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biliousfrog

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Everything posted by biliousfrog

  1. biliousfrog
    I'm amazed that the neck works on that body, I read the description & thought, " oh no...he's got a neck & he's going to use it!" but when I scrolled down to the pic I was very pleasantly surprised. I'm not a fan of limba unlike most people on here, it just looks like dirty rubberwood to me , but that's just me. nice work
  2. biliousfrog
    I'm not sure that copyright of a paint job is possible otherwise I bet Zakk Wylde wishes that he'd copyrighted the bullseye...I've seen almost every type of guitar with that finish. The problem that all guitar companies face is that a tiny change stops one guitar from looking like another...even if those two WOMD guitars had the exact same finish the slightly different body shapes, bridge, knob locations, headstock etc. would prevent them from being identical. I dunno, I might have it completely wrong but I can't see that it would hold up.
  3. biliousfrog
    Have you ever seen hardened modelling clay? It's quite brittle over long lengths, even the Fimo stuff which is oven dried. I've got a large tub of the air drying stuff for sculpting & I wouldn't dare use it for making jigs. I can't really imagine how it would be used for a jig either...sure you could get the profile of the neck or whatever but it would take a lot of effort to get a flat, even surface to route on. I'd stick to pencil, card & plywood/MDF
  4. biliousfrog
    I think that GregP has the ideal solution by using a switch to bypass a single volume control. This has been discussed before but I can't recall the term used for such a switch.
  5. biliousfrog
    For future reference you should keep the saddles closer to the front of the bridge rather than the middle as they aren't going to need any forwards adjustment only backwards. Usually the higher strings will be almost on the scale length whereas the lower ones will need to be further back. By having the saddles in the middle you're essentially cutting any possible travel by half.
  6. biliousfrog
    The only other solution I could think of is to make a sharper volute transition like the Martin diamond but I don't really like that style much...hey-ho, I'm sure I can live with it
  7. biliousfrog
    hahaha....if you only ever use one strap then buy a full set & then buy just the buttons, Stew Mac sells the parts. How cheap are you thinking?...a strip of Gaffa tape over the strap ends will keep it secure but ruin the finish, those red washers on Grolsch bottles can be slipped over the buttons after the strap is fitted to stop it coming off although a chunkier rubber washer will work better....they can be expensive though , you could screw the strap button over the strap or use a metal washer in it's place...or you could do what Zakk Wylde does & screw a massive clamp thingy into the strap button hole & use a chain as a strap.
  8. biliousfrog
    I was under the impression that sealer isn't needed & can actually be detrimental as it is softer than any additional layers of finish to allow for easier sanding?...unless of course you use epoxy. Primer is designed to build quickly & should be used until the finish is flat before any paint is applied as the paint will naturally be thinner & take forever to fill any holes.
  9. biliousfrog
    Depends on what you have. A nice sharp plane works wonders if you're patient & confident with it but some woods can tear such as figured maple & sapele. A jointer takes some of the sweat out of it but the principle is the same. A router could be used with a jig as could a belt sander. The important thing is to keep things square. There have been a lot of posts about jointing, try the search facility....how are you doing it currently?
  10. biliousfrog
    I've already made a volute on one of my necks which was scarfed but it was finished in a solid colour so the join isn't obvious. The problem I have now is that I've got my rosewood neck 80% finished but I can't get the volute to look neat as it doesn't blend seemlessly between the neck & the scarfed headstock. The shape is very close to how I'd like it but the join line looks plain ugly to me as the grain is slightly different between the two pieces. Has anyone done a volute on a scarfed neck join & could you post or point me to some pictures that shows the join between it & the headstock? I'd greatly appreciate any help.
  11. biliousfrog
    no cross-grain sanding marks? It sounds like a great idea but I could imagine a lot of scratches from the disc swirling across the grain.
  12. biliousfrog
    eww, that's ugly! nicely done though, not my thing but looks like it's turned out ok which is what's important. Welcome to the forum.
  13. biliousfrog
    I agree with everyone else, those wings will be a be-atch to clamp up effectively. Very nice work so far though.
  14. biliousfrog
    £600 for an Epiphone seems like a lot to me, I can't help being a bit of a brand snob I'm afraid & that seems like a lot for a "budget" range instrument. I know that it isn't a budget instrument & that they've been quite respected over the years but I'd never pay that kind of money for an Epiphone personally. The suggestion to look out for a Hamer is a good one. They began as Gibson repair specialists & their guitars are much better built than most Gibson's. I'd definitely look at the second hand market, a good second hand guitar should outlast a cheap new one & also have some extra mojo. Maybe look at some of the early Ibanez "copy" guitars, before they made their own shapes. Some of those were great guitars...also Tokai's.
  15. biliousfrog
    wow looking good. I had an eye on your ebay auction the other day, I very nearly talked my mate into buying the bass but he couldn't get the funds in time...I'll try to get him to commission something
  16. biliousfrog
    Axminster sells inserts by Trend, I bought a couple of packs recently but haven't yet used them. http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Trend-A...aking-23495.htm I couldn't find the inserts anywhere locally & they even proved tricky to find on axminster as they're stocked as jig making accessories but they are available in the UK. They're used a lot in model aircraft & the helicoil/recoil sets are used to repair threads in all sorts of engineering applications.
  17. biliousfrog
    thanks CMA, I searched for ages but couldn't find it anywhere.
  18. biliousfrog
    Drak did a really nice Tele with sparkly blue epoxy filler, it worked great. It's not something that I would ever have expected to work but it was great.
  19. biliousfrog
    I can't offer any advice I'm afraid but I hope that you get it done because it sounds like a really nice colour combo.
  20. biliousfrog
    yeah that thread is unbelievable. Words cannot express how erm..."upset" I would be to have that happen to me. I have had something similar but nowhere near that scale of incompetence. As for the inserts...you can buy recoil sets fairly cheaply, once you have the set with the tools the inserts aren't much at all: http://www.emhart.com/products/helicoil.as...CFQvmlAodjxE4zw
  21. biliousfrog
    the jack socket looks great there, why haven't I seen that before?
  22. biliousfrog
    OMG, that is a great example of why you should know what you're doing before you start....especially botching a Gibson, an Epiphone would be bad enough but strewth!
  23. biliousfrog
    I've bought a lot of parts from axesrus & have always been impressed by the service. My first order was for a set of MM motherbuckers, when they arrived they were obviously not the right pickups, only two wires & were used....sent them an email & got a call from Jackie explaining that her husband had just removed them from a Les Paul & left them to one side, she thought that they were the MightyMite's & sent them to me. She had already put the correct ones in the post, was extremely appologetic & wasn't bothered when or if I posted the others back (I did ) Terrible website & often wrong or misleading information when it somes to body woods but excellent customer service, cheap components (especially pickups) & free delivery for any size order. Always my first call for parts.
  24. biliousfrog
    no I can't see steam working either, as Wez said steam is used to fix dents not tear out, it won't expand so much that it will fill a hole in the wood. I'm also working with sapele at the moment & have had a few bits of tear out. The easiest option is to leave 1/8" or so & use a belt sander, drum sander or thickness sander to go the rest of the way.
  25. biliousfrog
    a work collegue is in a classic rock covers band with a guy who used to play for a big 80's hair metal band, I won't say who....he has loads of guitars, mostly pointy Ibanez's, Jackson's etc with floyds & he takes them to the local music store for string changes because he doesn't know how to do it. He also covers the neck in baby-oil before playing it to help with fast widdling, my friend tried picking up his guitar once by the neck & it slipped right out of his hands onto the floor.
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