Acousticraft

I too have the problem of a compressor that is too small for the air consumption of my suction spray gun. I found if you have your pressure regulator connected directly to your spray gun then there is little line drop compared to having it mounted at the compressor. That way the compressor can run right down in pressure before it becomes too noticeable. Then you will need to stop and let it recharge again. Having a long, large diameter hose will give you slightly greater CF air storage. I can still manage to get a good finish as I cut the pressure right back till it works well at its minimum pressure around 25-30psi. Certainly having more air than you consume is the ideal.

Use only automotive lacquers in spray cans. They are harder, quick drying and better quality than enamels. I used a metallic enamel to paint my first electric and every now and then it would spit and leave dark blobs. They are still really only a second rate finish and I just wouldn't use spray cans for a guitar now after experience using lacquers with a compressor and spray gun.

I used to have that problem when I had a moustache when I use to Scuba dive many years ago. The Vaseline worked to a degree but the mask still used to leak. I finally shaved it off some time later and hey presto no more leaks. It stopped me slowly drowning all the time. LOL

I used Shellac on the first guitar (acoustic) I made. It looked nice but is too soft and sweaty hands mark the finish after a while. I personally wouldn't use it after the experience I have had. Use an oil like Danish oil or all the other brands of oil finishes out there. Much easier to apply than Shellac as it tacks up so fast.

Even better when you have to drink the beer first to be able to make them out of beer cans.

Do you string spacings match the bridge holes? I used a 1/8"x 3/4" brass plate that routed out for and inset with epoxy in the back of the guitar. Then I drilled the holes thru once the epoxy had set using the bridge as a guide to find the hole centres.

Are you using the flat bottomed Graph Tech blank nut # PN 1865. The nut should be 1/4" high for a Graph tech and Bone are 9/32" . If that is the nut the slot in the fingerboard may be cut too deep? I haven't as yet used the Fender fingerboard with the nut slot cut in it but all other nuts I have used there is quite a bit to file away to set the string heights and finished nut height. You certainly shouldn't need to shim the nut especially when it set up for the fingerboard. Unfortunately Stew Mac dont say how deep the nut slot on their fingerboards are on their web site.

Masking tape works fine.

Grovers are lifetime guaranteed so get it replaced at the shop you bought it and don't settle for anything less. I have Grover Rotomatics on my latest build and haven't had problems but do notice the tuners have a lot of play (backlash) in them.

16" is probably the bare minimum for a straight edge bar so you can do all frets at once. I have a nice straight thick piece of MDF that I glue 180 grit 3M gold paper on to with paper adhesive. Just those glue sticks kids use at school are all you need. You dont need to buy special sandpaper IMHO but I do recommend the 3M gold as it lasts so long. Check the high frets with an accurate straight edge and mark them with Sharpie pen and file them down first until they are close. Then you can mark all frets with your sharpie and use you sanding bar to level them until the sharpie wears off all frets. As far as fret crowning files go, I have the Stew Mac double edged file that has medium and jumbo fret edges. That does the job nicely.

Chrome is the only finish that is long lasting and doesn't wear off. Those gold finishes look nice but eventually wear through.

You need a thin clamping ring (caul) the outer shape of the guitar so it spreads the load evenly. I found thru trial and error to use a strip of flexible ply about 3" wide to cover the centre joint area where it sits on the centre block. It should be long enough to just fit inside your caul. Do a dry run and clamp up with no glue first and clamp the centre block area to pull it down snug and then clamp the edges down evenly bit by bit. this will highlight any possible problems that may occur. If you don't clamp the centre block area first, the pressure from clamping the edges will split the glued centre joint. (I dont know whether your ply is one piece or not but it will take the strain off this area?) You need quite a number of clamps probably a dozen or more. Have these all ready to go when you do glue it will minimise the time it takes to clamp everything snug. My centre blocks were 3/8" thicker front and back in the middle than at the edges of my 335. I was just thinking 3/16" is quite thick and you may need to steam the ply first so it will bend easily and clamp it down dry and leave it clamped for 24hrs then release the clamps and glue it.

Looking good. I assume you have a mould to clamp your sides in to keep its shape?

I use 000 steel wool followed by metal polish. It certainly sounds like lacquer if it is a Maple neck.

Looks like a pretty amazing machine with all the stuff you can do on it.

Has anyone tried those effects units you can fit into a guitar such as overdrive/distortion/chorus etc that Guitar Fetish sell? I guess they could be made into a stomp box as well.

I would imagine the pickup might sound a bit weak if they are to far off string centres.

The Low E needs scale length plus 5mm approximately to compensate for the thickness of the string. As the Tuneomatic doesn't have a huge adjustment range that is why they are angled.

It just another version of a Hotrod type double acting truss rod. The way it works is the same as a Hotrod.

I think the point made about a thin top being forced into shape with a traditional thin side, kerfed lining construction would be correct as the built in stress is high and would deform and pull apart over time. I cut my body out of a 1-3/4" thick piece of Mahogany then cut out the inside with a bandsaw leaving 1" around the edges plus the center block. The center block section then can have its profile block cut out and glued on front and back to make the total thickness about 2-1/2". Then its a matter of sanding and shaping them so when the top/bottom is forced down and glued it will conform to a nice smooth arch shape. The Maple I used did this with ease although I found had to clamp the centre block area first before pulling the edges down otherwise it will try to split on the middle join. Once everything is clamped snug and the glue has dried there is a big gluing surface to hold the stresses. The piece of Mahogany I used was heavy so the finished guitar is really heavy but has fantastic sustain. I gig with it regularly and hardly notice the weight now. When I make another I will probably cut out the excess wood not needed in the center block area behind the tail-piece and thin the sides down to reduce weight. The Maple offcuts from front/back were used to bind the fingerboard. http://s54.photobucket.com/albums/g111/One...Image0002-1.jpg

I used 1/8" thick maple top and back for my 335 copy that I thicknessed down and joined. I then radiused the centre block in both planes. Then I made a full clamping ring the shape of the guitar and clamped it with many clamps and it pulled it down tight and it gave a nice even arch. With Mahogany body and Maple front and back it has a real nice sound with full bass and sweet treble. I glued the back first so i could clean out any excess glue so when you look thru the F holes it looks nice and clean.

I was going to use thin plastic binding on the neck of my 335 I built but I made the Rosewood fingerboard to narrow, so I used 1/8" thick maple strip down each edge. Looks a lot more classy looking than plastic would have.

I believe Brian Mays Red Special was made of an old oak table?

Ive had my AD50VT for nearly 18 months and love it as it is so versatile. Heck I am still discovering new sounds on it. I love the UK80's, Blackface 2x12, AC30, Bassman models. Try the UK 70's with gain and volume cranked to the max, guitar volume on full and set volume on master. Shakes the cobwebs out.

I dont know if this would fit. http://www.warmoth.com/guitar/necks/necks....n=lp_warmothpro