Norris Posted May 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2016 (edited) Probably quite mundane for you people, but last night I did my first rough neck carve. Probably the most satisfying couple of hours spent on the build since I made my first template. I see what you mean about it being the favourite part of the build for a lot of people. The usual method of rounding over at the top & bottom of the neck, then join them up. I used my shinto rasp - which was great for the job. I thought I might need a spokeshave, but the rasp did a great job. I also used a round surform. ... and I came very close to forgetting to draw in the centre line! I've only got just over 3mm of wood to the bottom of the truss rod channel - so that's very important! Edited November 7, 2017 by Norris 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 17, 2016 Report Share Posted May 17, 2016 It's anything *but* mundane....remember that a lot of people come to these threads to learn from what is shared. Carving a neck is always fun when everything starts to come together. You'll enjoy it more when it comes to the final hand-sanding and tuning stage. Reading the profile with your fingers is when it all becomes very very personal. I know that sounds weird, but hell. It is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted May 17, 2016 Report Share Posted May 17, 2016 What's the safest, minimum thickness between the bottom of the truss rod channel and the outside world? I can't imagine if I accidentally carve into the truss rod! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 17, 2016 Report Share Posted May 17, 2016 Depends on the rod, depends on the wood. I generally plan for at least 4mm of wood (3/16"?) if it's going close. Some woods are more prone to blowing out than others but it really shouldn't matter too much. If the rod is being used in the correct position for its type there should be plenty of room. The only rod I ever blew out was a StewMac Hot Rod, because they're just stupidly deep. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted May 17, 2016 Report Share Posted May 17, 2016 (edited) Thanks pros. My truss rod is pretty thin at 10mm so it should be fine. Luckily Norris stopped at 3mm! Edited May 17, 2016 by SIMpleONe89 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 17, 2016 Report Share Posted May 17, 2016 3mm is fine also. Depends on how confident you are working close to size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted May 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2016 I made certain that I transferred the truss rod channel depth at several points onto the sides of the neck before gluing on the fretboard. That meant that I had some indication when I thinned the back of the neck down, and could check I had enough material in there. It's as close as I'd want to go When thinning down the back of the neck my target was approx 21mm at first fret, 23mm at 12th. Actually I stopped about 0.5mm shy of that, when it was pretty flat, to allow for a bit of final sanding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 17, 2016 Report Share Posted May 17, 2016 Totally. When you can confidently measure "blind" and know for definite when you're either 3mm or 3,5mm from your rod channel, you're on the right track. Just takes a bit of planning and patience, but makes for a controllable and responsive neck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted May 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2016 An hour or so with a fine half-round file and it's starting to take shape. I like carving necks 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5itim Posted May 18, 2016 Report Share Posted May 18, 2016 On all of my neck I have used the stewmac lo pro and lmi which both have a depth of .375 and my fretboard thickness I always cut them to .25" thick, I always cut my necks to .780 1st fret thickness to .830 12th fret thickness, doing this I know that I will always have .150" of wood under the truss rod at the 1st fret and don't have to worry about doing math anymore, now I just simply measure real quick and cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 18, 2016 Report Share Posted May 18, 2016 I'm happy with how my self-made single acting rods have been turning out. I'm going to try a single reversible rod soon. That should be interesting.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5itim Posted May 18, 2016 Report Share Posted May 18, 2016 48 minutes ago, Prostheta said: I'm happy with how my self-made single acting rods have been turning out. I'm going to try a single reversible rod soon. That should be interesting.... With single action rods you have to do a curved channel, is this correct? That's mainly the reason I've went with dual action each time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 18, 2016 Report Share Posted May 18, 2016 They can actually be installed in straight channels, however they have very little acting force unless they are deformed by string tension bending the neck and inducing a curve. A pre-made curve adds in something for the compression to "act" upon. Curved isn't that difficult. It's just a different task. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted May 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2016 I've now moved on to my concave cabinet scraper - very nice to use Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 19, 2016 Report Share Posted May 19, 2016 Have you compared its use to a straight scraper? I've always preferred though to ones that have bit pointy evil corners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted May 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2016 2 hours ago, Prostheta said: Have you compared its use to a straight scraper? I've always preferred though to ones that have bit pointy evil corners. I've been using both the concave and flat scrapers. But yes, you have to watch out for the pointy corners on the concave one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5itim Posted May 19, 2016 Report Share Posted May 19, 2016 I agree, I believe the cabinet scrapers are my favorite tool that I've invested in. They are just a joy to use! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 19, 2016 Report Share Posted May 19, 2016 I've got to be careful of anything with a point or an edge on it. I dropped a big bit of plywood on my big toe yesterday and almost broke it. Hmm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 19, 2016 Report Share Posted May 19, 2016 Ever notice how the small bits never hit your feet? SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 19, 2016 Report Share Posted May 19, 2016 No, hence why the big ones are far more obvious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 19, 2016 Report Share Posted May 19, 2016 Obvious. That's a good way of putting it. I suppose it would be obvious almost simultaneously to the pain in your big toe, that a large chunk of plywood just landed on it. I never quite thought of it in those terms. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 19, 2016 Report Share Posted May 19, 2016 Yes, the exact first thought in my head was, "oh now that's pretty 'king obvious!". 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted May 31, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2016 (edited) It's spring & the garden has needed a bit of sorting (I banked a few "brownie" points with Mrs Norris!), so not a huge amount of progress on the guitar. This is partly due to having made the neck pocket template to match the instructor's router bit & guide bush... and then running out of time to cut it at the last session... and a public holiday this week so no classes. Anyway, the neck is coming on nicely. Down to 320 grit now and we're starting to get smooth. I'm quite pleased with the volute (is it called that on a Fender style neck?) transition - that's smoothed out nicely. The binding was a slight worry (next time I'll shape the neck AFTER fitting the bound board), but has turned out well - no gaps/glue lines, and I've not gone through it blending in the neck wood. Another hour or so at the 320 grit should have it silky smooth. Then I'd better start on some more router templates for bridge, pickups and rear control chamber. Edited November 7, 2017 by Norris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 31, 2016 Report Share Posted May 31, 2016 You might be able to call it a volute I guess. It depends on how you interpret what is and is not a volute. Still, it's all looking good, garden included. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 31, 2016 Report Share Posted May 31, 2016 Agreed....on both points. I love following the path wood grain follows around the shape changes in contoured pieces like your headstock and neck transition / volute. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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