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bluespresence

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Everything posted by bluespresence

  1. YES!!! I'm interested in a 2x10 (bass) cab for myself. I'd really like to find a set of Hartke's aluminum cones and put them in a box, but when I do find the speakers alone the price is so high I may as well just buy a new cab! Even the low end speakers seem to get bid up so high on the 'bay it's not worth it. So, yes I am interested, but is it really worth it? If someone has a source for reasonably priced speakers I think it is. my 2 cents! cha-ching!
  2. "schwiiing!!!" That bass is downright beauuuuutiful!
  3. I was looking at that LP kit too. Problem is when I first saw it the bids were down at $21. I was hoping no one else would see it and I could get it for under $75! That just never happens does it! I agree with Ace, if you can buy a neck cheaper than parts cost and time involved then buy it. If you have the desire and time to make it then build it. I get much more satisfaction out of building, but I don't always have the time (especially for necks) so I end up buying them.
  4. It's routed down about a half inch so you can really dig into the strings when you're slappin' and poppin'. For what I paid it sure is a nice bass.
  5. I found out that the BC Rich Bich basses are made of poplar. Jackson, Ibanez, Fender, MM and just about everyone uses it on one guitar or bass. Hey canuck, how's a carved top strat sound. Just a strange idea I had when gluing up the body today (fumes maybe!). I saw a link on here somewhere where a guy was doing a Ric copy with a body he had. He put the German carve in the top, etc. That was one beautiful project! Gave me some great ideas that got me motivated to do a guitar. we'll see what happens. I'm sure it will be for sale when I'm done with it. I'm thinking about just doing the body and letting the buyer finish it with the neck and hardware of his choice. I have all the strat templates for body, pu's neck pocket, neck, etc so I could even rout it and save someone a bunch of time. We'll see, you know how these projects get out of hand! PS: How do I put a pic right in my posting? I would rather do that than have to put a link in here. Us older guys need a little computer education Funny, because I program PLC's for a living but that is pretty straight forward compared to this.
  6. To me it all depends on the wood. Nice figured or grianed wood gets clear nitro. Little or no figuring or lack of grain gets paint covered in high gloss nitro. Although I did paint a mahogany body once.... I tried for a "pickled" look using white stain to highlight the grain and ended up with a pink bass. It was quickly resanded and painted. My wife liked the pink but it wasn't my style.
  7. Check these out for some peeks at the finished product!! http://www.edromanguitars.com/wood/spalted.htm
  8. Well, I found something to do with the wood. I read up on poplar and found almost every company is using it for guitars. Project one has begun! I dug out the strat templates and 60 minutes later (saw, saw, sand, sand, plane, plane, sand, sand.....glue, glue, clamp, clamp, clamp, clamp) I have a poplar strat in the clamps. Tomorrow I'll pull the clamps and begin shaping...... I love this stuff! Too bad I play bass..........
  9. I have GHS Infinity Steels on my Grind that are red. I like the look with the natural finish of the wood and I always get comments on the strings. Now if I could play well enough to get comments on that I'll be doing good! I've had mine on my bass for 4 months and have had no color loss. Of course I don't use a pick like you guitar guys and that may wear the color quicker. Pic is big and may take a few seconds to load. http://home.centurytel.net/bluespresence/1...105_0595_r1.jpg I looked on the GHS site but I didn't see if the guitar strings are colored or not. They do mention the "metal surface treatment" coating process though. I saw blue and black strings on musicians friend at one time......
  10. Here's the link for the pu. Only two wire. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...item=2572117843 They have a store in Milwaukee, Wisconsin. See the link I posted earlier in this thread for an 800 number. Give them a call they may have what you need it's just not listed.
  11. I think you should just forget that piece of wood and give it to me so I can properly "dispose" of it. Seriously, that is a beautiful piece of wood. I've never worked with spalted because everything I've read says "don't finish yourself". I'm sure if you go to the local hardwood dealer or flooring shop someone will have all the info you need to make that look even more beautiful than it is in the picture above.
  12. Goes between the nut and the tuner to hold your d and g string in the nut. It's used on a 4 in a row. 2 + 2 doesn't need it. Take a look at a Fender bass - it's the round thing on the peghead by the tuners.
  13. Looks Great!! Here's the link for Bocote @ Warmoth. http://www.warmoth.com/common/frames/guitarneck.htm Says it needs no finish. Looks too beautiful to me to cover with anything - even clear!
  14. I took a little drive today and ended up at the hardwood store......... Ok I didn't spend TOO much money but I did end up with enough to make six more guitars! Enough nice straight maple for 4 and I had to try the poplar. I can't remember offhand if it was Fender or not, but someone used poplar in their basses in the 50's, 60' and 70's. Supposed to be fairly light and have great tone for a bass. I guess I'll have to find out now! Don't I have two unfinished basses and a truss rod replacement waiting to get done already?!
  15. Yeah John, that MM puts out a sound all it's own! I have one on the drawing board (after I finish the 2 in progress) that has 2 HB's. My Grind is set up that way but not with the MM style HB's, it's got soapbars. The Grind has more of a jazzy pop & snap to it. The MM's have a lower more mellow sound to them. I have a local source for the MM HB's for under $20. I don't see them on the website but if you call them you can order them over the phone. In fact they'll sell you two of them for $37 or $38! Not a bad deal. They deal in a lot of closeout stuff and have bargains on most everything in stock. (they only have "Lace" guitar PU's for you guitar guys and I don't know anything about Lace). You can get their 800 number from the link below. http://www.warpdrivemusic.com PS: I'm not affiliated with these guys I've just gotten great bargains and service from them and thought I'd pass it along. They have tons of Martin and Gibson stuff in stock too. "Local" to me is within 75 miles because I live in the boonies and everything is 50+ miles away!!
  16. At the moment I'm not parting any out because they are all in excellent shape. I should be getting a shipment in later this week or early next week that may contain some parts bodies. I'll have more info on this when I talk to my supplier tomorrow. ebay is pretty good for parts but watch your shipping costs. It's better to buy from one source and have them combine shipping. There are several decent parts suppliers on ebay that have most everything for basses. Also check your local shops for pricing first. I have seen Fender string trees on ebay that sell for $7.99 + $3 shipping when my local guy carries them for $4.50!
  17. I would be interested in the results especially in the poly/U. Sounds like a great approach. Personally, I have had great luck with Deft. No runs, no sags, no clogged nozzles and a nice spray pattern. Oh, and NO sanding in between - my favorite part. I hate sanding which makes me wonder why I am so addicted to building guitars. The deft also dries quickly between coats (if you spray sensibly) which makes for quicker finshing times. The only thing I don't like, and this goes for all lacquers I'm aware of, is curing time. You can handle it after about a day but I've found finger prints in mine during cooler weather. I starting wearing light cotton gloves when handling my projects to prevent this. I also let them "cure out" before I place hardware on them ("cure out" means I wait until the "smell" is almost gone).
  18. You weren't kidding Danny - that wood is gorgeous!!!
  19. Drill bits are also sized by number (and letters) to keep us even more confused. I got tired of converting all the time and finally went out and bought a set of bits that included fractional, metric, number and letter bits. It only cost me about $75 at the time and I think they're even less now. There's some 200+ bits in it and it keeps me from going crazy trying to find the "conversion" size. Happy Drilling!
  20. Someone else here may have a better idea, but I personally would use only a hardwood. Mahogany is relatively inexpensive (especially when compared to koa) and readily available. Try your local lumberyard.
  21. ??? good question...... I always thought they were one and the same just different spelling. But hey, I'm no lumberjack
  22. Yes, a sweep pot will act like a switch without having a toggle switch. Center will put the J and P pu's in evenly, sweeping one way will put J in more until you hit the end then only the J will be in. The opposite direction will work the P in until it's in the circuit all by itself. See this site for wiring diagrams: http://www.guitarelectronics.com/diagrams/.../oem/jbass.html That will get you a single tone with a sweep and a volume. You just substitute a P pu for the neck. My Grind is set up with the 4 pot's like I described above. Drop me an email if you want that wiring because I can't find it on the web. Steve
  23. Great Stuff! Good luck on the project!! I can never make up my mind on pickups. One day I like the mellow tone of the P and the next I like the pop of the J and somewhere in between I like my Hum's and then there's active...... I played a Yamaha 775 the other day with the Nathan East EQ and I can't get that sweet sound out of my head. (time for ANOTHER bass?!?!) Anyway, enough rambling.....I'd go P on the neck and J on the bridge with a tone control for each, a master volume and a sweep to play one or the other individually or mix them both. Another option on pot's is master tone, master volume and sweep. That will save you some room only using 3 pot's. I'd definitely do the sweep though, you're going to need/want it one day. No matter what you do it's going to be a beauty with that wood combo! My 2 cents....
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