levelhead86

Why do I feel like trying to aid any further is a waste of time? Oh yeah, because the guitar was a total F-up, and he didn't learn anything from it; and after he got advice from some people who know what they're doing *trying to save it*, he decided to disregard it.

That would be one AMAZING save... I may use that shape myself.

Looks yummy. Any closeups of the neck and/or headstock?

I had a "puking" .gif that I posted in this space originally, which is apparently no longer showing up... But in anycase, that body looks horrible. You seriously need to take a step back and reflect on what you did, because it's beyond bad. Buy a book or read this website over a little bit more and plan your next project a little more carefully, because as far as I'm concerned, that thing is dead in the water.

Co-sign. Also, the top-right cut looks a little too dinky.

It may a little early but just an idea:

That body looks ENORMOUS! I honestly can't think straight looking at it; but it's a cool shape *I pinch on the overkill side but...* I personally dig Duncan JB/59 pickups, and EMG HZ/H4's *and they're "cheap"* You know, I think Doeringer is a user on here... I haven't dealt with them but the work looks damn clean especially for the price. They sell neck blanks too though, if you'd prefer that, cause they're a ton cheaper.

Why do I find that very hard to believe...?

I have an FCB 1010 myself, with the UnO firmware, and I've been using the MDI program somebody else posted. The sky is the limit for the programming options, but you just need to figure out how to get to it. I suggest checking out the yahoo! groups for the FCB; as well as the V-AMP because those guys have worked out every detail possible.

Somebody wrote in *I don't have the patience to go check for it right now* that a quart will clear 4-5 guitars... and you're saying that it'll take 5 cans of spray to do one guitar... so apparently 5 full cans of spray are the equivalent of a quarter of a quart *I dunno how many ounces that is, off the top of my head*? That didn't add up right to me.

Wes, you make a lotta valid points, but to a "beginner" *implying, not having done it before* sinking any significant amount of money into equipment before they start seeing results may not be the most desirable approach. I ask you... when you first started, did you mechanically go through and buy various pieces of equipment first, or did you jump into it? I understand if we're trying to discuss the most "well thought" approach, but I know my first paint job was pretty shitty, but so was the guitar so it was no loss, and I learned a lot from the experience. All the talk and advice is great, but there's no substitute for experience, and by trying the "cheaper " *even though, your breakdown implies it's not; which I disagree with* approach, the painter can draw their own conclusions on whether they a satisfied with the results or not. According to Southpa, he's decided that the rattler finishes were reasonable for him, and though they weren't to you, that doesn't mean it's not for this guy. Sorry if I railroaded this discussion at all, but I think we should be looking at THIS PARTICULAR thread/discussion as "what a reasonable method/type/brand of rattler finish, than can deliver descent results FOR A BEGINNER" and we can use the extra "advice" as just that... "advice."

You're the only person I know on here so far, that's given it this "reputation." Among people I know, it's considered a great pedal, so I guess we're rolling with two different packs.

I guess it was starting to sound like an argument of "inferior for cheap" versus "superior for $$$" finishes, and so in bringing up auto clear I didn't want to discuss using cheaper stuff *like nason* unless it came to that because I've already had that argument. But, after reading everything, I think we're all speaking the same language. I'm much more partial to the "sher-wood water white conversion varnish" idea, simply because I'm not cool with spending the $100+ on a gallon or $50+ on a quart of the other stuff plus reducer and thinner; especially cause if something goes wacky and my supply goes bad, I'd much rather lose the $35 gallon, then the latter. Maybe later on though.

I agree with all of this, 100%.

The Dupont clear at the local shop is $185 a gallon. I'll spend that on my '68 'stang, but I'm not going to spend that on clearing a couple guitars. EDIT: BTW, there's a Sherwin Williams store in the city where I work; so after seeing your posts *WES*; I'm guessing I can get something from there?

Oh, also the Digitech GSP2101 artist *David Shankle used* and 2120 artist are some pretty goddamn ballsy and diverse units if you'relooking for a tubed preamp and multi-effect unit *though I've been too cheap to buy one in the last couple years since I discovered them* .

On cheap, the "Crate Stealth" is a great amp *albeit "vintage"* ... as it's an all tube, Lee Jackson designed amp. So, it's got a very similar sound to those Ampeg VL, and Metaltronix series amps *hot rodded Marshall.... skull smashing gain*. I invested in it after hearing Alexi Laiho's live sound *who used a Metaltronix head, and now uses a Lee Jackson preamp, into a VHT Fifty/Two/Fifty* and I'm very satisfied. The one downfall is this one has no "standby"; which kinda pisses me off but it's worth getting modded. Here some clip of a guy on YouTube using it with the stock distortion: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rKvuAoH6ob0 . Effects wise, I purchased a Boss GX-700 lately which is another gem. It has REAL analog distortion sound *it's analog wired*, and "Metal Zone" that is totally true to the actual pedal *I used to have one*. The rest of the effects in it hold up really well and can be programmed 1,000,000 different ways for different sounds and different players. I used to be a Boss pedal freak, but this setup has all the sounds I can use of so far and is easy to use (along with my UnO modded FCB1010) making it a very simple, roadworthy rig. I've tried and owned a lotta equipment, good & bad, and my rig I described is where I ended up. Just figured I'd enter that into the discussion.

I have sprayers and an air compressor *I do automotive work as a hobby* My biggest goal here, is to have a clear coat which I can buy in one of the major stores *Wal-Mart, Home-Depot, Lowe's, etc.* that'll be a high quality finish. I don't like buying from specialty stores online *like stew.mac.; cause the shipping and the markup is outrageous in my opinion, plus I'm impatient when it comes to waiting for things paid for* and there's not exactly a cache of luthier supply stores in central New York. So... what options are open?

What about the spray polyurethane *minwax* that so many people herald in this forum?

Ouch... that sounded like a dig. Anyway, I know you can only get a "single look" out of it, but the rustoleum "hammered" paints go on well, cure quickly, look awesome, and are WAAAAAAAAY durable. I'd imagine of they can pull it off in that, then there's prolly other sprays *clears included* out there with just as much balls.

Yeah.... if you have the stuff, then it's worth painting the guitar 'right.' But when I was younger, and had no money, I spray painted a few guitars and they worked and sounded fine for me. I did them in flat black,and by not using 5,000,000 coats of clear on it, it still sounded pretty good and cured in a reasonable time frame; while holding up to some abuse. If you have the money, fine, buy the equipment or pay someone else to paint it. But if not, then don't be afraid to throw down something simple in the meantime, and learn from it, while you save for the better equipment. My $0.02.

Neither ... There are far too many disadvantages to using spraypaint. 1) It will take up to a year for the paint to fully cure. The more paint you use (multi-color paintjobs, stripes, camo, ect...) the longer it will take. 2) Even then, the paint is not durable enough to use for guitars. The paint is soft and leaves "impressions" from things like putting the guitar in a case, resting it on the carpet, lay it on a towel, and even from your clothing (especially jeans if you rest it on your lap while you play it). 3) The rubber from guitar stands will eat right through the finish. 4) It's very suseptable to chemical reactions that cause wrinkles and/or cracks in the finish. Yeah, spraypaint is cheap but just remember you get what you pay for. This sounds like the effects of spray paint taken to a WAAAAYYY extreme. I've seen higher quality spray paint work ALMOST as well as the kind you use from the gun...

Even if they needed the room, they could've centered them in relation to the TOM. Anyway, I'm with biliousfrog... don't duplicate what they did in the factory, because it makes no sense *so far*, and looks like a crappy mistake.

I'm new to writing this forum, and to building, but not to playing; and not to reading stuff on this site. I've learned a lot from watching this forum, both in what to do, and what NOT to do. There's a tone and a way of addressing someone that's constructive, and then there's a tone that's NOTHING but demeening. I'm just starting out building, but I'm sure as hell not going to post anything on here, even if it was four star work; because if I say something wrong I may be flamed to no end, and that's just not helpful to anybody but the 'flamers' ego. In the meantime, Wes is totally right, we really should shift gears back into the build, and focus on a follow-up build; address what went wrong in this one, correcting it next time.