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Defthane Polyeurethane


westhemann

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I love Defthane in the can. I like the satin for necks. It's one of the few satins that doesn't shine up too easily. It's pretty hard with a high satin powder content. I've used it on necks and I also used it on the top of my thin bodied classical for a nice thin finish that was still protective. It's even better if you spray the last coats in a light dry misting. Then its really dry and satiny. If you spray it "wet" it dries smoother and creamier, which is good for headstocks but not so much necks.

I need to get some gloss for headstocks. You can use the satin as a sanding sealer for the gloss too. Like over black for example, or over your logos, to smooth out the light refraction.

I had a deal with them where one of my cans ran out of propellant with about 3/4 material left in the can. I e-mailed them just to let them know. I truly wasn't looking for free stuff. They were the best I've ever dealt with. They cared about little old me, the end user. They sent me a 6-pack free of charge. I'll do anything I can to support them now, and not because I got free stuff. But because I genuinely wish them continued success.

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http://doitbest.com/shop/product.asp?mscss...3580&sku=781032

this stuff in gloss spray

How's that finish looking now that it's had some drying time?

Did the thick application keep it wet?

yeah it is pretty easy to apply thick enough for the wet look without running.

but watch out for them fumes man! i had a bad night last night from that.still stuffed up too.

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So Wes-

This stuff's non-yellowing (then)?

And as far as it being "interior/exterior"...I'm hoping it isn't designed to expand & contract with the weather (iow, with temperature changes). I know that other products such as Spar Urethane & Varathane, well, they do that. And we wouldn't want anything like that on our guitars!

I'm still theorizing, so to speak, on guitar-finishes in general (and am basically inexperienced)....outside of some StewMac (Nitro) Lacquer that I personally didn't care for.

Any other details I've missed?

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And as far as it being "interior/exterior"...I'm hoping it isn't designed to expand & contract with the weather (iow, with temperature changes). I know that other products such as Spar Urethane & Varathane, well, they do that. And we wouldn't want anything like that on our guitars!

_____________________

If it didn't expand and contract, you'd have a cracked finish before long.

All guitars expand and contract with the weather, and the finish has to be able to move with the wood. :D

There -are- a few finishes that actually seal the wood -so- well that very little expansion and contraction takes place, but those are the same finishes that are touted as the 'tone killers', like thick Poly and some other crosslinkers.

Now, -glues- that are designed to expand and contract with the weather (like Titebond II) are a whole 'nother matter.

Is that what you were referring to?

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Wes-

It sounds like yer gonna be OK...(I'm no expert at all)!

'Learning things all the time....

Drak-

Is that what you were referring to?

I'm referring to, well, just lotsa stuff I've read on the web (many articles & different/opposing IMO's on various Forums, both guitar-related and for just "wood-working"). I can't remember where I saw it but do recall someone saying that any "exterior" varnish and especially (spar)-urethane should not be used on guitars. If I'm not mistaken this had to do with "tone-dampening" (or silencing); that the stuff's too dense for guitars...as you've also just said.

I've also heard that some finishes are incompatible with guitars due to their "over-sealing" (the wood), making it virtually un-expandable (or retracting with temp changes). I would tend to think this would be the case with "EnviroTex" (clear & very thick epoxy). I saw a thread on that stuff where you & some other PGers were asking about it. That's another topic, perhaps, though I do have some related-info.

Since I'm new at all this, I'm taking a theoretical approach to whatever I do. So I rely on product-information as well as IMO's on the web. In any event I would think that any Polyurethane product should work with guitars...I guess (?).

But....

There -are- a few finishes that actually seal the wood -so- well that very little expansion and contraction takes place, but those are the same finishes that are touted as the 'tone killers', like thick Poly and some other crosslinkers.
I just hope Wes didn't get some of that "too thick" stuff...is really all I'm saying.

This link has some info y'all may wanna look at, I dunno:

Paint Quality Institute: All About Clear-Coatings

Not to cause any confusion or anything(!),

rick

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Edited by rick_here
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Wes let us know how long it took to dry!!! I have used duplicolor clear, and I am pretty good at laying it thick without runs, but Ihave found out that the thicker I lay it the longer it takes to dry, so if I lay a very thick coat, from now on I will wait about a week before laying another coat on, the blue strat that I painted about 3 months ago still showing areas that are "wet" inside.

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um...well i layed a medium thick coat(the guitar was hanging by the peghead,so it can't be too thick or it will run)and it took about 8 hours to stop being tacky...then the next day i built up the back alone by laying it flat on it's fron...and it took about 12 hours to stop being tacky

and i sanded off a couple of pieces of trash on the front already,and it sanded properly(you know how if you don't wait long enough it will tend to sand less effectively)

so i think this stuff should probably only take about a week after the final coat until i can sand it and buff it out

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