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Everything posted by Andyjr1515

  1. With the snakewood radiused, it was time to get the G&W mitre box out again: And, so much quicker and more accurate than before, I have my 25" fretboard ready for the next steps
  2. It was getting too confusing to cover both builds on one thread, so this thread will be just the build I'm doing for myself based on the the piccolo bass I built last year: I'm going to see if I can further develop the ultra slim, ultra light, curved back approach to produce a full-scale 6-string electric at near to or under 6lbs weight. Construction is going to be essentially the same as the bass, although I will be putting even more chambering in to offset, at least in part, the weight of the extra pickup and tuners. As a quick recap, this is the neck blank, with wood originally planned to be shared from a common blank with the Alembicesque build described on the other thread. The neck is maple/purpleheart/mahogany/purpleheart/maple: The back wings are mahogany, the top is Camphor Laurel and the fretboard is snakewood. This is with the top slightly dampened: Next job is cutting the notch in the neck blank for the top to slot into. For those who saw what I did in the other build, this slot is going to be in the right place....honest
  3. Little by little, this project is coming back on the scene. The major step forward yesterday was trying out the fretboard radius rig for real. I had made a small improvement to the rig to allow me to index and secure the rig in 1/4 router bit width steps for when I wanted to use it lengthways. Just a few holes and a cocktail stick: With everything sorted for a 'live' trial, I double-side taped the snakewood on some straight timbers of the correct height clamped to the rig I figured that the most likely to be successful would be routing lengthways and indexing with the above mod. Actually, for some reasons I understand and some I don't, doing it this way wasn't very successful. First of all, even though the supporting timber was planed and flat - nevertheless over this length there was a tiny bow at the centre. Easy fix - simply do the radiusing in two passes and add a top clamp near the centre of the fretboard. The other problem I'm not entirely sure about, although will check a couple of things. I didn't think to take a photo, but depending where the rig was in the radius, the cutter seemed to cut differently and caused an uneven cut along the length. So I tried the other way - cutting transverse around the radius and then traversing lengthways in 1/4 router bit width steps. Much more successful. However, and maybe here's the clue to the previous issues - see the dig-in line for each pass over 2/3rds of the radius, and particularly at the top: Easily sanded out, as you will see, but what I think is that the two radius templates aren't quite matched. So what is happening is that the rig is slightly tilting through part of the sweep, making one side of the router dig in. This would explain the iffy result going lengthways where this effect would be greatly exacerbated. If so, easily fixed In the meantime, after less than 15 mins of finish sanding with a 10" sanding block, the snakewood looked like this (and snakewood is very hard stuff): And it's straight and it's accurate. So - pre-rig: 2 - 3 days of sanding (in elapsed time due to the effort and boredom) Result - radiused; sometimes dipping at the ends; sometimes thinner one side than the other; sometimes sanding created twist; sometimes OK Post rig - even with some adjustments to make to stop the dig-in: 1/2 hour set up; 20 mins doing it; 15 mins finish sanding Result - radiused; flat; straight; even I think that's a result Learning experience (apart from the need to make the jig a bit more accurately!): Don't get carried away with the speed and ease and forget this is a router. And routers love pinging off edges of wood along the grain. If I'd remembered that, I would have slowed my travel speed right down and preventing this on the very last pass: Luckily, the lost edge is well within the width requirement...but might not have been Rookie error!
  4. Re-body of a Fender Rascal

    Another couple of coats of Osmo has given me this: The hatches will be darkened and the edges have got to be tidied up, but this is how the Osmo has gone with the Sapele: In terms of the headstock plate, I drilled the hole to match up with the position of the string tree and added the thin double-sided tape: To give me this: So, the whole body is starting to look like this: That headstock no longer looks out of proportion...and it remains fully reversible
  5. Hi One of the smaller jobs that has been backing up for a while is a request to build a Fender Precision Lyte shaped body for Mike's rather splendid Fender Rascal. Mike likes the sound and the pickup options and the neck, but can't get on with the body shape. So the idea is to do a reversible build of a Precision Lyte to fit everything onto. Oh....and to incorporate some of this: It's timber from the last tree (an English Walnut) that his late friend, Mervyn, cut down during his youth-to-retirement career as an axeman. What's more, Mike wrote a biography of Mervyn that was published a few years ago. Fascinating stuff... So that's where this one's starting from
  6. First Build - The "Nozcaster"

    It's a beauty, @Norris
  7. First Build - The "Nozcaster"

    B***ery! Well that's my chances shot, then!
  8. Top sanding - help

    Oooh - that's a good tip! I'll just go and borrow MrsAndyjr1515's and see how well it does
  9. Top sanding - help

    Hi, William Someone will come along, I'm sure, with other tips and techniques, but the same thing happened with my acoustic build. With that, I started with a stiff vacuum cleaner brush attachment to get as much dislodgeable dust out (remember it is dust and not stain). I then ran over the top gently along the grain with a soft copper brush (a suede leather brush) and then re-vacuumed. I then used a 'one grade coarser than finish sand but finer than rough sand' paper stuck to a small block and gently sanded all over up to, but not beyond, the binding, again followed by vacuuming. The thing to avoid is being tempted to sand more at a darker patch...you will quickly create a dip in the soft wood. Anyone else pitch in? Andy
  10. Re-body of a Fender Rascal

    No - sorry...should have explained. This is going to be fully reversible. I was dubious at first this would work but am pretty sure now it's going to work just fine. The plate is flat and stable (it's been sitting loose on the headstock for the past few weeks from an unusually mild spell, to heavy rain and high humidity to (for us) very cold and snow back to mild with no problems). The tuner bushes and string tree will hold the plate securely so the double-sided tape is just to make sure the edges don't lift. They can't go anywhere even if they do... I know - madness. But this is Andyjr1515...
  11. Re-body of a Fender Rascal

    The headstock plate is too thin to risk adding an inlay but Mike and I thought it would be fun to have at least a little bit of the original Rascal colour showing : Once the plate has been sanded to the exact outline and had the finish applied, it will be secured at the edges with thin double-sided tape just to stop it lifting at any of the edges. The tuner bushes and string tree will do the main work.
  12. OK - I'm going to bank on that everyone is far too busy with Christmas preparations to enter this so, being the only entry, I might win It's another go with my previous entry 'Impish Challenge' This is the 6-string electric, built for Tim (whose name tag on another forum is impmann and hence the name). Tim took ownership of it last week and he is, in his own words 'over the moon'. He loves it I am a hobby builder with my first full build around 5 years ago. More recently, I have started taking on bass and guitar commissions in addition to building for my own use and fellow band-members. After a series of bass builds, it has been nice to go back to a 6-string build. Tim's spec / my result (as usual with my builds, sometimes two different things) was: 25.5" scale, 6-string Style to have passing nod to Alembic's wonderful '80's six stringers Low weight, chambered (finished weight 6lb 12oz) Camphor Laurel top; Sapele back; Wenge demarcation veneer Maple/purpleheart/mahogany/purpleheart/maple neck; figured ebony fretboard Alegree Custom stacked P90's Schaller Hannes piezo bridge Schaller 'flagShip' piezo/magnetic mixer-preamp Magnetic control chamber and trussrod covers The build diary is here. Here are some pictures: And here are some (poorly played) sound clips: Magnetic only: mid; neck; bridge Piezo only Piezo / Magnetic mix: mid; neck; bridge Thanks for looking, folks Andy
  13. Re-body of a Fender Rascal

    This is almost complete. It also has given me a chance to try an A/B comparison of Tru-oil with the Osmo Polyx 3044 that some of you will remember I used for the 'white wood' Psilos bass. The 3044 version is intended for white and light woods and aims to minimise the yellowing effect of most finishes. It worked well for the Psilos: ...but how well would it work on a dark wood like walnut? Mike wanted me to try The great thing, however, is that - because I use a tru-oil slurry and buff now as a sealing and filling process before sanding it all off to then apply the intended finish coats, I could do an absolute A/B comparison of Tru-Oil vs Osmo Polyx 3044. And here it is: A/B Comparison of Tru-Oil vs Osmo Polyx 3044 In both cases, the body has has a single application of oil, slurried with 400 grit wet and dry and then immediately wiped off Tru Oil: Once fully dry. This was all sanded off, leaving the body in the same pre-oil state. Osmo Polyx 3044: Quite different - especially in the darker figuring areas where the tru-oil (and water does the same) turns the figuring grey to almost black. The Osmo, on the other hand, retains the light brown. The lighting is about the same in both shots. If it's a bright enough day tomorrow, I'll repeat the shot with the same background as the tru-oil - it actually shows the contrast even more. In real life it looks lovely. Also, once it's had a few more slurry and buff coats, the silky satin feel has to be experienced to be believed Here's the back with the Osmo - DON'T PANIC - THE DISTORTION IS THE CAMERA LENS (trust me - everything is straight and true! Honest ) The edges of the hatches still need tidying up but this is basically how they will look: The matching up of the sapele grain and the walnut grain, by the way, is total coincidence... And this is the 'fan who is getting too up close and personal' 's view: I really like this product. Super easy to apply and, well, it works!
  14. Stripy Double Cut With An F-Hole

    The blade on that knife is quite something, by the way. I saw a clip of how the layers of steel are built up on these types of blade - awe inspiring stuff....
  15. Stripy Double Cut With An F-Hole

    Nice work on the knife, Scott I like the plan for an unplated headstock - should look spectacular.
  16. You can use it lengthways or transverse, or both. I'm going to drill some index pin holes at 1/4 router diameter and actually use it lengthways, rotating the rig by one notch per pass.
  17. The ply templates have been marked out just using a ruler and flexi-curve an inch greater radius and the router bit positioned at an inch lower than the bearings line - so an 11" template is giving me a 10" radius on the fretboard. I will make a flat template so I can use the same rig to thickness the fretboard too
  18. Couple of enhancements to add, but essentially the radius jig is done: The melamine covered shelf I've used is slippery enough to be able to not worry about bearing runners for the lengthways movement. I tried it out on a bit of spare maple - Pretty good result for a first go:
  19. Having finished the Alembic-esque build, I'm heading back to the sister build, which will be for my own use. This is where I'd got to before I put it down to finish off Tim's : Other than the lack of the carve through arm relief forming the 'sucked lozenge' on Tim's, the woods are the same, so the overall look should be similar. This is the start of the convex/concave carve: There's a bit further to go but hopefully you get the idea. Now one thing I'm really, really bad at is spending the time to build jigs. BUT, I've come to the conclusion that life is too short for hand radiusing fretboards! So, I've cribbed a design from LedBelliBass on HomemadeTools.net and modded it a bit and here it is in progress: I'm undecided whether or not to put roller bearings on the lengthways slide or just use guide strips (the whole thing will be mounted on a flat, smooth box-plank. For indexing, I will use a simple peg and hole system. I'm hoping I can finish it tomorrow and so kick off re-commencement of this build later next week
  20. Build 2 - Dan's LP JR Double Cut

    I realise I'm a bit out of date with this. There are some very sound skills an techniques on view, @Norris I think the end product is going to be drool-some .
  21. Obol guitar build

    That's quite a design This will be a very interesting project to follow the progress. Can't wait
  22. Hi Now that the ultra-modern bass is complete, it's back to my first love...6-string electrics. And I'm building two of them! The first, is an Alembic-esque build for a long-standing member of one of the UK-based forums. It won't be a clone but will have a passing nod to the '80s look of the original Alembic 6-strings. The top will be a nice piece of bookmatched Camphor Laurel: It will have a fully chambered mahogany back - basically a semi acoustic without the 'f' holes. The 5-piece through neck (visible from the back only) has been laminated - maple / purpleheart / mahogany / purpleheart / maple: ...and turns out to be birdseye Tim, who I'm building it for, has just sent me this lovely looking Schaller piezo bridge: The other build is going to be similar construction, which is one of the reasons I'm going to build two in parallel. It is going to be a 6-string electric version of Pete's Piccolo Bass: The reason is that I want to see if the advantages of the above design translate fully to a 6-string electric - very light weight (c 6lbs) and super-slim neck to body transition. This is the top - a nice piece of amboyna: ...and the through neck cut from the same beam as Tim's Alembic-esque above Should keep me off the streets for a couple more months, which will please the local constabulary
  23. Well, the newborn and I have said our goodbyes, with one last photo before it goes to its new home: I'm pleased to say that Tim is delighted with it And he's a really good player. It sounded wonderful under his skilled hands... Quite a difficult build in some ways, but one of my favourite results
  24. Stripy Double Cut With An F-Hole

    Excellent for so many reasons
  25. My Les Paul

    Many congratulations on your very well deserved GOTM win @MassimoPL77. It is a superb build on so many levels