RRVCustom Posted January 12, 2005 Report Share Posted January 12, 2005 (edited) Well, i started this about 2 months ago, and i got the body all shaped and ready to be routed. only took me about two weeks to make it, but i had to make the money to buy the templates from StewMac. just got em yesterday, gonna start routing the cavities soon. the only problem is, i dont have the neck yet (haven't got warmoth's shipment yet.), so i cant measure accurately where to put the trem and p-ups cavities. any ideas? i'm also debating whether to front rout or back rout it. i would like it to look semi-professional, but it IS my first project. By the way, here're my specs so far for wood and hardware: 2 piece ash body maple neck ebony fretboard (21 frets) 6150 fretwire Seymour Duncan Livewire humbuckers (active on bridge) Floyd-Schaller trem floyd locking nut d'addario strings (heavy low light top) chrome hardware white pickguard black body Zach wylde-style chain strap any q's or comments, feel free to drop me a line: lsvlsccr00@yahoo.com EDIT: I'm also planning on getting a site w/ pix up as soon as i can aquire a digi camera. Edited January 12, 2005 by RRVCustom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveq Posted January 12, 2005 Report Share Posted January 12, 2005 What radius is the fretboard going to be? Sounds like a fun project! Oh yeah - have you considered using the stewmac trem posts/bushings? They are made of hardened steel and seem to hold up very well. They aren't the same diameter as the standard bushings so keep that in mind if you are going to use them. I've been using them on every guitar ever since I had one of the standard posts give me problems. I gouged a set when setting up my first guitar. I raised/lowered the bridge with full string tension and the guitar never returned to zero very well. It's easy enough to replace them but that's what lead me into checking out the stewmac posts. I don't recommend doing what I did (with full tension) with the stewmac posts either by the way . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
!!METAL MATT!! Posted January 12, 2005 Report Share Posted January 12, 2005 I have just one thing to say "wait for the shipment" If you dont know the scale of the neck you have you will have a hard time geting all your measurement's accurate and you may reck you first guitar and that would realy suck. so play it safe and wait I know it suck's but it's worth it and welcome to the forum !!METAL MATT!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RRVCustom Posted January 13, 2005 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2005 well, i gotta admit i dont know much bout the hardware stuff(posts and bushings), but i do know that it's a warmoth neck, and they do that variable radius thing. also, it's a 25.5 scale neck, so all the measurements are good. started the routing today, actually all i got done was attaching the front trem template and drilling the indexing hole for the back one. i got a nice 4 day weekend, so another update comin tues. hopefully soon ill have a digital camera to put up some pix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crafty Posted January 13, 2005 Report Share Posted January 13, 2005 Zach wylde-style chain strap Er, you might want to go down to Home Depot and see how much that chain REALLY weighs before you decide to use it as a "strap". Log chain is very heavy. Besides, it just looks dumb unless you really are Zakk Wylde... ebony fretboard (21 frets) Why only 21 frets? You won't be able to play as "high" as Zakk... i'm also debating whether to front rout or back rout it. i would like it to look semi-professional, but it IS my first project. It's actually more work to front-route a V...also, if you go into it with a "semi-pro" attitude, it will wind up looking like crap. Treat it like you're building it for Randy or Zakk and you'll make a much better guitar. the only problem is, i dont have the neck yet (haven't got warmoth's shipment yet.), so i cant measure accurately where to put the trem and p-ups cavities. any ideas? WAIT FOR THE NECK!!! Your measurements are all going to be based on the distance from the 1st and 12th frets to the bridge. If you are off by even 1/4 of an inch, you might end up trashing the body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RRVCustom Posted January 24, 2005 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2005 (edited) UPDATE well, the chain i bought is 5/16, i think zakk uses 9. so the weight isnt an issue. i've been using the thing on my FirstAct for a while now, and it feels good. takes a lil getin used to. i figured out how to mark the cavities. i went to www.jacksonguitars.com and got a pic of the RR3. took some measurements (1st-12th, etc.), and figured out that the pic is a 8.16:1 to the real thing. used that for body size, and cavity markings. got the front trem cavity routed. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND A BIT WITH A GUIDE BEARING!!! i took a small chunk out of my template, b/c i didn't spend the extra 30-40 $$ for a bearing (my bits didnt have any). i got the front cavity routed to 1-1/8", like stewmac said to. goin to get the back cavity sometime in the next couple days. buying a disposible camera or two today, and my mom has a scanner. pix comin soon!! Also, Crafty, i decided on 21 frets b/c i don't want to have to move the neck p-up. i'm worried that will mess everything up tone-wise, and to tell the truth, im still somewhat technically illiterate. BTW, what is so much harder about a front rout? the only really tough thing will be drilling holes for wires, but the dad of this girl i work with is going to wire it, so i dont need to learn to solder just yet. YAY Edited January 24, 2005 by RRVCustom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crafty Posted January 24, 2005 Report Share Posted January 24, 2005 You can go up to 22 frets without moving the neck pickup. Also, for some reason I was thinking about the front route on a traditional V. Those are usually much larger and more complicated than the Jackson-style RRVs. Learn to solder. It's about the easiest part of guitar repair and construction. You won't have to depend on someone else to it for you, too. Drilling the holes for wiring is even easier, just use long bits and some cardboard to protect the top if the spinning chuck is going to rub up against it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RRVCustom Posted January 25, 2005 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2005 ok, got an email from garrett @ warmoth. the neck was already made for the 1 11/16" nut, but it had to be milled to correct height for an extra $30. anyone wanna translate? also, sasha @ WM said that it's ready to ship, so it'll prolly be here by next monday at the latest (WA to OH...UPS....). get ready for pix. i got a digital throwaway camera yesterday, so expect 27 pix at the least. lol, i hate wasting exposures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill-Murray Posted January 26, 2005 Report Share Posted January 26, 2005 Extra $30?? If it was their mistake then you don't pay for it.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RRVCustom Posted January 26, 2005 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2005 Extra $30?? If it was their mistake then you don't pay for it.. ← that's what i thought too. i'll have to ask about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill-Murray Posted January 26, 2005 Report Share Posted January 26, 2005 Yeah, definately check into that. I think that guy was too hard on you, lots of peoples first guitars turned out super nice. As long as you have the tools, take your time, and did the research you'll be fine. Do you have any prior woodworking exp?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattdowney Posted January 26, 2005 Report Share Posted January 26, 2005 i think if your building a rhoads you should really have 22 freats or even 24 . a 22 freat neck wont effect your neck pickup tone at all, a 24 fret neck will a little bit, but nothing bad. anyway keep us posted, sounds like a great project. here are some pics of the rhoads i built last year. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v169/mat...ar_pics_056.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v169/mat...ar_pics_050.jpg later on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RRVCustom Posted January 27, 2005 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2005 (edited) matt, nice V. personally, i don't like the headstock (too much like Strat), but to each his own, right? the neck i ordered is a warmoth neck, so it's got the LP-style head. i'm gonna strip it (its got this trans blue paint as is) and try to cut it to look more like it belongs on the V. i'm going for one of the following headstock looks: Dean ML BC Rich Virgo BC Rich Beast any ideas? also, UPS.com says my package (hee hee) should be here by feb. 1st, so i better get movin. i'll put up pix as soon as the guitar is done, or the camera is developed, whichever comes first. guarentee its the camera. Edited January 27, 2005 by RRVCustom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattdowney Posted January 27, 2005 Report Share Posted January 27, 2005 i really dont think a headstock like the bc rich ones would look good. a rhoads is a classy looking guitar and i dont think a headstock like that would look good. thats just my oppinion, do whatever you think looks good. i think a more standard jackson style headstock would look better. jackson have a king v with a 3 per side headstock, it could look good too. i think a standard jackson headstock is best, but maybe a explorer style? do whatever you want and im sure it will turn out great. let us know how it turns out. king v http://www.jacksonguitars.com/gear/gear.php?partno=KV2T lates, matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RRVCustom Posted January 27, 2005 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2005 wow, i didn't know jackson made a 3L3R headstock. definately goin with that. thatnks a ton! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RRVCustom Posted February 3, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2005 ok, got my parts tues., started assembly. still havent found a router, gonna hit the hardware store tomorrow and rent one if i cant use my uncle's. got the black gotohs into the unfinished maple headstock, and wow. it looks amazing. i cant decide whether to clear coat it or just leave it unfinished, like i am with the back of the neck. i hate that sticky feeling to a finished neck. the p-up mounting rings look great, chrome on black. chrome knobs (1V 1T), chrome Schaller-Floyd bridge, chrome Schaller locking nut. i think i'm gonna go with a gloss black finish on the body, to accentuate the chrome and so the p-guard offsets. i got about 20 pix left on the throwaway cam, so pix comin when thats finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RRVCustom Posted February 22, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2005 maybe a bad problem... i went to test fit the p-up mountin ring for the bridge bucker, and the screws are 2 short. any ideas? anyway, got the routings all done, except for the control cavity. need to finish the pickguard first, so i know where i want the knobs. i expect to be done with the body by fri. gonna paint once i get a job and $$, so dont expect that for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RRVCustom Posted March 18, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2005 ok, been a while since an update, but i'm back. got it all ready to paint, found a buddy to do it cheap. he does cars on the side, so he uses house of kolor paints. he told me to just scuff it up, like 120-200 grit, and he'll do the rest (primer, etc). i was thinking color-wise, that Limetime Pearl would be a sweet color. anyone else agree? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crafty Posted March 18, 2005 Report Share Posted March 18, 2005 It'd be sweet, but even sweeter with a Lime Gold accent, like a racing stripe or wing stripes like what RR had on his original Jackson. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RRVCustom Posted March 19, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2005 good idea, tho im on a budget. ill see if i can get him to work that in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RRVCustom Posted April 2, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2005 change of plans. the guy wants $250 to paint it. yea right! im thinkin emerald green krylon. can i clear coat over enamel? thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Cavanaugh Posted April 2, 2005 Report Share Posted April 2, 2005 If by saying "active on bridge" you mean it will just be the bridge pickup turned on all the time (as many hard rock\metal players do), I'd recommend not even routing and installing a neck pickup. I understand you probably want it to look like Randy's guitar somewhat, but consider these factors: 1. More labor must be put into it for something you won't use. 2. You'll spend a lot of money on a nice pickup you'll never use. 3. You'll have better strength and sustain in the body without having the neck pickup routed. This would especially be good to have in a guitar that has as little wood around the neck joint as the Randy Rhoads shape. BTW, Krylon can be clearcoated but you should make sure the clearcoat is stronger than the base coat and doesn't have some sort of chemical reaction (if they're different types) that would destroy the finish. Also, if you're putting sanding sealer on it, I highly recommend getting some Primer and spraying that on first, I found that out the hard way refinishing a body that I stripped down to the sealer. It started pealing and flaking off real quick. I think it was harder than the paint which would explain it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RRVCustom Posted April 2, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2005 no, that's not what i meant by active. active is active electronics. as in battery-powered. actually, im planning on using both at all times. no switch. also, i talked to the guy at the hardware store, and he said sanding sealer goes under stain, not enamel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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