Woodenspoke

I would think the ferrules is all you need using any wood. I dont see an issue where a properly set ferrule will pull through the guitar body?

As everyone else has said this is just wrong information, maybe you got mixed up is all.

No offense to the design or your belief that you are producing something innovative; you are just barking up the wrong tree here. Posting hype on this forum is like asking to be hit on. The fact that 1/2 the senior members here could dupe the design without blinking makes it less innovative in my opinion. If you had posted your design as an idea minus the TV Jones nonsense you may have gotten some legitimate feedback. We are builders for the most part you didnt expect us to jump on the band wagon did you?

It would be nice to know if the neck is a blank or already tapered. I would have suggested you cut the frets slots before you taper the neck as it makes it easy to position the template (no brainier). First you make sure one side of your neck blank is flat. Align the template on this edge and use this edge against the jig pin. You just find out where your nut will go as the current metal SM template has a double cut for a 25.5 " scale 1/8" nut. make sure you add any offset to where you locate the template for the nut (the difference of where the saw cuts to where the pin is).Then once you have your frets cut you have a 90 deg line to layout your neck. If you already tapered your neck you have to align the template down the center line on the back of the neck as copperhead said, again making sure the nut is where it should be. The skunk stripe is a goo indication of the centerline. If the fret slots are skewed a hair it will not matter as you can adjust this minuscule skew when you adjust the bridge intonation. You would have to be way off to screw it up. make sure you use lots of tape on this method. If you already rounded off your neck then I have no suggestion for using this jig as you eliminated the point at which you can attach the template. Pictures are always helpful

I think if you could match the pickguard to the color and make it slightly smaller than the pin striping on that side it would blend in better. A bit of a pain to do the selector switch cutout in wood. But as a small pickguard the answer is I dont like it.

Buffalo Horn gone- Sorry. IF you have anything to trade give me a shout as I have other items I can trade.

Nice to hear you like it. also is more slippery than bone. I will assume it will hold up as well as any man made nut. I have not tried horn on a guitar with trem so I dont know how that will hold up. Thanks for rthe feedback.

A thong may be a better choice. You don't want to gum up the works. LOL

Move your finishing operations somewhere else, LOL

Not an expert here but the wood should have been rough prior to you adding sealer. You can try sanding it down and see if you can flatten it without ruining the stain. Certianly do not add layers to fix the problem. many fine posts regarding stain on wood do a search.

Do you mean something like this, but in a different size? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/5x-0-5mm-Carbide-Mil...1|293:1|294:200 I'm a little confused now... I thought a down-cut bit would be preferable for inlay because you're seeking to create perfect crisp lines to fit the inlay piece. An up-cut bit would leave slightly less crisp lines due to the cutting action, no? Also, couldn't you just use a vacuum system attached to the dremel router base to get the chips/dust out of the way while using a down-cut bit? Correct on the bits. You can use any bit down or up doesn't matter. I have not found much of a difference if the bit is sharp. Buy what's cheapest.

I never solder on the ground wire. The screw and pressure of the bridge keeps the wire in contact. Bass bridge I am talking about. Soldering it could discolor the bridge due to the heat necessary to melt the solder.

Its not the .021 vs .023 in one slot its the accumlated effect of 22 frets being forced in. Most people have a range of kerf sizes just in case. I have several fret saws and use my table saw for the initial slots. Sometimes they are loose some times thay are tight. So yes it does depend on the wood and how accurate you can saw.

When I figure out how to take a good picture I let you know. LOL How does it sound?

You should be able to polish that up to a laquer like shine. Looks a bit dull in the pictures. Glad it worked out for you.

Also if you want cheap down cut bits look for a metalworking store and order a milling bit in the same size. Same thing only 1/3rd the price.

The guitar is looking good. Yes weird files. The round file I have never seen before the large one looks almost like an autobody file or possibly a horse shoe file used to flatten the hoof prior to installing a new shoe. Hey as long at it works.

If your open string and 12th fret is spot on, neither sharp or flat then the guitar is intonated properly. Weird. recheck the string height using a spare string as a gage. Buy a capo and check fret heights at different positions. Remove all excess material above half the strings height on the nut (where the string sits). Make sure the string angles back from the front edge of the nut or isn't sitting on a hump. If the fret positions are correct then it is most likely a problem with the nut you made. Pictures of the guitar and the nut would be helpful.

I really sounds like you want the sound, not a complete guitar. Looks like a custom fingerboard on a standard Gibson and the older standard SG with the round pick guard over the electronics. Buying the guitar (used) and finding someone who is good at electronics would save you thousands. Also the new 24 fret SGs will get you that 23rd fret but I dont know why that would be important. The other is the mix of different neck inlay which could be added to any standard dot neck as would the binding. Now I am assuming that the video you show is the actual guitar. Finding the electronics specs is more important that anything on the guitar, heck it can be added to an epiphone SG and again save you some big bucks.

For durability its not high up on the list.

No Its not like plexi and will cut just fine You can also cut straight and use a scaraper or a razor blade as a scraper to angle the edge. It easier just to buy the proper bit. Straight of course

Lets go back. You intonated the open string to the 12 fret right?

Yes it will make a difference. And yes its worth fixing considering the fret crown will cover the mistake. Buy a templates??

Certianly looks less like a build that a mod of a standard SG.

I swear I saw sawdust in one of those pictures, LOL Looking good.