Jupiter Posted June 15, 2003 Report Share Posted June 15, 2003 Hey guys! I found some thick pine boards in my garage. They're about 1 3/4 inch thick, just right for a body! I think i'll try to make a body out of it, just for practice. If it seems like a doable job, i'll use nicer wood next time. I'll probably route it to fit the neck from my Schecter. I also plan on making it like a 4-piece body, seeing as how pine isn't the most dense of woods. I don't know anything about pine in terms of stability or tone, but i think it's good practice all the same. Anybody ever worked with pine? What were the results? Wish me luck! Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted June 16, 2003 Report Share Posted June 16, 2003 I haven't used it for a guitar body but I'm sure somebody has sometime in history. Just be sure it is cured and dried since Pine has a real sappy nature to it. From what I know it is also very flexable so it will be interesting to see and hear what you end up with. Plus what better to practice on then free wood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LGM Guitars Posted June 16, 2003 Report Share Posted June 16, 2003 I made my first ever body from pine, it works, it seems to shrink a fair bit (I just remember my finish looking like **** after the first year, but I was 15, it could ahve just been me LOL!!!!!!) I think it's fairly similar to basswood, it's quite soft and easy to work with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
syxxstring Posted June 17, 2003 Report Share Posted June 17, 2003 Weren't some of the original Fenders made from pine? I remember reading that somewhere, maybe uncle mel's book?(which should be the faq's for this type of discusion) For the most part the woods we use now are bassed on tradition, so try something new. Fender mostly choose woods, from what i hear, for price and convience. Iv'e seen all sorts of stuff in my pawn guitar shop journeys, Oak Ibanez's etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jupiter Posted June 17, 2003 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2003 Okay, sweet! That's great to hear. For some reason, i'm still a little concerned about the stability of pine, so i'm going to try to do a biscuit join between the pieces of the body! I don't think it will be going anywhere after that... By the way, i know all of you guys are Titebond devotees, but will Elmers Wood Glue do the job? What makes Titebond better? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LGM Guitars Posted June 17, 2003 Report Share Posted June 17, 2003 Titebond is an aliphatic resin. It creates a FAR stronger bond, is less susceptible to moisture (after fully cured) less susceptible to vibration (of which a guitar see's lots) and doesn't deteriorate over time. Elmers is fine for grade school projects, but I wouldn't use it on a guitar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jupiter Posted June 17, 2003 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2003 Wow, thanks for all the info, Jeremy! I'll definately buy some Titebond II when i start the project. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted June 18, 2003 Report Share Posted June 18, 2003 Weren't some of the original Fenders made from pine? I remember reading that somewhere, maybe uncle mel's book?(which should be the faq's for this type of discusion) For the most part the woods we use now are bassed on tradition, so try something new. Fender mostly choose woods, from what i hear, for price and convience. Iv'e seen all sorts of stuff in my pawn guitar shop journeys, Oak Ibanez's etc... i think you are thinking of poplar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocket Posted June 18, 2003 Report Share Posted June 18, 2003 I made a body out of pine when I was 13 or 14, and stuck a cheapo neck on it. The thing I remember most is when I strapped it on the first time the neck headed straight for the floor : it was WAY neck heavy. But if it's just for practice, why not. And the Fenders from pine, I think they were the very very first Tele's, called Esquires(??) or maybe before that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbilleaud Posted August 12, 2004 Report Share Posted August 12, 2004 Check this out: http://www.zacharyguitars.com/071199pics.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skibum5545 Posted August 12, 2004 Report Share Posted August 12, 2004 Titebond is an aliphatic resin. It creates a FAR stronger bond, is less susceptible to moisture (after fully cured) less susceptible to vibration (of which a guitar see's lots) and doesn't deteriorate over time. Elmers is fine for grade school projects, but I wouldn't use it on a guitar. Is this true for Elmer's wood glue as well as Elmer's white school glue? I can understand about the white glue, but I was led to believe the wood glue was the same as Titebond I. What gives? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a bicycle made of anarchy Posted August 12, 2004 Report Share Posted August 12, 2004 ick. post ressurection... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truerussian558 Posted August 12, 2004 Report Share Posted August 12, 2004 elmers glue all (yes the white stuff) is PVA (Polyvinyl acetates) which is one of the most popular wood glues and it creates a strong bond. though it might be more diluted then full strength pva, but its still the stuff. my grandpa restored a 17th century knights chair using pva, and the chair is sittable and beign used im not saying that glue all should be used for guitars its just wrong to say its only for elementary school, when it really is quite strong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Jabsco Posted August 12, 2004 Report Share Posted August 12, 2004 I built a few pine guitars and necks, just for practice. I didnt fit them and play them, so i cant tell you about the sound. But if you plan on sanding it, get a ton of paper, because the sap in the pine gets stuck in the grits and wears the paper out real quick. Same with a drum sander, but i just use a wire brush to scrape it off of that, and it works fine. once sanded down and all, pine looks as good as alder (IMO) but, im not sure about finishing and so fourth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SonofaMesa Posted August 13, 2004 Report Share Posted August 13, 2004 Hey all. Just thought Id throw i my .02. First, if you are using wood for a guitar, dont bother with Titebond II and III. II is a little thin and II isnt worth the extra price. II isnt and stronger than I. Secondly, a couple splines would be even better for joining the body. Then again, if you dont want to have to buy any hardwood... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoryNad Posted August 13, 2004 Report Share Posted August 13, 2004 i have a question that is related to this topic so rather than start a new one ill just add it here, lets say i made a body outta pine only to make a mold (real body is gonna be resoglas) would there be any problem in this, i wouldn't have to worry about it shrinking over time because it would only use it for like 24 hours, then it saves me money caus i wouldn't have to spend $50 on some alder just to make a master body for a mold...well any ideas would be great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted August 13, 2004 Report Share Posted August 13, 2004 i have a question that is related to this topic so rather than start a new one ill just add it here, lets say i made a body outta pine only to make a mold (real body is gonna be resoglas) would there be any problem in this, i wouldn't have to worry about it shrinking over time because it would only use it for like 24 hours, then it saves me money caus i wouldn't have to spend $50 on some alder just to make a master body for a mold...well any ideas would be great you are buying your alder in the wrong place if it costs you $50 find a local hardwood store and get it for about $20 but you can use anything you want for a mold i would guess... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tirapop Posted August 13, 2004 Report Share Posted August 13, 2004 You can use insulating foam board and bondo for a buck. I know of a couple guys who are making car bodies, using masonite and sheet rock compound for the buck. Meerkat La Bala Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted August 13, 2004 Report Share Posted August 13, 2004 As to Titebond VS Titebond II, I'd advise you stay away from Titebond II. It is more expensive, and the alterations to the formula which make it water resistant prevent it from setting hard. Users at the MIMF have reported failed joints, and lifting caps/veneers which still have liquid glue in the centre *long* after the reported curing time has passed. Titebond original is widely available and inexpensive, so it's a great choice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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