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Rick500

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Everything posted by Rick500

  1. Rick500
    Was going to suggest what ToneMonkey did. The analogy of water through hoses will help you understand electronic components if you haven't much experience with them. For instance: a resistor is like pinching the hose a certain amount.
  2. Rick500
    Just in case there is any lingering confusion, LMI is still good, so don't hesitate to order from them.
  3. Rick500
    For doublestick tape... I like 3M poster tape rather than the foam kind.
  4. Rick500
    A spokeshave, Stew-Mac Dragon rasps, and sandpaper. I like to cut a belt from my belt sander in two or three pieces, put a little duct tape on each end for a "handle" and use it to to smooth the neck after some work with the rasps and spokeshave. Belt sander belts have a much thicker substrate than sheets of sandpaper, and last a lot longer when you use them like this.
  5. Rick500
    I stick the magnets on to the cavity cover with super glue. Epoxy might even be better.
  6. Rick500
    Yeah, I have a couple of the Carvin kits. Top-notch. More than $300 though.
  7. Rick500
    When I started building, I used Stew-Mac's Hot Rods. Now I'm using Allied's two-way truss rods. I prefer them because they're a bit shallower.
  8. Rick500
    Koa? Black limba?
  9. Rick500
    I haven't seen the LMI version, but I bought a half dozen of Allied's and like them better than the Hot Rods I used to use.
  10. Rick500
    Trying to have it done by the end of the year. I only really can work on it on weekends though. Here's the final application of Tru-oil drying. Next up is to glue the neck in. Speaking of which, I decided to oil the body, then glue in the neck, then oil the neck. In what order do you guys put those steps? I figured it'd be easiest to keep oil off the surfaces to be glued this way.
  11. Rick500
    I've successfully drilled clean output jack holes with sharp brad point bits, but a Forstner is the better way to go.
  12. Rick500
    I have one bit from them; I've used it a couple times and it's fine so far. I still prefer Whiteside to everything else. I'll let you guys know how functional the pin router setup is.
  13. Rick500
    I just ordered an MLCS pin router kit. Wondering if anyone else has tried it...? Seemed like a really good deal. http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc...e/ec081029.html
  14. Rick500
    Best of luck... you build some great-looking stuff.
  15. Rick500
    heh... you should put a "Tested by Swedes!" seal on your website.
  16. Rick500
    Just ordered one o' these... I think a Bigsby can look good on almost anything. (Yeah, I know, I should be building more and buying less, but I have a thing for Carvin.)
  17. Rick500
    I think it looks better with the LP neck.
  18. Rick500
    Hi GuitarStoolMaker... welcome to the forum. I visited your website and really liked the table as well. That'd be awesome in spalted maple!
  19. Rick500
    +1 on the Ridgid OSS for a sander.
  20. Rick500
    I don't even want to think about how much I've spent. Mind you, it wasn't necessary to spend a ton, but I like machines.
  21. Rick500
    Use a test piece, but try another application of stain. That should darken it, unless the stain itself isn't as dark as you wanted.
  22. Rick500
    I have several Ridgid tools. Never a problem with any of them. (Shopvac, planer, oscillating spindle sander.)
  23. Rick500
    Happened to me the first time I built a mahogany body. Fortunately it was less than 1/4" of tearout, so I just recut the outline of the body and made it a little shorter.
  24. Rick500
    +1 on the Fretboard Logic recommendation. Great books.
  25. Rick500
    You can do it a number of ways... sawdust and glue; tinted epoxy; take a sliver of similar colored wood, sharpen it in a pencil sharpener, put some glue on the tip and push it into the hole.
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