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RonMay

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Posts posted by RonMay

  1. I guess this is morphing in to a rejuvenate thread. :)

    I thought  I should have a better neck rest for working on this Regal. I had been just resting it on a 4"X 4" piece of wood that was actually the sawed off top to the privacy fence around the back yard.

    I made a radius on one side and then covered it with some old indoor / outdoor carpeting. I think it will work ok. :)

     

    Ron

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    • Like 3
  2. Crusader

     

     

     This is the reason why I joined, and I can tell you that I have not been disappointed in the least.

    I'm trying to rejuvenate an old mid to late '60s Regal Jumbo Western ( dreadnought) Regal guitar. It belonged to my late brother and it's the one I learned to play on at 13 yrs. old or so.

    The price to fix it is pretty steep and I'm trying to take care of the repairs that I can while taking care of some of the aesthetic issues as I can when it's back to good playable condition again. This will knock down the repair cost for any issues that I can't or don't feel comfortable doing. 

    Thank you for the welcome.

    Ron

    • Like 1
  3. Yeah, I'm ok here. There's some small branch debris and one limb in the front yard by the street cracked and more small debris on the roof, but other than that it's ok. We only had the power go out for a couple of minutes, but a lot of the lower Rio Grande Valley had a lot of shortages that have since been restored.

    Thanks for asking. :)

     

    Ron

  4. curtisa

    The only mineral oil I know of and know where to buy it comes from H.E.B.

    Here's what it says about it.

    "For the relief of occasional constipation (irregularity). This product generally produces movement within 6 to 8 hours. A lubricant laxative, that is odorless, tasteless and colorless. Active ingredient: mineral oil 99.9%. Inactive ingredient: mixed tocopherois (added as a stabilizer)." 

    :D:D:D:D Talk about off label usage.

    At least no one could say that I play like s#%t.

     
    Ron
  5. I started cleaning the fret board this morning and the safety blade is working fine. There's still a little bit of low finger spot low place, but it looks tons better.

     

    before then after

    Regal fret board resize 500.jpg

    20200721_095250.jpg

     

    After I am finished I will need to condition the board. Is mineral oil ok to use, or what is best with out paying for "fret board cleaner and conditioner" sold online or in guitar shops?

  6. I quite agree Bizman62 .

    I think the razor blade is the way I'm going to go.  We both contributed to it's wear. It's been out of service for about 20 years. That was the last time I played it. I don't know how much my brother played it after he got it back from me. The sentimental value not only because he played it , but it's the one I first learned on when I was about 13 years old or so.

    Thank you !

    Ron

  7. I have also been thinking about the cracks.

    I have watched Mr. Rosa fix them and thought maybe I could also try that.

    I could use a 1/4"  fine all thread rod with a 1/4" coupler to make an adjustable tool to brace up the body while holding the cleat in place.

    Something like this:

    All thread rod and coupler for brace support

    Both are shown on the second row.

    It's something for me to think about.

    Ron

  8. I didn't know that wood dust and glue was a thing. I'll do some research and find out how to do this. this would surly save me some time  and money.

    I have watched Mr. Rosa and I actually contacted him through his website and he's one of the best I've seen online. I got sort of a semi quote from him as to the cost and that's why I'm trying to fix the things that I think I can.

    I'll find out how and see if I can do it.

    Thanks for your insight.

     

    Ron

  9. 6 minutes ago, curtisa said:

    Can you not measure what is already still left attached to the top and use that as a reference, or has the bridge been removed before and re-glued in the wrong position?

    The normal way to place a new bridge would be to measure along the treble side of the neck from nut to 12th fret and double this distance. You could potentially add perhaps 2mm to this distance to give yourself a little more leeway to approximate better intonation. The leading edge of the treble-side of the saddle goes at this point.

    The rest of the bridge still needs to be placed perpendicular to the centreline of the neck, and centrally located to ensure the outer strings don't start diving off the sides of the neck. The angled saddle should assist with guaranteeing intonation is correct across all six strings, provided the high-E is placed at the nut-to-12-fret-times-two distance (plus a hair), provided the rest of the bridge is positioned squarely on the top relative to the centreline of the neck.

     

    Not sure what you mean here. You'll have to provide us with a picture of what you're describing.

    I misheard what was being said in some videos. Nut would be the right term.

    I'm going to have to have the fret board replaced so maybe I should wait until that's done.

    Would that be the right move? I found the information you gave me on stewmac's website with the bridge / saddle calculator.

    Thanks so much for your help.

    Ron

  10. Hey y'all, I just signed up and I'm looking forward to meeting and getting to know you.

    I'm 67 and it's been a long time since I played and for never , literally, to actually repair one.

    I'm a total newbie so, there's that.

    Anyway, have a good day and see y'all around the forum.

     

    Ron

    • Like 2
  11. First off I am a total newbie to guitar repair, so if I say something that seems stupid, it probably is.

     

     My Brother died about a year and a half ago and my niece finally sent his two guitars to me.One is a late model Alvarez , the other is a mid to late 60s Royal jumbo western.

    The Royal needs a lot of repair to get it playable and I am wanting to semi restore it.

    It has a loose brace in the bottom part of the guitar, the bridge was partially pulled off leaving most of the bridge intact, the saddle which is completely worn down. The fret board needs replaced, it has two major cracks in the back towards the bottom round corner, the tuning machine is junk because of loose worm gear / peg gear connections, The nock (?) is needing replacing as well.

    There's probably a few more things I haven't mentioned but I am wanting to do the simpler things like the bridge / saddle / nock / tuning machine myself.

    Right now I'm looking for measurements on the distance between the fret board and the saddle, and bridge so I can get started in removing the old one and replacing it with a new one.

    I hope this is the right part of the forum for this. If not, a suggestion as to where to post would be greatly appreciated.

     

    Thanks y'all .

    RonGEDC0041.JPG.d1873ec4f81c0b23730b4ddd4bbb0671.JPG20200714_115327.thumb.jpg.d7c9f1acb87f7c211d75bb972e55756b.jpg

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