meatloaf Posted January 5, 2018 Report Share Posted January 5, 2018 Guys I was just wondering if sycamore was any good for neck or bodies, I have a fair bit left over from a non guitar related project and would like to know if its worth keeping for a future guitar build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted January 5, 2018 Report Share Posted January 5, 2018 I would think it would be fine for both, subject to the condition of the lumber. I have seen it used in bodies to good effect, and I can picture some stunning necks with the typical ray pattern that sycamore exhibits. SR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 5, 2018 Report Share Posted January 5, 2018 Sycamore has many of the characteristics of Maples. As Scott says, if the wood is good in terms of cut, straightness of grain, etc. then it should be fine. Weightwise, I'd perhaps veer away from it being used in a body. Necks, tops, certainly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted January 6, 2018 Report Share Posted January 6, 2018 I used English Sycamore for the body of my Psilos bass below. The timber I was using was not overly heavy (no heavier than sapele, I would estimate) and nice to work. Very stable and similar to maple but softer. Probably not hard enough for a fretboard but great, in my case, for body and probably would have been OK for neck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 6, 2018 Report Share Posted January 6, 2018 Admittedly, its been a while since I've handled or used Sycamore. From what I recall, it was paler than a lot of Maples, a bit more prone to mineral streaks and "fuzzier" feeling. I agree about the softness being this side of most Maple's hardnesses. I'm not 100% sure if it is softer than all Maples, but in general it's a good description. @meatloaf - if you've got any photos of the stock, such as its grain orientation and clarity, fire away. What was the project? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted January 6, 2018 Report Share Posted January 6, 2018 2 hours ago, Prostheta said: Admittedly, its been a while since I've handled or used Sycamore. From what I recall, it was paler than a lot of Maples, a bit more prone to mineral streaks and "fuzzier" feeling. I agree about the softness being this side of most Maple's hardnesses. I'm not 100% sure if it is softer than all Maples, but in general it's a good description. @meatloaf - if you've got any photos of the stock, such as its grain orientation and clarity, fire away. What was the project? Yes - I'm sure you're right, @Prostheta. I'm comparing it with the maple neck wood on this build which was more into 'rock maple' hardness. And yes - I think maple tends towards the yellow and amber a touch more than the sycamore I was using, although this shot - treated with a couple of trial coats of Tru-oil - sort of belies that (sycamore wings and maple thru-fretboard): Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 6, 2018 Report Share Posted January 6, 2018 I'd even go as far as saying that Sycamore can have a green cast to it also in some instances. I bet that with liberal application of Oxalic acid, you could get super platinum blonde wood with Sycamore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 6, 2018 Report Share Posted January 6, 2018 Sycamore is good for all applications if it's sound. I've used flame Sycamore drop-tops in the past and frequently offered it as fretboard blanks. They were obtained from "tonewood suppliers" so pre-selected as instrument grade so I've never seen any defects or mineral streaks, but it is usually lighter in colour compared with Canadian or American Maple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 6, 2018 Report Share Posted January 6, 2018 It definitely needs appraising. The last Sycamore I used was so-so, but still an excellent piece to make a neck from. It's a better alternative to Maple than Birch is, anyway! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meatloaf Posted January 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2018 Thanks for your answers guys, here are a couple of pictures after a quick run through my planer. Prostheta I made a batch of 3d end grain cutting boards for Christmas presents for some of my family, unfortunately all my pictures are on my camera which is at my daughters, on a good day its a 2 1/2 hour drive to retrieve it and my last trip it was 5 1/2 hours of sheer misery so I'm not inclined to make a special trip for my camera. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 8, 2018 Report Share Posted January 8, 2018 I was more wondering what the project was to get an idea of what the cutoffs might be like, so no need to make a 5-hr round trip! The wood looks fine for the most part. There looks like a shadow of a nearby branch distorting the grain lines but in general it's nice and straight. It should be a nice piece for a neck. Not sure about those black marks. It might be possible to remove them with a bleach such as oxalic acid, however the rest of the wood will be lightened also. Not sure if they're an issue for you. Go for it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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