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Lumberjack last won the day on May 29

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  1. While that is very flattering, I have to admit I’m a long shot off from having anywhere near complete command over the process, or at least that’s what it feels like! My tools were cheap when they were new, but I got almost all of them even cheaper and half worn out by buying used, and I don’t even have some of the tools most folks seem to have on hand and am perpetually building jigs to make other tools do the job. Every build is an adventure of errors that I scramble to correct by hook or by crook. If I’ve gotten good at anything, it’s damage control after making a bad cut, mismeasuring something, or not planning things out well enough. I really appreciate the encouraging word though! Funny you mentioned FretFind2D, that’s what I used to plot out the scales - conceptually it wasn’t hard I guess, but getting all my lines right across the scales was tougher than I thought it would be based on only the fret locations that site churns out. For instance it doesn’t give you any dimensions for the fretboard itself, so you have to extrapolate the fretboard outline from the fret locations that program gives you Anyhow, I made some more progress today, and it made me wonder what you guys do to cut scarf joints? I have been using an angled jig to run it through the table saw, but that usually leads to somewhat inconsistent results (Pictured below), and I always have a good bit of cleaning up to do before it’s ready for glue. Any other ideas out there? Got the scarf glued and channels routed: Cap for the headstock roughly cut out: Based this slotting jig off a design I saw elsewhere, pretty crude looking but I was amazed at how much the magnets helped keep the blade steady on all the odd angles of the scale: Slotting with this jig went surprisingly well: And trimmed to shape:
  2. Cut the body and trued up the sides - one of my favorite stages of the build, and I couldn’t resist wetting it down to see what the figure would look like:
  3. @ScottR thanks for the input! I’ve been hesitant to dive into 2k for the same reasons, particularly the repair part - pretty sure there’s very little to be done about repairing that type of finish because it’s so inert, I’ve had good luck drop-filling with CA glue and buffing but that can only cover so many types of repairs. Not a very glamorous day in the shop, but still productive - I’ve always drawn my body and headstock shapes by hand, but I really like the shapes on my last build and decided that I’d finally man up and make some long-term master templates as I move forward with various builds. I’ll be taking a new flush-cut router bit through its paces tomorrow, here’s hoping for no chipped-out horn points! Laying out a custom multiscale and making sure everything lined up right proved to be much more time-consuming than I had imagined! Glad I made a template so I never have to do that again (for this scale combination at least) :P Couple coats of acrylic clear to boost longevity and that’s about it.
  4. Some clamping shenanigans for your Friday evening: And the gory aftermath: Somewhat related, I was hope you all would weigh in something: finishes. I’ve used a handful of different finish materials over the years and have been mostly dissatisfied with all of them, everything from lacquer out of a spray can to acrylic polys to oil. I’m thinking of finally investing in some spraying gear and trying 2k finishes like the big boys use, but was curious to see what you all use? The finish I’ve liked the most is a tung oil blend, but it can be a fairly sticky for a few months (though it feels great thereafter) and it doesn’t have the same “finality” of actually locking in a sprayed finish to protect the wood from humidity/temperature/etc. I’ve heard tru oil dries harder and less sticky, but have never tried it. Curious to see what you guys have used and/or are still using, whether it’s sprayed, wiped, burnished, or all of the above! Really hoping to find something quick drying (under a week, a few days would be ideal), fairly durable, non-sticky and easily repeatable.
  5. Restrictions have lightened up where I live and I was able to relocate and get to my tools, so I'm finally starting in on this build. Nothing quite like the smell of freshly-planed mahogany! And now the strangest and happiest of surprises; while I was planing what I thought was a totally normal piece of ebony for the fingerboard, I quickly realized that it's actually a heavily-figured unicorn of a board! I'm no veteran woodworker, but I have never even *heard* of figured ebony (outside of people using the word "figure" to describe grain patterns in ebony, sap-wood inclusions, pale moon ebony patterns, etc.) I was shocked, and had to do some googling to make sure I wasn't actually working with some other species by accident. You can see in the pictures from the first post when it's still rough-cut from the band saw that it looks like a very ordinary piece of ebony, so when I saw the figure I was certain I must have been given a mis-marked piece of curly black walnut or something, but it doesn't smell or respond to tools like walnut, it chips like ebony and smells like it too. Definitely surprised me, and I'm pretty sure this will inadvertently become the most beautiful fretboard I've even made!
  6. Thanks so much everyone, really means a lot to me coming from a community of fellow builders!
  7. Thanks for the encouragement everyone - as it turns out, I live in Maryland and we were just put on "shelter in place" orders the other day, and unfortunately I'm currently hunkered down in a location away from home and (horror of horrors) away from my tools. Not worth explaining why I suppose, but suffice it to say I'm suddenly not sure when I'll be able to dig in on this build after all! Things are changing hour by hour it seems. Hope you are all safe and healthy!
  8. Hey guys n’ gals, the wood all came in for my next build so I figured I’d get this thread started! This will be a 7-string multiscale guitar, and will have a very similar design to my most recent build. However, this guitar’s theme will be the blood moon, and as such it will feature colors, inlays, and other design elements to suit. Projected specs: - Quilted maple top and headstock cap, natural quilted maple “binding” - Ribbon mahogany body - Roasted single-piece curly maple set neck with 2x carbon fiber rods - 25.5”-26.25” multiscale with perpendicular fret at 8 or so, 24 stainless steel frets, slight upper fretboard scallop - Undecided on fretboard wood, either quilted maple or ebony - Locking Sperzel tuners - Hipshot multiscale fixed bridge - Bareknuckle Juggernaut humbuckers - Some lunar-themed inlays in the fretboard and elsewhere. Pics of the wood: Really looking forward to this one, and should be able to get to work on it soon. Cheers!
  9. Thanks! And yes, sometimes I feel like the finish (regardless of how clear) can somewhat muffle the "activity" of the wood's figure in light, but this one seemed to turn out well. I was actually somewhat worried it would be a difference I didn't like, but I find myself enjoying it. Something about the position of the fretboard relative to the torso is quite comfy this way. I've been sitting in the classical position to practice lately, and it feels a bit more like that when standing.
  10. Got a little demo recorded this afternoon. Cheers!
  11. Ah, maybe I should just cut my fingernails more often - I tend to snag them on finished boards when the frets are shallow. To each his own, and best of luck! Are you gunna have black pickups or go white with those as well? You mentioned Star Wars and this build is sort of reminding me of a storm trooper
  12. Beautiful work, I love to see your headstocks and volutes take shape! Very satisfying to see those emerge with traditional hand tools. Makes me wish I had a nice set of gouges!
  13. Possibly mask off the fretboard when you spray your next project? Probably too much work to sand all that paint off the fretboard at this point. Are the frets very tall? Might have a bit of trouble if you build a lot of opaque coats on the board if they're short frets, as the finish will come up fairly high relative to the crown of the frets - fingernails digging into the finish and such. Maybe not though! I have had rough luck trying to spray paint metal hardware, usually flakes off of the saddles and tuners and such where you have moving parts or parts touching the strings. Either way hope it turns out well for ya.
  14. Awesome looking build - love the multiscale and rear-mounted jack!
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