mammoth guitars

Killemall, Wooden dowels in the suggested use, expose end grain to the screws, not much strength, whereas maple plugs, set properly with the grain and glued will be much more secure. Just my .02cents!!! MK The holes in the body are through holes that do not require strength for the screw to connect, the screws bolt to the neck not the body.

Use Quickwood epoxy filler - easy to use like play-doh.

A retail packaged Floyd Rose style nut should have included some shims to set the height. Kahler locking nuts keep the standard nut in place.

It is designed to swing over a belt sander to put a radius on a piece of wood.

Pre-slotted and inlayed fretboards - http://www.custominlay.com/

My measurement is from a 1960 reissue classic, perhaps the other models are different.

From the second picture it looks like you might be ok. The nut shelf parts that are greater than the nut width will be cut off and it appears you are only short on the right. Its tough to tell with small cam phone pictures, perhaps others will see something different.

Its 5/8" thick at the bridge pickup.

Good luck Mike.

You can use a longer one way truss rod, cut to length and retap the end.

+1 Always use a thinline mechanical pencil (.5mm) when marking positions or lines.

The ground in the guitar comes from the jack - so the hot and the ground go from the jack to the switch and to the pickup as well. When the switch is closed it will short the hot to ground and the pickup signal as well as the input to the amp will be shunted to ground.

Premium bits made in America https://www.onsrud.com/xdoc/wood

We have some of the fine knurled on our clearance page and they are identical to the stewmac coarse knurled speed knobs except for the knurl.

They are cutting that wide board into 3 pieces, two of which appear to be neck blank size and the other a 7 or so inch width for two piece bodies. They are making good use of the wood for matching body and neck pieces.

Yes the 250k pot on the tone control would be similiar to a 500k pot tone turned down. You may want to try different cap values to dial in the type of hi-frequency roll-off you are looking for in a tone control. A smaller cap moves the roll-off frequencies higher and the larger cap moves the roll-off frequencies lower towards the mids. A tone control merely bleeds off the higher frequencies to ground so they are not present in the output.

I am keen to replace 2 x 500k pots in one of my twin humbucker builds to WARM the sound as it is too bright for me.....I believe the timbers I used created this situation (Queensland Maple body with a Sheoak top). The stew mac website advises that 250k pots will give a slightly warmer tone but doesn't refer to a loss of output. See the following link http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Electronics,_p...-Pull_Pots.html Does MG or anyone else know more about this reduced output issue? The stew mac link also confirms that 250k pots are ok with humbuckers. Cheers. Using a 250k pot in place of a 500k for the volume control will reduce the output - not exactly but similiar to a 500k pot turned down about half way. You can note that a guitar with a 500k volume pot will warm up when the volume is turned down unless it has a bleeder cap installed. The output of the pickup is across the pot to ground with 500k, its 500k ohms to ground and with a 250k its 250k ohms to ground or half. So its output is reduced due to the decreased resistance to ground.

For the volume problem it sounds like the ground is not connected.

A router with bearing bit is design to accomodate the bearing. I doubt you will find a retrofit kit.

That is 500 0hms and will not work for a guitar. A 500k pot is 500,000 ohms.

You can use 250k pots with humbucker pickups as a drop in. The differences over a 500k pot in the same guitar can be reduced output and slightly darker or less bright sound.

1/2 inch will work fine for all routes of a standard Strat body.

+1 on the Grainger explosion proof fan.

Sounds like your bridge ground is not connected.

Is it Primavera?