Prostheta

Your suggestion is entirely possible, but I hate three and five-way switches :-D Somebody much more patient than I might be able to solve this one for you. I get halfway through soldering one of those SOBs and decide to change to a toggle :-/

Indeed. A master volume is very useful. Equally, you could tone tap the master signal or each individual pickup. Changing the phase of one pickup is also an option. All open up your tonal palette hugely. Mickguard, you could quite easily add a high pass capacitor to both of the blend pots opposed stacks so your treble maintains a more uniform apparent volume as you blend. That's also something I hadn't thought of! Very cool. Will have to try that one.

If the chip doesn't go through to the wood, drop fill it with CA and sand it back flush with the finish before buffing out. Simple.

170'100 pixels too many :-D That's a nice bridge there Matt. When I approached ETS, they didn't really help me out much in my quest for a bridge

Awesome. Thanks Sambo - the Stewmac link has the diagram on it also, so that would make the dimensions something like this (rendered in TurboCAD): To the Batcave!!

I bet it would probably take about the same amount of time when you include setup and the milling itself.

Viva Las Vegas baby! Total Caesar's Palace lightjob.

I've got an 8-string bridge winging it's way to me, but I really want to get to work on the neck. What hipshot don't provide (anymore) are the string spacings on their bridges which is a pain! The six-string bridges provide a 2-1/16" (52.4mm) spread which is approximately 0.4125" (10.57mm) between saddles. If the spacing is equal on the eight (or indeed, seven) string versions I guess I'll be looking at 2.8875" (73mm). Can anyone confirm this possible saddle spacing correlation between the sixs and the seven/eights? I can get butchering that purpleheart and oak neck-tenon then! Six-string bridge product linky (with specs) Eight-string bridge product linky

Inlay LEDs in the centre of the Forstner holes and pour acrylic over it.

Noooo....!! Not the buttered diamonds effect :-D That said, good suggestion re: UHMW PET!

You've tempted me Rich. I don't have any project plans to glue any blanks up for in the near future, but you might have pushed me into it here :-D

Can you imagine a President (any one will do) in front of a nuclear weapons control desk , looking avidly at a big flashing red button which says ' Don't touch'. Hmm, what does this button do?...............Press...... Similar scenario I guess. I like your brand of humour, Prostheta. Thanks, it gets me into trouble more than my fingers however Rich, I think that just sticking with the greaseproof/cookie paper to stop cauls sticking to clamps puts pay to anything else as non-stick pads on the clamps. It's economical and simple. Cork DOES make it look "more technical" though, and buttered diamonds don't stick to ANYTHING. As far as steel cross-bracing for the side clamps, I think it's infinitely better than wood now I've considered it. I'd hazard a guess that using wood would be better if using three sets of clamps. Two sets with steel braces would be cheaper also :-D

Arrgh!! My eyes, my beautiful eyes!! Damn my curiosity.

Would it not be worth attaching wooden cauls to the side clamps also, perhaps one caul per side attaching both clamp sets? I'm trying to think of something that would act as a barrier between the top/back cauls to prevent the glue line sticking....waxing perhaps?

Those are **** hot. I believe I saw some on sale in the UK when I was deciding what clamps to buy for blanks. I'm kind of kicking myself I didn't go for a set, because I didn't have a frame of reference on how well they'd work.

Ummmm. Okay. What about the UK?

The detents aren't like set positions on a switch, they're just tactile feedback that your pot is at a certain position.

Oh excellent. Now I have to go and buy a compressor. Thanks, Drak. </sarcasm>

I use acetone myself, the only difference being it's a slightly heavier aromatic hydrocarbon and a bit cheaper for me to source. The effect is the same of course :-D

Yeah, they're like opposed volume pots as you described. Essential items on basses in my opinion as pickup switches don't dial enough in!

Ergo, you won't have money for the sheer amount of filler and surface prep materials that body'll cost you also!

I found mine this morning which makes me the exception I suppose.

My wife said "FORSTNER BIT". Then she said "Strat's are g** keep the bottlecaps they look much better".

Interesting. Nothing like throwing the composites amongst the pigeons :-D

Oh yes, you don't need a "top coat" unless youre clear coating a metallic.