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Slaughthammer

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Everything posted by Slaughthammer

  1. i'd say leave it as it is now, even if ther is a space between the neck-PU and the fretboard, who cares? i think it looks pretty damn good now.... just do an oil-finish or a clear coat finish, and have a killer-guitar
  2. i'd also go with s-s-h if you want a versatile (spelling?) guitar. i'd recommend to use standart strat singels and a Seymour Duncan SH-6 Distortion-Humbucker, it is a good hi-gainer for distorted sounds, and with a push/pull-pot or a mini-swich you can swich it to a singlecoil-sound, and than it sounds like an standart USA stratpickup. that is what i have and it is really great sounding.... i can do anything from jazz over blues to rock and metal and death metal (wich i do mostly) it is a fantastic pickup-combination
  3. what about laminating a 3-piece neck from two strips of bubinga and one strip of purpleheart? that should give a really strong neck.... but woult it sound good? i think you would have to use some very bassy wood for the body then, to get a decent tone.
  4. i had the locking nut problem when i converted my strat to a flod-style kahler trem. i had a roller nut on it before, so the locking nut fitted in that place. but the action would've been 1mm to high, and i couldn't take off some wood beyon the nut because there is truss rod. i just made the nut 1mm smaller. it was a pain in the ass, because the steel it's made from is hardened, but now it works fine, i stay in tune perfectly. in fact all i want to say is, that a locking nut will work even with a pretty thin fingerboard sorry for my bad english
  5. wow.... i'd like to see a photo of THAT!!!!!!
  6. what wood are you using for the neck? 1/8" with mahagoni might get you in trouble...
  7. thats what i did on my strat, when i converted ist to a kahler, works good, but the uppitch is not very much, just about a halftone... actually better than none
  8. http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...151&hl=compound this is the topic, vankirk spoke of...
  9. You're talking rubbish I'm afraid. The power supply CAN supply 600mA, it doesn't push 600 all the time. that's it... the pedal will only pull for about 20 mA out of it, so it is a little overkill...
  10. use it. that's what i'm doing with my boss mt-2... works fine.... except for the 50Hz in the background.... otherwise use a V-cable with the boss adaptor
  11. go to http://www.fullservesite.com/cgi-bin/easyhost.cgi sign up upload pics get url of the pics (don't forget to take the "/members/" out of the url) post the urls or post the pics (posting pics means you press the "IMG" button and insert the url of the pic in the popup-window and hint OK)
  12. i play in a true/power metal band that formed last summer... got no webpage, no name.... i'll suggest brainchild, if wes has no problem with it. but its a nice band. some death metal (CoB, In Flames) influences, sounds really interessting. i play guitar (lead guitar, of course) i do some vocals. our second guitarist also does some vocals, but our drummer sucks... have to find a better one...
  13. i read this on myka guitars homepage. i was curious if a titan truss rod wouldn't be a good solution if you have to look extremly at the weight of your guitar. i somewhere read that something like this exists... just curious...
  14. [QUOTE=Custom_Curtis @ Apr 14 2004, 08:32 PM] found this on the web [url=http://www.hamerguitars.com/?fa=series&sid=197]12 string bass[/url] by the way, LGM, in my guitar magazine, they have your slogan, turning dreams into reality, maybe wanna contact them? PM me for more info Curtis[/QUOTE] [QUOTE=Custom_Curtis @ Apr 14 2004, 08:32 PM] by the way, LGM, in my guitar magazine, they have your slogan, turning dreams into reality, maybe wanna contact them? PM me for more info[/QUOTE] nothing easier than that.....
  15. i think tunig it is a real pain in the ass......
  16. if you want to remove the water out of chemical bond from wood, all that you will get is a piece of coal.... but Calcium chloride might work, but i thing, a kiln works better..
  17. i think thats just because it's easier to route parallel to the sides befor sawing the neck out... and i dont think that angeling them would affect anything at all
  18. no and no a well done bond will not be a weak point in the wood... and you can sand/plane it smooth, so you can hardly see where they are attached togeher before it's finished, so if you won't do a see-thru finnish, you will never ever guess that it is not one piece just by seeing it
  19. as for me, i much agree with GM, but my heroes are the neo-classical shredders like yngwie malmsteen and paul gilbert. maybe that's because i like classical music a lot, especially the baroque stuff....
  20. i began playing arcoustic guitar when i was 11, but it got serious when i was 13. when i was 14 i got my first electric. now i'm 17 and i have taken lessons for a year now (before i taught myself[or at least i tried to]) and now i'm on the best way to become a good shredder, well many practice left for me.... agreed...
  21. if you want some real high-end stuff, i'd recommend an ENGL preamp. they are very expensive, but i think the money is well spent....
  22. i have no clue about he radius, but something in my mind tells me, that it might be the half width of a coil, that would mean a quarter of the whole PU width.... just my .02€
  23. probably he uses nylon strings, but the 3 bass-strings are usually nickel-wound but the core is nylon very nice guitar, and nice sounding.... i'm thinking about making someting like that too...
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