Bassisgreat Posted February 16, 2005 Report Share Posted February 16, 2005 Looks good, but I would space out the 4 side just a bit more and place the pegs on the 3 side between the pegs on the 4 side. ← Ditto. This is the best one yet, and I think these changes could make it really classy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
!!METAL MATT!! Posted February 17, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2005 Well I tryed to work on the string pegs with no luck I would move them around but all that it would do is make the string pull to extrem to one side or another so I think that iam going to leave it the way it is! unless someone else has any ideas on how it would work! !!METAL MATT!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted February 17, 2005 Report Share Posted February 17, 2005 (edited) or you could use steinberger gearless tuners and move the fourth one in the middle so it makes a point. tuners With those tuners you could make just about any headstock style you want and just put the tuners in the middle. Hell you could make the heastock 3 feet wide if you wanted! I think it would look killer if you made it look like an axe or a knife and than painted it with shiny silver paint. (mabye with a little blood dripping?) Edited February 18, 2005 by Godin SD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePlague Posted February 17, 2005 Report Share Posted February 17, 2005 i like the new design a lot more. i still think you should compress it a bit so the string pull is completely straight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
!!METAL MATT!! Posted February 18, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2005 or you could use steinberger gearless tuners and move the fourth one in the middle so it makes a point. tuners With those tuners you could make just about any headstock style you want and just put the tuners in the middle. Hell you could make the heastock 3 feet wide if you wanted! I think it would look killer if you made it look like an axe of a knife and than painted it with shiny silver paint. (mabye with a little blood dripping?) ← Hay thous things look great man It's just to bad that they dont come in 7-string sets I could 2 sets' but that's alot of money for me right now !!METAL MATT!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
!!METAL MATT!! Posted March 1, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2005 YA the IMPALER is going for lacquer tonight Now all I have left to do is a ton of wet sanding and painting the headstock!! !!METAL MATT!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadmike Posted March 1, 2005 Report Share Posted March 1, 2005 WWWOOOHOOOOOO!!!!! any esimate on finishing??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
!!METAL MATT!! Posted March 2, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2005 WWWOOOHOOOOOO!!!!! any esimate on finishing??? ← Well with me haveing to go back and forth to the shop (it's a 30 min drive) I think it should be all done in about 2 weeks !!METAL MATT!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
!!METAL MATT!! Posted March 5, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2005 Ok now I know this is one crappy ass pic but it's too dark for me to take better iam realy happy sofar so I could not wait I will post some beter ones in the morning !!METAL MATT!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digideus Posted March 5, 2005 Report Share Posted March 5, 2005 (edited) right, dont laugh..... http://homepage.ntlworld.com/jeffnvicki/headstock.jpg i knocked this up in about 5 mins in paint shop pro Any good for the impaler headstock? its sort of based on the body. That lower horn have me the initial idea. I think with a bit of tweaking you could position 7 tuning heads on it in a 3 x 4 configuration, and keep the strings pretty straight. 8 may be pushing it, but im sure theres a way. at least you can kill things with it if nothing else! Edited March 5, 2005 by Digideus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
!!METAL MATT!! Posted March 5, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2005 (edited) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/ZAD...ingguitar45.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/ZAD...dingguitar2.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/ZAD...dingguitar1.jpg OK I took some good pic's outside Iam realy happy with how well it's going sofar What do you guy's think?? Oh ya by the way just so you guy's know That's not me holding the guitar that's cayle the guy iam teaching how to build guitars where going to be geting some work done on his B.C Rich copy today so I thought I would kill to birds with on stone And make him hold up the IMPALER so I could finily take some good pics !!METAL MATT!! Edited March 5, 2005 by !!METAL MATT!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marzocchi705 Posted March 5, 2005 Report Share Posted March 5, 2005 That looks amazing. i drew up a headstock design bassed on digideus' Here it is You do good work man, keep it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digideus Posted March 5, 2005 Report Share Posted March 5, 2005 Matt, that body is just awesome! I can imagine Trey Azagthoth playing one of those in the very near future! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
!!METAL MATT!! Posted March 5, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2005 Ok guy's I have A dumb question to ask I'm going to start my wet sanding but all I have right now is 600 grit WILL THIS WORK !!METAL MATT!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyclone Posted March 6, 2005 Report Share Posted March 6, 2005 Matt, I am going to ask some questions first. Is the body already cleared if, I assume that it is frome the pics, If so the 600 grit should only be used to take off the heavy orange peal because it will leave scratches in the finish that you will not be able to buff out. At this point you should go to a 1000 grit to even it out then 1500 grit to remove the rest of the scrathces and finally 2000 grit. when you are finished with this process get some finishing compound and buff it to a high gloss. I am not sure how many coats of clear you have on the guitar but I would not even think about going through the above process with out having at least 10 coats on the guitar. I am not sure what your knowledge is with regard to painiting and finishing so please forgive me if I have included something above that you may already know. Additionally you progress thusfar is very impressive and I am looking forward to seeing it finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
!!METAL MATT!! Posted March 6, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2005 (edited) Matt, I am going to ask some questions first. Is the body already cleared if, I assume that it is frome the pics, If so the 600 grit should only be used to take off the heavy orange peal because it will leave scratches in the finish that you will not be able to buff out. At this point you should go to a 1000 grit to even it out then 1500 grit to remove the rest of the scrathces and finally 2000 grit. when you are finished with this process get some finishing compound and buff it to a high gloss. I am not sure how many coats of clear you have on the guitar but I would not even think about going through the above process with out having at least 10 coats on the guitar. I am not sure what your knowledge is with regard to painiting and finishing so please forgive me if I have included something above that you may already know. Additionally you progress thusfar is very impressive and I am looking forward to seeing it finished. ← Well I'm a bit touch and go on my finishing skill's most of the time I dont do the finishing, I really want to learn all I can and I want to do this right so thanks for the info it saved my ass some pain! Matt, that body is just awesome! I can imagine Trey Azagthoth playing one of those in the very near future! Cool man I'm glade you like it and thanks for the headstock designs Marzocchi705 Digideus I will try to work with them and I'll see what I can come up with! !!METAL MATT!! Edited March 6, 2005 by !!METAL MATT!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden69 Posted March 6, 2005 Report Share Posted March 6, 2005 Go buy some sand paper , I smell cheap!!! Seriously, go get some 800-1000-1500-2000 and make sure that you sand until the scratches from the previous sandpaper are gone, you will not (or otleast it will be almost impossible) be able to polish 600-1000 scratches unless you have a good polishing rig. Is there a lot of orange peel on the body, if so, I will tell you to sand to 600 until it's smooth, then spray 2 more coats and make sure that you do them good, there should me minimal peel at this time, then just start sanding with 1000. Preping is te most important part of a good finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
!!METAL MATT!! Posted March 6, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2005 Go buy some sand paper , I smell cheap!!! Seriously, go get some 800-1000-1500-2000 and make sure that you sand until the scratches from the previous sandpaper are gone, you will not (or otleast it will be almost impossible) be able to polish 600-1000 scratches unless you have a good polishing rig. Is there a lot of orange peel on the body, if so, I will tell you to sand to 600 until it's smooth, then spray 2 more coats and make sure that you do them good, there should me minimal peel at this time, then just start sanding with 1000. Preping is te most important part of a good finish. ← Ok I can get the sand paper not's not A big deal but what I really need to know is how do I deal with runs? So I thought I had to wet sand after each coat Do I? I just dont really know for sure I have done my own finishing before with out wet sanding but I want to know how it's done the right way! step by step I know that I've been building guitars for years now but finishing was a real gray area for me (I did not have PG back then} asking about this kind of stuff is realy hard for me I HATE looking like a DUMB BOOB but if I don't ask I will never know! !!METAL MATT!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyclone Posted March 6, 2005 Report Share Posted March 6, 2005 Matt, dont sweat the small stuff, we were all boobs at one time or another and remember the only stupid question is the one not asked. If anyone here gets frustrated with your questions they should reevaluate why they are here. If I am not mistaken this forum is here to help everyone learn and grow from our experiences. with regard to runs you can wet sand them down with the 600 however, after which the whole guitar should be scuffed and cleared again as Madien mentioned earlier. For tips on spraying. When you go to shoot the clear on after the removal of the runs you should first spray a light coat on the body. This is known as a "tac coat". Let this sit for about 10 to 15 minutes. What is happening in that 10-15 minutes is the light coat is starting to cure so when you come back you can spray a heavier coat on and if it is not too thick it should not run. Wait another 15-20 minutes and shoot on another heavy coat. Let this cure over night or for better results wait 2-3 days before wet sanding again. this will allow for a good proper cure of the clear. When I paint/finish a guitar I use automotive paints and clears typically PPG products so the methods that I employ are those used by automotive painters. If you let me know what type of clear and brand I may be able to help you more. Good luck and keep the pics comming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neon_Knightmare Posted March 6, 2005 Report Share Posted March 6, 2005 Matt, that guitar body looks like it kills puppies for fun. In a word, AWESOME. Digideus's headstock design looks perfect for it in my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted March 7, 2005 Report Share Posted March 7, 2005 I gotta say that when I saw it in all the pics I thought it was some HUGH thing and I diddnt really like it. But when I saw someone holding it... WOW It's sooo small. I love the design when it's up aganist someone. It is just a work of art! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sambo Posted March 7, 2005 Report Share Posted March 7, 2005 nice guitar dude, at least noones gonna mess with you on stage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadmike Posted March 7, 2005 Report Share Posted March 7, 2005 you'll take someones eye out with that!!! especially if you play like me, i get a bit carried away and fling mines about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
!!METAL MATT!! Posted March 7, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2005 Cool Iam glad that you guy's like it It is comeing out deadly, Last knight I just had to but a few parts on-the neck and the pot's and my jack plate and man WOW this thing looks so sweeet I love the IMPALER it not that it just looks good it is so comftable with regard to runs you can wet sand them down with the 600 however, after which the whole guitar should be scuffed and cleared again as Madien mentioned earlier. For tips on spraying. When you go to shoot the clear on after the removal of the runs you should first spray a light coat on the body. This is known as a "tac coat". Let this sit for about 10 to 15 minutes. What is happening in that 10-15 minutes is the light coat is starting to cure so when you come back you can spray a heavier coat on and if it is not too thick it should not run. Wait another 15-20 minutes and shoot on another heavy coat. Let this cure over night or for better results wait 2-3 days before wet sanding again. this will allow for a good proper cure of the clear. When I paint/finish a guitar I use automotive paints and clears typically PPG products so the methods that I employ are those used by automotive painters. If you let me know what type of clear and brand I may be able to help you more. Good luck and keep the pics comming. Thanks for the help sofar but I still have a few Questions if you don't mind? 1.Ok I only have the one coat on sofar can I still sand out the run? 2.After how many coats should I wet sand? and in what order of sanding grit's 3.Iam not really sure what you mean by (scuffed and cleared) And Iam not realy sure what type of clear Ben uses but it's not automotive for sure !!METAL MATT!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyclone Posted March 7, 2005 Report Share Posted March 7, 2005 Thanks for the help sofar but I still have a few Questions if you don't mind? 1.Ok I only have the one coat on sofar can I still sand out the run? 2.After how many coats should I wet sand? and in what order of sanding grit's 3.Iam not really sure what you mean by (scuffed and cleared) And Iam not realy sure what type of clear Ben uses but it's not automotive for sure !!METAL MATT!! ← Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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