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rhoads56

Duplicarver

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stop talking about it and make one to prove Greg wrong

Absolutely. Not a person on this forum would mind being proven wrong here. I'm sure lots of people would see ~$700 as a small investment for a 3D medium-duty CNC capable of doing guitar bodies and necks. :D I wouldn't mind being proven wrong at all.

Greg

Unfortunatley I dont have the investment $$ at the moment, Because I bought a Roland stika vinyl decal cutter, Maybe come the first of the year........... I am a member of several jobshop type forums, My first projects of that type are converting my mini mill and lathe to cnc (about 450.00 for both)... one thing I didnt consider is most people here dont have acess to a mill , lathe, and welders, where I would be making parts they would have to buy them, I would be able to buy a 96" ball screw and cut my peices out of it instead of buying 3 seperate smaller ones with milled ends, make my own motor mounts, connectors, blocks, etc.... Mine also would not be 4 ft. like his duplicarver, maybe 40X18X5 inchs of travel. I have found 276 oz stepper motors for 35 bucks each,3 axis controllers for 149, Maybe find it on ebay a little cheaper. The rail system dosent have to be as nice as his, the ball screws will prevent play in the system if done correctly.

Just need it sturdy and free moving. I Will draw up the plans, get parts prices Send them to whoever wants them...... Most people want to sell there plans, I'm NOT like that. It will take a little while (a couple of weeks) but hey were here to help each other out!

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Word. I know I personally wouldn't have the resources to build one, either, but I'm sure that there are other people on here who would love to get plans for an inexpensive CNC.

Greg

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...the travel along the rails is a little sticky, probably some of that residual grease they coat the rods with for shipping.  Do you guys use anything special to lube the rails?

Duplicarver.jpg

It looks to me like you don't have enough separation between the rail bearings. The closer they are together, the more easily racking and binding will occur. The farther apart they are the smoother they will run under load.

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Yes, but then you lose travel, or have to have longer rods. Ours was very similar with Thompson linear bearings, and we used a large steel plate to connect them. It's possible that your small steel strip that only connects one side is allowing some movement, or perhaps you're not perfectly straight between the two. I don't like the way you're using the bar clamp as the bearing connection on the outside. I think you can have some rotation there. Also, I'd avoid using wood as any go-between bearings. No matter how thick or laminated, it is still not as stable as steel.

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Found this thread during some searching and figured I'd add these links:

http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/LM/Kit7956

http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/LM/Kit7429

Those were the lowest prices I could find and seemed to be less $$ than what others spent. Can't speak to the quality yet. Will try to remember to update this when I get around the this project.

-Todd

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I ordered that set of bearings/rod from VBX. The bearings appear to be quality although I haven't implemented them yet. I have all the parts to build a duplicarver just haven't gotten around to it.

I have a DIY standup buffer in the works now.

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Hey, nice to hear some positive feedback. Did you go with the rod set, or the pricier track set?

Todd

I got the rod set but wished I had ordered the track set. The rod will deflect and that has me back to the drawing board on my design. The bearings are good and my new design uses a support under the rod at exactly the half way point which should minimize the deflection to an acceptable amount but still give me enough travel distance to accommodate a body.

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