation is typically the same.
  5. Use polished nickel hardware versus chrome. It will tarnish a bit on its own and has more of a vintage look than chrome.
  6. What Mick said and I could not open your file, there was an error.
  7. I agree with Doug, 1/2 inch by 3tpi. Here is one we use.
  8. Put all your grounds to one common point ie your tone pot. Run the bridge ground and add a switch ground to this common point.
  9. Minimum: Volume, Tone and Pickup switch. Many commercial guitars have a useless tone control. The tone control can be usefull if tuned with the correct cap value that works with the pickups. For position, the volume should be inline with the bridge to make volume swells easy, but far enough that you do not strike it when strumming. The switch should be near the volume and at an angle in line with the strum so it can be changed quickly. Tone should be somewhere so it does not interfere with the other two. That is just our preference.
  10. Taylor uses urethan to finish their guitars. Unless you know for certain your guitar has a lacquer finish you may have visible line where urethane meets lacquer.
  11. According to the Marshall JCM900 manual there is a line output and an effects loop. If the effects loop send does not cut the audio path in the amp you could use this as an output to another amp or use the line output direct into another amp. In either case use the line in or effects return on the secondary amp.
  12. No, that's the whole point of using schottky diodes - at low currents, some schottkys have a Vf as low as 150mV. Seriously, unless you're using Invaders or something similar, this project is likely to disappoint. When you can pick up a DS-1 or a YJM-308 for less than fifty bucks (or a B€hring€r or Dan€l€ctro for half that), why even bother? I agree and some shottkys can have a .5 vf. It will be a crackly sound at best.
  13. The pickup impedance is not always an indication of the pickup's output. The magnet type and pole configuration have a lot to do with it as well. You must use germanium diodes which switch at .3 volts. 300mV is considered a high output pickup. It will probably work best with pickups that are 400mV+ output. This will give you better playing dynamics.
  14. What you are describing is how those guitars are built. They have a thin tongue that extends from the end of the fretboard to the back of the pickup route. Total neck pocket length from the back of the pickup cavity to the edge of the body is about 2.75 inches.
  15. You could add a small piece of wire to extend to whatever length you need.
  16. Wasn't there a song about that....just a little patience
  17. There are some router bases that have a dust collection outlet that will fit a shop vac hose.
  18. You can use a rotary phase convertor for single phase 220v versus replacing the motor, probably will cost the same either way.
  19. We have a 1995 Les Paul Custom that weighs in at a whopping 13 pounds. It's a beast to carry around for any length of time. Our new Touchstone semi-hollow weighs in at about 7 lbs.
  20. Disconnecting the bridge ground wire will not affect whether the pickups are working. If the strings are not grounded you will hear hum on higher gain settings.
  21. We sell caps separately, joined, glued and ready to apply to the body wood. What are you looking for?
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