low end fuzz

im working on a 5 string right now, and i had to replace the bridge; its not a great guit; but whatev; it needed the string spacing of 2 3/4 to 2 13/16 so i ordered an economy bridge from allparts which said the string spacing was 2 13/16; well sir, i rested it on my body and began to line up my string path and both strings are ready to fall the edge of my guitar; i measure my saddles (from string space to string space) and its a whopping 76mm (3") now i dont care about the bridge because i'll just make a fingerboard that it can accomidate, so no problem; i write them and explain my problem and ask them if they could physically measure one (or at least tell me why its off more than a 1/8 " ; so they write me back and tell me they could send ''this one'' which happens to be the one i have problems with; now i know you get what you paid for, but does it usaully conflict with measurements? i dont know what they could be measuring to make up the 3/16? is this common? i make my fingerboards to the bridges i have at the time so i dont know what will happen if i order a bridge from somewhere else? is it gonna be 3'' too? so if anyone bought a 5 string bridge from stewmac; allparts or lmi could you measure it; and if its 2 3/4" - 2 13/16" could you please gimme the description and/or number thank you very much

1.yup 2.why bother; throw in graphite strips or 1/4 square bar parralell to truss rod on both sides (most extreme case) 3. your wrapping purpleheart in oak; i think it'll make it. although for me, more laminates = more better (asthetically)

rattle cans always create problems, because the pressure is not steady; usually when theres a problem with the sheen; its due to scratches; wheather they are visible or not; high sheen is when the scratches are almost gone; satin is fine scratches everywhere eliminating reflecting light; (i think i said that right) orange peel is from a few things; if it goes on too heavy or too quik; air can get in the finish and be trapped; another cause is oil and/or silicone left under the paint; yoiur best bet is to resand everything ; start at 220 and level everything out flat; id start to wetsand to hide any fine scratches and go as high a number (without skipping too many between) grit sa you can; dont use steel wool; it contains oil which will effect your paint; after that repaint it; but do the lightest coats in the world; it will prolly take 3-5 coats but you will have no runs and it will dry fast which takes away the risk of falling dust; which means no sanding and youll be left with the same color you sprayed with

ya...... when i lost my spray booth i lost my buffer; and no power drill accesarry or cheap buffer could even get as good as this; i tried; but if i had my 2H buffer, i would use brush on laquer/poly and sand the s#!t out of 'em thats why i even bother with all these extra steps but point taken

imo; if your going to buy all these tool supplies you might aswell buy some of the materials in bulk for future projects; and if your going to spend 800$ on materials, you should find some pickups a little more worthy than the stewmacs; i use alot of them on prototypes all the time; there good, but drop an extra 100$ on something with balls; like somthing vintage; if you dont have an old music guy in town ebays not a bad way to go; but it looks like your organized; wanna do MY bookkeepin?

now that im without a spraybooth to use; i decided that i would go with oil; always wanted to use soft finishes; unfortuanatly;though i like th eidea of a 'woodier' tone and simple fixes, it just dosent have the lustre i thought i could et out of it; even from the ones boasting 'high lustre'; alot of the tung oil out there is actually wiping varnish ,which is not good; i tried some shellac, first as a sealer so i didn't have to fill all the porus lumber perfectly; then i kept building layers and leveling them out; i dilluted it to prolly under 1 pound cut with methyl hidrate and just kept adding quik layers; any dust or whatever landed on it ,i would wet sand out; then after i was happy with absolutly no bumps or divets, i wiped on the polmerized tung oil; just a thick coat on left for a minute or so (not sure if its even necassary) then wiped off in a polishing fashion; it is almost a mirror finish; a little flatter; not better or worse than nitro; just different; its like a high gloss with no bright reflection; i'll take a picture when its all together; which is still a lil away; i had an accident with the first one i tried later

i think the problem was, my pilot holes were a size too small; they were definatly deep enough; as for a plug hole cutter; i get the idea (i think) of metal tubing; im guesing you would make a drilling motion with it to cut a round hole into the wood around the screw; but how would you remove the 'dowel' (containg the screw) from the wood?

so im screwing my neck to the body; pilot holes are all good and straight;lined up and what not; put all my screws in about 7/8s the way ; go back to tighten them to the body and 'snap';worst thing ever! there is a good 3-4mm of hole between the surface and the broken screw; the screw broke at the beginning of the thread. it must of grabbed a little to much of the lyptus on the side. first i tried to make a new slot in the broken piece to fit a screwdriver inside to screw it out; but after the slot was made it was to soft to try to turn and couldnt hold its form; about now i was ready to try anything; i considered moving the hole, but that would mean plugging alot of things visible; i was going to do the same thing and make a plate for the back of the body/neck joint; but moving the screws that much would look 'tarded; so what i ende up doing (with stress and regret) was cut about half the heel off from back and bottom to make a step to get me past the end of the broken screw, so i could grab vice grips and turn it out; now the grips wont work; they have nothing to grab onto i guess; so ,now im pissed (moreso) so i grab my smalles chisel and dig it out; now im left with a crater and half a heel. i redrilled the crater to 1/4'' and filled the hole w'dowel ; tommorow im gonna refit a piece onto the bottom of the heel; the problem is its so awkward theres gonna be gaps and glue lines; and im gonna have to refinish at least most of the neck! it sucks because theres a small piece of removed wood that shows in the corner of my neck pocket; so im thinkin of epoxyin the **** out of it; sand it level/smooth and paint/shade the defective area to hide the joint; whick sucks because its a 5 piece neck with a 6 piece heel of all bright colours ;maple/purple/lyptus;osage and i dont know how to make it look good and that s how i turned a 20 minute job of screwing the neck bridge and machine heads on, into a 2 hour job that got nothing done

one word.......cool

theres a tutorial in the tutorial section on this site; but for more interactive advice, go to the finishing section, and post the same message

just use lemon oil; alot of 'oils' that are made for skin and/or food sometimes leave a film making the wood seem sticky; stick w/ lemon; but if you want something pricier tung or walnut oil(not the food one) works well but they tend to stay closer to the surface and work well as a coat over dry wood and dont do well enogh as lube if your wet sanding/cleaning the wood aswell

i was refering more to the patience of removing wood ; i only thickness tops and glue lines; and that is boring; i sand for bumps and defects; cut to remove stock ; i read my first post and i did say i didnt get it; not exactly what i meant

as long as they have individual functions, im ok w/5 knobs; but how many splits/actions can you get from 2 hums? also make something to keep the wiring tight to the top; or your gonna see them dancing inside the f-hole; cool design; conservative and classy

what is that; 'crotch pommelle sappelle'? theres some cool stuff happening there

it obvioslly works for you to do them on a thickness sander, but after reading your page dont understand how you got it to work; the technique im familiar with is on a table saw; i liked your equation for working out the angle; ive been using trial and error; glue one side of laminates (including middle) run thru ancle jig on tablesaw; plane flat, and glue the other half on; but i just got my OWN thickness sander so maybe i 'll give that a whirl!

different family; making the outside pieces of the same 'family' and the middle one diffent looks asthetically pleasing

maybe you could add some pictures to go along with this question?

if you think your good enough to make a set neck (ie, snug fit, no gaps, perfect on the first shot) id suggest doing that , but instead of gluing it, screw in 4 shallow screws; then you have the benifit of fixing any errors, a set neck snug, and the security of screws without forcefully pulling your neck back into your pocket, which allows for a more un compressed sound;

you could taper the center laminate so the maple on both sides are uniform all thru the neck; but if its a 'thru neck' design then it will also be tapered in the body; which isnt that bad; if your really worried about it, use something stronger than mahogany and it will be more than enough; i dont like mahogany, but the glue on both sides of it should keep it from going anywhere

i dont think anyone would set up a cnc for one custom body; though i could be wrong

get regular fret cutters and cut flush to the fret head from underneath using about a 1/8 of the cutter; then with edge of the cutters cut off the piece vertically; i hope that made sense;thats how you do it; maybe someone will have a quik photo to help

it looks like the piece of imbuya im using; its nice

WHAA? in the wood? like a wormy effect, or heartwood of birdseye?; thats crazy; wow i guess i wont be 'trying' anything! thanx

he is definatly an artist; i wonder their playability; and how likly breaking something off could happen, im sure their tough and laquered, but the maine of the lion is veneer done in a paper mache' type job; beutiful none the less; how does one enter gotm?

i saw abass with ;what i was told; a mineral stained poplar top; wow that looked cool! ive never heard of a mineral stain; ive heard of dilluting dyes and/or stains with mineral spirits when that is the transporter(main ingrdient)? icant remember the real word, bear with me) but never heard the term before ;is it the same thing; second; if you dye your work with water based (aniline) dyes, prior to glue,will they glue together just as well, assuming you dewhisker them for seemless lamination; or will it interfere with the hold; and if its completley dry is there a chance of bleeding into the next laminate when sanding or when the entire peice is dewhiskered?(wetted) thanx