ToddW

Unless there's something wrong with it or you just don't like it, the only downside I can see to the 15" saw is that you will probably have to order your blades. With 15" wheels, it may not be a very common blade length. But I always order stuff like that online anyway, so for me, if it's a nice saw, it'd be a no-brainer.

Easy there SJE Erik wasn't acusing you of anything. You said carbide coated, not carbide tipped. There's a difference. If the cutting blades are Carbide, then they are similar to what stu mac sells. If they're just coated, then they aren't. Can you clarify if this is just a question on semantics?

You could just go with SuperSoft II. http://www.veneersupplies.com/product_info...products_id=616

and I think this guy will care if that Orca doesn't like his playing http://www.uiah.fi/virtu/measure/wp-conten...r-with-orca.jpg But this guy CLEARLY cares the most! http://www.instablogsimages.com/images/200..._uZKyy_5965.jpg Do you think he's one of the Borrowers?

I tend to agree with you Dave. But these guys care: http://wearcam.org/icmc2007/immersed_conce..._imgp8076pq.jpg And more importantly, she: http://pro.corbis.com/images/42-16181089.j...6E8165A41A32%7D might too

Well, Elmer's white glue is made to disolve fast so you can wash it off the pre-schoolers who get it all over themselves. Carpenter's glue is different. Still, you won't believe it until you try it, so try it. Glue a couple of 4x4" scraps of hardwood together, let it dry a week or so, and then put them in a bucket of water. As to titebond III suffering from creep, I haven't seen it, and while I have seen a lot of people claim it creeps, none of them seem to have any experience with it doing so. I do know people who have seen it with TBII. TBI is an aliphatic resin, I think TBII dark might be as well. TBII AND III are PVA's. In theory, they'll all creep some under stress, and while aliphatic resins may creep a touch less in theory, III is very tough stuff. I'd guess the reason people say it creeps is because it's a PVA. Of course, so is that Elmers you saw recommended . . . Regards, Todd

Agreed. The real benefit of larger wheels is momentum and it's easier on the blade. But unless you're planning to do a lot of resawing with a wide carbide tipped blade, I don't know if going with the 17" is worth it to you. I think you'll be very happy with either of those saws.

I think it only has 10" resaw capacity, which isn't bad, but it's not 12". I have only needed more than 10" once, basically now, but the board is 12.75 x 16.5 x 2.75, so 12" still wouldn't be enough. I wouldn't overestimate the value of a resaw fence. I have an OK fence on my saw with your typical drift adjustment and also a pivot point attachment and I never use it. I would rather clamp a heavy board to the table that's about as tall as what I'm resawing. Can't remember where I "saw" the tip on doing that, but I like it better than the fence. Oh, and Grizzly isn't made in the US! Definately China. Like all the other low and mid priced bandsaws from Jet, Delta, Rikon, Steel City . . . In fact they probably all come from the same factory But Grizzly is reputable, so I'd be comfortable buying that saw. Regards, Todd

You won't find a better value in bandsaws than Grizzly unless you get something on craigslist. If you can spring for the next model up, I would. The cast iron wheels will have more momentum, and it's "only" $131 more because there's free S&H on that model right now. http://www.grizzly.com/products/17-Bandsaw...runnion/G0513X2

An ideal way to lose a finger, gunk up a blade and not get a result And you won't get a very nice edge even if you do it safely. Ive put a roll of masking tape between two boards to hold it without my finger's getting cut, and cut it with a utility knife. I don't recommend that technique, but you can cut through 5 or 6 layers pretty easily. Personally, I'd call up a local custom auto painter and ask them where they buy theirs. And of course there's always e-bay, which probalby won't save you anything over CoastAirbrush on price, but might save you a buck or two on S&H.

I used the 15" gotoh type from Grizzly. Seems like a good fit, but I used a body end adjustment. Not sure if that makes a difference.

Hey Dave, Those were worth watching. Thanks for posting the links.

Diet is less sticky when my kids spill it in the car and is better for their teeth

So I broke 5 blades last night, and decided to order a gross more. I broke 2 just putting them in the saw and tightening the screws to hold it. So I did some research and thought it might be worth posting what I found out. Seems the Swiss Platinum blades I got are super hard temper blades. The site I learned it on said Herkule blades are also hard temper blades. Pike blades are supposed to be a softer temper and easier to use without breaking. So I ordered a gross of the Pike blades in 2/0 and size 4 for $14+$2s&h each. E-bay seller with lots of the pike blades. It was about $10 less per gross than anyplace else I found and $2 for S&H was great. Oh, and I got the size 4 blades to cut strait lines on letters I'm cutting out. SO it seems the recommendations on Pike are good ones because they're harder to break, and brands are different. Regards, Todd

Earvana LOL

what kind of pickups? what amp? what scale length? what gauge strings . . . Sorry, but while I agree the woods are bright, if you're using a short scale and HBs, it may not be that bright.

WOW! Love that last one. What's the top? Todd

You implied SJE was lying because you seemed to think his test couldn't have worked. But like I said, with a good joint, elmers would hold 2 days in standing water. Boat builders do these tests all the time because for them it's important. Even the interior of a boat can get soaked during a storm or if the boat rolls, so if titebond I wouldn't hold in that case, they wouldn't let it near a boat. Check page 96 in this boatbuilding manual, it seems that elmers carpenter's glue and titebond I took a couple of weeks to fail in a submersion test. I don't consider that waterproof. Maybe SJE does, but I don't think so, I think he's just saying it not being water proof isn't an issue, because it's water proof enough for building a guitar. I don't think he was debating the commercial definition of if would pass as a waterproof glue, which seems to be what you imply calling it a straw man. http://books.google.com/books?id=_XN7BYrCu...1&ct=result You'll find tests like this in boat magazines or on the wood boat forum pretty often, and it appears plain old non-waterproof aliphatic glues hold weeks . . . not days . . . when submerged. I'm glad you call it as you see it, Wes. I'll do the same, OK? - Topic Crusader Todd, over and out . . . Matt, I had no luck gorilla glue holding on some chairs I needed to repair after we moved. There were poorly fitting splintered surfaces. Only tried a couple of times before I gave up on the poly. 2 part epoxy worked for me perfectly. Pretty sure your neck joint will be better fit than those split rails, but either way, epoxy is worth considering when you really need to fill gaps. Regards, Todd

ummm, if he's a rock star, he can buy another guitar at that point, which is better for your business Or you can plane off the fingerboard, or put on a new neck. There's always a way . . .

Hey Wes, I agree, it's anecdotal and not a good example, but before you start implying dishonesty, you might want to think about it a bit more. Yes, I'd call it a silly experiment, but wouldn't doubt the results. Standing water can take a lot longer than 2 days to penetrate a well crafted joint on a dense or oily wood. In that situation, I doubt standing water would have softened the glue more than a few mm into the joint. Now, if SJE had left the pieces out in the rain for a week, the moving water and expansion/contraction from temperature changes would probably cause the joint to fail faster. SO SJE's test isn't very valid for someone building outdoor furniture or boats, but it does show that you wouldn't have to worry about problems with minor water exposure like raising the grain or using a water based dye. Best regards, Todd

If you're planning to build one, these might be useful. http://www.mykaguitars.com/tools/carver/default.htm http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/CTGY/LM?g...CFQFrGgod2j74eg http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/LM/Kit7956

Honest Wez, he mixed up purple and black? How did he react when you told him?

I actually like Titebond III. I've never used it, but I would stay way from II since I don't see any advantage to it and some people I know have said they experienced joint line glue creep. Titebond I is good, and I suspect the Elmers wood glue is also fine since I've never had any issues with it, but I used titebond III the most. For a guitar I don't think III is better than the regular titebond, but I don't want to have too many bottles around getting old, and the waterproof part never bothers me. +1 on Melvin's book. Best, Todd

Metz, you don't give yourself enough credit. It's nice work. I just like more contrast. If you'd gone with a dif pickguard color it probably would have appealed to me more, of course it also would have been a touch more generic, so . . .

http://bham.craigslist.org/tls/999907500.html ? ? I find my bandsaw so useful, I'd hold off for one one CL. You can often talk someone down on price too. Best, Todd