Jump to content

Lumberjack

GOTY Winner
  • Posts

    119
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    14

Lumberjack last won the day on January 16 2022

Lumberjack had the most liked content!

3 Followers

About Lumberjack

Profile Information

  • Location
    Baltimore

Recent Profile Visitors

1,270 profile views

Lumberjack's Achievements

Collaborator

Collaborator (7/14)

  • Dedicated Rare
  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Reacting Well Rare

Recent Badges

255

Reputation

  1. Incredible work! I love your designs, and the timber is simply stunning. Thanks for sharing with us despite the struggles.
  2. Thanks guys! Good to be back to woodworking. I got into building pedals and modding amps, which took up a lot of my free time for a while - certainly lots of fun, but not the same type of satisfaction that woodworking brings, and at the end of the day there's nothing quite like bringing an instrument into the world. Anywhooo, I got a bit more done on this neck: maple glued to the face, truss rod routed, etc. I've had bad luck routing the little pocket that the end of the trussrod sits in, and decided to do this by hand with a dremel. Might do this more often; I've chewed up a headstock or two trying to route these, not sure why, but this was much easier to control. I use an allen wrench that I sawed short so I don't have to cut such long pockets in the headstock. Question for you guys on truss rod rattle; have you ever had a build that did it? I had one rattle a while back and ever since I've used a couple dabs of silicone or similar type of sealant in the truss rod channel near the ends and a couple along the channel, never had a problem since. I've been using StewMac hotrod trussrods for years and was surprised when that one rattled since I've never had any issues putting them in dry before that, but a rattling rod is a real pain and it was enough for me to start using silicone. Any thoughts/methods/materials you all recommend or advise against? I've heard of folks using electrical tape, teflon tape, silicone, and am always looking to learn more.
  3. My super-elite joining method for bookmatch tops = sandpaper, heh heh Looks dumb, works great though: After glue up: A little bummed by the heartwood/sapwood contrast on the scarf, but I think by the time I’ve carved the neck and cut the headstock I’ll have cut through the bit of sapwood on the edge, we’ll see. Top & body squish: Clamping some quilt onto the face of the headstock:
  4. Greetings lads - it’s been a while! I haven’t had time to build in a bit, but am excited to dive back in on this one. Here’s the wood, just got everything planed to thickness today: Lightly figured walnut body, 1/4” quilted maple top, walnut neck, ebony fingerboard. It will be a 25.5” super strat sort of thing, but with a tune-o-matic bridge and stoptail, 3+3 headstock, and 2 humbuckers - the trace looks pointy but I’m going with rounded/softer shapes for this. Still a bit torn on 22 vs 24 frets for this one. Headstock shape and overall color of the top will be a game-time decision as well, but I’m leaning toward a darker amber/tobacco/reddish brown sorta burst for the top and leaving all the walnut natural with dark grain filler. PRS style faux binding on the body and headstock, big ergonomic carves for belly and arm. Cheers!
  5. For what it's worth, I don't have any special reason for sticking with Jescar - they were the first brand of stainless I tried and I never had any reason to switch it up, it was always perfect as far as I could tell so I never had any motivation to experiment with other brands. I've tried all kinds of nickel though. The Jescar stuff just seems consistent to me so I stuck with it. Anyways, this build is done!
  6. Got all the fretwork done today. Jescar stainless steel has been an absolute game changer - I love the stuff!
  7. Back to work: I ended up going with a matte finish for both the neck and body. Neck bound, inlays in, frets pressed, but still have all my fretwork to do yet, along with plenty of other stuff. Pickguard scroll sawed out. Back covers done. Pick guard finished.
  8. Oh yeah, they're pretty tight - I didn't measure them, but kept them as square as possible throughout the whole body building process and knocked off the hard corner with some 220 right before sealing.
  9. Thanks for the kind words everyone! The color did come out well, better than I had hoped honestly. I'm not sure which radii you mean, the horn tips, or the edges or something?
  10. Finally got around to reading through this build - such a beauty! The final look is striking and very attractive. Would definitely want this on my own guitar rack!
  11. Lots of awesome info on binding here, thanks so much guys! I really do appreciate it. I'll definitely be referencing your replies the next time I have a run in with the plastic stuff, and I think I will because it's looks so crisp and bright next to the ebony. Got some progress done, some of these photos were ripped from cell phone video I took so they're pretty janky. Got the trem and control cavity covers made. Infamous "no bolts" neck joint tightness test. ^ This and the next couple pics below are the janky ones. Simple dots. A few coats of color and the neck carved and inlayed. Really liking the color of the baked maple. I initially had a very matte top coat in mind for this guitar, but now that I see the color shining a bit, the idea of gloss has sort of made a come back in my mind. What do ya think, matte or gloss on this guy? It will have a pickguard of sorts, and I think that will be the same as whatever the body ends up being, i.e. matte or gloss.
  12. The springy part was exactly the problem for the straight sides, very difficult/squirrely trying to get it to lay down - I’ll try heat next time. And… I’ll probably just build a jig. Jigs seem to solve all my life problems.
  13. Hey guys, it’s been a while! Finally got some time for another build. Vaguely 1980’s inspired, I just needed something slightly less figured and stabby to play with my friends (classic rock and 1980s/1990s covers, my usual pointy quilted maple schtick doesn’t match the vibe). Specs: - 24 ss frets, 25.5” scale bolt on. - Alder body, baked maple neck, bound ebony board with plain dots. - Gotoh Floyd (1996T), Hipshot tuners, DiMarzio Rainmaker/Dreamcatcher humbuckers. - Solid color painted body, matte baby blue/daphne, natural matte neck. -White pickguard, all hardware black. - 1 volume, 3-way toggle, that’s it I haven’t been too thoughtful/deliberate about pictures, just sorta snapping random stuff so here goes. First time doing a multi-piece body blank actually. I almost never use opaque paint so I never had a reason/excuse to do multi-piece bodies, but I kinda wanted to try it. My extremely professional joining method. Band sawed out. Shaped up. It’s been at least 12 years since I routed for a Floyd, let’s just say I’m glad I’ll be painting this body and get to use primer and a few coats of opaque paint to cover everything up! This is about where it stands, very similar to my usual shape but I plan on continuing to soften up the points and edges a bit. Not exactly a classic look I guess, but at least SOMEwhat less pokey. I’ve been doing faux binding on bodies and wooden binding on necks for a long while, never used this plastic stuff before actually. What a pain! So much more annoying to work with than wooden binding, or maybe it’s just that I’m not used to it. Couldn't rig up a decent clamping situation so I ended up using rubber bands and bleeding CA glue in. Worked fine but come on…. How do you guys do the plastic stuff? Do you heat it up? Any tips?
  14. Yeah, it scoots down on the right hand side. I think I'm going to end up prying up the staples and straightening that out, it's too bothersome to leave it be.
×
×
  • Create New...